Cutting soft aluminum bar/tubing II

No.. a bandsaw cuts with the blade moving down if in the vertical mode. If in the horizontal mode, the chips still fall down. If you are cutting smaller tubing, square or round, try a table saw with the same Triple Chip grind blade and a cut-off box.

I use my TS all the time to cut up to 3" tubing. Super accurate, square and a shop vac makes clean up quick and easy.

Going back to the bandsaw vs a chop saw, a well-tuned band saw is much neater (swarf wise) than a chop saw and will/ can cut quite acurrately as well-- IF it is well tuned.

It will NOT be as fast, but it will be a lot quieter.

YMMV...

Steve Koschmann

I agree. However, with the appropriate blade, bandsaws can really move through aluminium. If you try and cut with a blade used for steel, it will cut slowly (almost not at all after getting loaded). Once the proper blade with lots of chip clearance and a very coarse tooth-pitch is installed, the work goes very quickly. I'd choose a chop saw (mitre saw) for production work, but for a bit of work here and there, bandsaws can be very useful (and quiet!)

John, are you using a non-ferrous blade or a TCG? I believe N/F blades are ATB (don't quote me). And I know they feature negative rake such that the blade will not grab your work (either taking the work or you for a ride). Just though I'd mention that as many people just use whatever's on their saw when they want to go through aluminium. Can be dangerous.....

Regards,

Robin

I use a bandsaw on aluminum and haven't had any complaints. I keep my speed down around 100FPM and use an Agressor II blade. I far prefer it over abrasive discs.

--G--

"Robin S." wrote

TCG?

I have two 10" blades. ...40 tooth carbide-tipped (6,000 RPM) ...104 tooth cross cut steel (5,500 RPM)

I use the 104 tooth blade.

ATB?

I understand that "N/F" might mean "nonferrous".

My mitre saw is extremely accurate but throws aluminum chips back at me (and everywhere) when cutting thru aluminum tubing. It throws the chips opposite the saw travel/direction. It does that also when flat aluminum bar is placed up against the backstop. It does that apparently when cutting aluminum at around a 90 angle to the blade.

Thanks in advance.

"Steve Koschmann" wrote

My mitre saw cuts away from me, but the chips fly towards me.

Maybe they bounce off of something.

I have a large box behind the mitre saw. I will stick something (safe as possible) in the area behind the blade/backstop to see about deflecting the aluminum in a better direction.

Thanks.

You need about a 360 - 480 tooth blade. No less than three teeth in contact with work at any time. Your 104 has ONE tooth in contact. Preferably, as close to (greater than) three teeth in contact.

Yes, anybody who knows a bandsaw knows it throws chips straight down.

Does it say _on the box_ that it is for cutting aluminum?

Yours,

Doug Goncz (at aol dot com) Replikon Research, Seven Corners, VA

Doug, that's a rediculous number. I sell miter saw blades and they don't make them like that, and you certainly don't need one (there would be virtually no chip clearence). The three teeth rule doesn't apply to a miter saw blade as it does to a bandsaw blade.

A standard nonferrous blade will work just great. Standard for 10" is about

When I cut aluminium plate on a table saw, I wear a shop coat (sleeves rolled down - woe is me), hearing protection, safety glasses and a face shield. Many people don't go quite as nuts but I appreciate my hearing and I don't appreciate getting absolutely covered in aluminium chips (they're hot when cut at 12,500 SFPM).

I'd say cutting aluminium like that is about the scariest metalcutting operation I've ever performed. Do NOT get distracted and be aware of how the saw is cutting. If it's grabbing, back off the feed. Those sheets were 5/8" thick and I wouldn't want to have them get tossed.

The chips go everywhere but it cuts like stink and is very accurate.

Regards,

Robin

| |I have two 10" blades. |...40 tooth carbide-tipped (6,000 RPM) |...104 tooth cross cut steel (5,500 RPM) | |I use the 104 tooth blade.

I'd try the 40-tooth if you haven't already. Rex in Fort Worth

Well, I figured he was cutting 1" 6061-T6 aluminum tubing with an 0.059 " wall and

_guessed_ at the tooth count.

I'm ignorant, so my assumption that the blade diameter is 12" may be _way_ off.

0.118" / 3 ~= 0.039 ~= 0.033

Circumfrence of 12 inch blade: 36 inches nominal

Now, you don't need a 12 inch blade to cut a 1 inch tube, that is for sure. But to make an angled cut in a 4x4 (poor man's beam) you need something big. So how big is big?

Still ridiculous?

It does't apply to circular work as rigorously as to rectangular work. The cross section change. Getting through the skin with 32 tpi is difficult, awkwawrd, generates fine weldable chips. But then, thta's what a lathe is for.

Oh, 10 inch. Not that far off. Yes, a nonferrous blade will work. So will an unreasonably high speed, available on some saws. Is this a cold-cut saw?

I do. I couldn't stand to lose my ability to enjoy Mozart or Sibelius while I am not cutting.

The last thing I bought at the PX before I lost my elegibility was the trenchcoat. It's in the closet and protects me well indoors and out.

It's all about alignment. Slot to blade, fence to blade, gage to blade. Two parallel, one square.

I've never had a piece grab on me. Melt, yes (plastic).

It is very scary and like you say cuts faster than anything else.

Yours,

Doug Goncz (at aol dot com) Replikon Research, Seven Corners, VA

snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEtxol.net (Rex B) wrote

After a short trial. The 40-tooth blade might increase the risk of pulling the aluminum out of position but it cuts very neatly. So maybe I will use a

Might be useful to have better clamps.

Heh, last night I tried the chop saw on some aluminum - I clamped a cast 5/16" thick aluminum angle to the fence, gave the 12" 24 tooth(!) blade a whorl, and with much hiding behind the blade guard (chips do indeed get everywhere!) as I progressed slowly, I finished, and the cut came out very nice. Interesting finish.

Tim

-- "That's for the courts to decide." - Homer Simpson Website @