NPS thread ( Not NPT ) a nipple and a coupling .
about 1.25 inch . machine this to fit on end of
your hand held electric drill motor .
Machine the coupler to accept loose 3/16" grade 25 balls
just like a BallBearing chucks does . these allow
the coupler to rotate on the nose of drill motor .
Now power the male threaded nipple . turn it with a
Harbor Freight 18VDC cordless ( cut the case off it ,
it gets real small and handy , its only about 1.5" Diam' )
Coupler has a chain sproket , 18VDC cordless has
a smaller #40 chain sprocket .
start drilling , pull trigger on 18VDC cordless to advance
the bit toward the work .
18VDC cordless is on the side of the big drill motor , 18VDC
a tiny chain that drives the coupler , thru a large reduction of
( Coupler upper end attached to
drill motor nose but on loose balls , in a race )
couplers bottom side is threaded to nipple
( nipples bottom is a FOOT against workpiece )
Like a MicroStop countersink , the nipple and coupler lower the
drill motor toward the workpiece
Nothing lighter , more compact .
If i were less busy , id sell these .
I will build airplanes . 400 H.P. takeoff power .
pusher props . twin 70" blades .
3 Yamaha or Honda motorcyle engines , with variable intake cam
at cruise , they make less than 8 H.P. , but outstanding economy .
for the variable intake cam timimng . Atkinson Cycle !
RAM tuning works fine at 7500 RPM , but you must "tune"
the intakes for the reduced flow !
At high HP , you switch in a bigger diam' set of intake tubes .
On takeoff ( 5 minutes ) , they each produce over a
hundred real H.P. ** at good fuel econo , .
yet at cruise fuel economy is good , intake valves are retarded
closing to make much lower effective compression ratio
for the Atkison cycle ,
Some Engineers wrongly say , aircraft engines need to run
slow to produce HP , at good economy .
But Japaneese created a light weight motor , capable of
over 100 H.P. at much lower fuel consumption , than
any of the much larger competitors , and with
even better economy , at cruise !
You cant match it .. Not Continental , Not Lycoming ,
not Subaru , Not Bombadier . Not even
ZOCHE ! 8 cylinder diesel that has amazing power
to wt and costs more than a new 1 Ton Chevy P.U. !
Perfect Diesel ! Germany ! But costs too much .
If you build airframes with 2024T3 and rivets , it would take
But if you use old bicycle technology . Tubes brazed into lugs .
You can inexpensively build an airframe in 10% of the time
with NO precise measurements nor blueprints .
You can make the lugs as you go , cut the tubes , braze
tubes in progressively ..
But once a lug is ready to braze , you cant add anything
to the lug , except by more brazing ( which is strong , but
a kludge )
Airframe is "consistant' from motor mounts , to landing gear .
Its all the same construction . Unlike sheet aluminum
where you need to :
...bring the loads to a stress point : the
landing gear wheels and motor mounts .
If you put too much steel in the lugs , grind it off , fair it
with a 1/4" Die Grinder ! until it looks right .
DIY lugs are hammered from 1/8" steel plate and formed and
MIG'ed and hammered again , til they look right .
MIG tiny lugs and flanges on top , for attaching the cheap aluminum
fairing pieces .
sand down and polish the lugs , so they're
photo graphable , the lathe them in a tiny 7 by 10 lathe
with face plate , to bore out the holes , perfect fit
for the 1.5" steel tude you CRS ( cold rolled yourself to 100kips )
Wings fold forward . Motors can add traction to landing gear
so you can get in the 10 O'Clock news .
Landing gear has 4 main wheels ( free , for cross wind landing )
2 smaller , aft to keep props from digging up the runway .
Props blades are DIY alum , cold forged ( like the inexpensive
crank arms on your mountain bike )
I defy you to build a lighter , stronger , lower cost , in less
cargo plane that lifts 3000 lbs of payload ..
And you can kit it !
try kitting a alum' skinned airplane . Thats why they sell
Carbon-Fiber airframes !
Engines have allways been the big cost ...
engines are Nikasil plated ( not iron liners ),
never need over pistons/rings ...
BTW STOP using 10-30 wt oil w/ detergent !!
I dont want a plastic monomer to burn and fail in my engine ..
I want the acids and sludge to NOT circulate around my motor .
I dont want to emulsify anything ....
I want the NON-oil to separate and fall to the bottom .
I DONT want a clean shiny bottom surface on my oil pan !