Drywall joint question

I have a detached garage that is 30x30 with 10 foot ceiligns that was
just built. The outside is metal and standard stud walls in the inside
with 2 feet on center studs for the most part.
I am debating drying to drywall the walls myself. I bought a drywall
book and have been reading it.
It suggested in a garage with tall ceilings to use drywall installed
vertically to eliminate butt seams which I understand.
However, there is a section in the book that stated in a garage there
is, "clearly no need to do three coats of compound in the tapered
edges of the drywall". Meaning, really the only coat of drywall mud
needed is the tape embedding coat.
Will it produce aceptable results using self adhesive mesh tape on the
joints, then one coat of 6 inch wide or so mud to cover the tape? I
know the tapered part of the drywall is probably wider than this. Will
you be able to tell once it is painted? I plan to prime with flat
white ceiling paint then to top coat with a semi gloss. (I think white
also right now but not 100% sure).
Reply to
Loading thread data ...
In case you don't know this - the mesh tape is used with *setting* compound & paper tape with *drying* compound. The setting compound is the powder that you mix with water, the drying compound is the "pre-mixed".
Reply to
Bob Engelhardt
Sure. But it depends on what you'll accept.
Self-adhesive mesh tape is a time-saver, and that's a good application for it. I don't use it on walls in the house because it's thick and it's not easy to get a really flat result. I've replaced about half of the walls in my house and I use a method that's used in high-priced custom homes, taught to me by a real craftsman: two layers of 3/8" drywall (the first horizontal, the second vertical; construction adhesive in between); screws (never nails; they'll pop up after a year or two if your studs are green and they're hard to drive straight if your studs are over 80 years old, like mine); and then paper tape and five coats of mud. The first is the embedding coat; the second is done with an 8-inch curved knife; the third is with an 11-inch straight knife (it just levels the previous coat); the fourth is with a 14-inch curved knife; and the fifth is two passes, one on each side, with the 11-inch straight knife, to feather the seam into invisibility. I use wet "sanding" with damp burlap on a wooden block after each of the first two coats. DON'T let the paper on the drywall get wet. After that, it's dry sanding with 100-grit paper and a vacuum attachment I have for my wet vac, which runs the air through a bucket of water before running into the vac itself.
That's the extreme. Even a tyro can do a perfect-looking job with that. For a garage, I'd use the adhesive tape, an embedding pass with the 6-inch knife; then one more pass, probably with the 8-inch curved blade. If you're good with the 8-inch knife you won't have to sand afterwards; just sand off the pips and nibs. (Nobody can use a 14-inch knife without having to sand.) It won't be perfect but it will look pretty good.
Reply to
Ed Huntress
I really don't like the mesh tape, I always wind up with cracks later. And The first coat does all the structural stuff so that is all you NEED but I don't think you will be satisfied with a single coat job, it's just too cruddy looking. I've seen pros who can do this in one pass but mere mortals are in this class.
My process: -paper tape -bed the tape with a somewhat sloppy/wet SETTING compound (I use Durabond 90 or Durabond 60 if I'm in a hurry) Use a 6" or 8" blade to knock all the high points off, it's ok if a tape edge shows occasionally. -use a blade to knock off bumps and ridges, maybe a sanding block for the big oops spots. (should not need to sand more than 5%) -2nd coat with Sheetrock (brand) Plus 3 (This stuff goes on nice, doesn't shrink, sands reasonably) -let dry overnight, knock off and/or sand the bigger bumps. -very thin coat of Sheetrock brand Topping compound -sand lightly
Coats #2 and 3 don't take long. And, if you do them right, minimal sanding.
stryped wrote:
Reply to
Break out the hopper gun, and orange peel the whole thing. Nobody will see any imperfections.
Reply to
Bob La Londe
Ha! Yes, there's that approach, too.
Reply to
Ed Huntress
I DO like the mesh tape and have never had it tear or crack - the way paper does in extreme cases. Perhaps it is a little thicker and takes a slightly wider taper in the mud. So much simpler to put up! As for 'mud' Home depot has two kinds: Premixed in a 5 gal bucket or the powder in $7-$8 sacks (mix with water). It says Set 5 or Set 90 - which means it will set and be partially dry in either 5 or 90 minutes. The strength after 24 hours is exactly the same. I like the Set 90 because it gives me time to take a break etc. Good luck and 5/8" nailed on 24" studs is just fine - especially for a garage. 1/2" is easier to handle and is ok for 16" on center studs.
Reply to
The paper tape works well on new construction. A couple passes as someone else said. Check with the city as to the thickness you need. They may require 5/8" in a garage. Fire block to the rest of the house. Seems odd, even after all these years, as you can build a garage with exposed studs. Then buy a texture gun. They are about what it cost to rent. I think $55 at Home Depot / Lowes. Spray a texture of choice. I like orange peel and after you see it flash, change color to drier state, lightly knock down the tops of the dots.
Reply to
Bill McKee
Does the orange peel requie taping? How does it look?
Reply to
Does the orange peel requie taping? How does it look?
You tape and spackle first, then apply the texture. It looks like heavy orange peel. The effect can be varied depending on pressure and the selector on the gun.
Reply to
Practice on one joint and see how you do. There is a lot of skill involved in this.
Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Reply to
Why drywall? I would HIGHLY recommend OSB or ply. Drywall is just WAY too easily damaged by impact or water.
Reply to
You are right - osb is the way to go. Standard 3/8 or half inch sheets only about $8 a sheet - half of ply and is definitely much stronger. It can be painted with a roller. (I use it for an outdoor fence)
Reply to
But it is not fire reisitant and I dont think it takes paint very well from what I have heard.
Reply to
stryped fired this volley in news:9675e876-f0aa- snipped-for-privacy@u7g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:
It can be painted with a sodium silicate fire-retardant, then smoothed and textured with drywall mud, just like any other wall.
The nice thing about a plywood or osb wall is that you have a built-in "nailer" over all surfaces. It makes hanging heavy things worlds easier.
When I remodeled our kitchen, we certainly wanted drywall, because we wanted a "slick" finish on any un-papered walls, and wallpaper everywhere else. But before applying the rock, I covered all the walls with 5/8" plywood. It made hanging cabinets, trim, and accessories a breeze.
Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
Taping is required by code (fire),
Reply to
Harold & Susan Vordos

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.