Drywall joint question

stryped wrote: ...

In case you don't know this - the mesh tape is used with *setting* compound & paper tape with *drying* compound. The setting compound is the powder that you mix with water, the drying compound is the "pre-mixed".

Bob

Sure. But it depends on what you'll accept.

Yes.

Self-adhesive mesh tape is a time-saver, and that's a good application for it. I don't use it on walls in the house because it's thick and it's not easy to get a really flat result. I've replaced about half of the walls in my house and I use a method that's used in high-priced custom homes, taught to me by a real craftsman: two layers of 3/8" drywall (the first horizontal, the second vertical; construction adhesive in between); screws (never nails; they'll pop up after a year or two if your studs are green and they're hard to drive straight if your studs are over 80 years old, like mine); and then paper tape and five coats of mud. The first is the embedding coat; the second is done with an 8-inch curved knife; the third is with an 11-inch straight knife (it just levels the previous coat); the fourth is with a

14-inch curved knife; and the fifth is two passes, one on each side, with the 11-inch straight knife, to feather the seam into invisibility. I use wet "sanding" with damp burlap on a wooden block after each of the first two coats. DON'T let the paper on the drywall get wet. After that, it's dry sanding with 100-grit paper and a vacuum attachment I have for my wet vac, which runs the air through a bucket of water before running into the vac itself.

That's the extreme. Even a tyro can do a perfect-looking job with that. For a garage, I'd use the adhesive tape, an embedding pass with the 6-inch knife; then one more pass, probably with the 8-inch curved blade. If you're good with the 8-inch knife you won't have to sand afterwards; just sand off the pips and nibs. (Nobody can use a 14-inch knife without having to sand.) It won't be perfect but it will look pretty good.

I really don't like the mesh tape, I always wind up with cracks later. And The first coat does all the structural stuff so that is all you NEED but I don't think you will be satisfied with a single coat job, it's just too cruddy looking. I've seen pros who can do this in one pass but mere mortals are in this class.

My process:

-paper tape

-bed the tape with a somewhat sloppy/wet SETTING compound (I use Durabond 90 or Durabond 60 if I'm in a hurry) Use a 6" or 8" blade to knock all the high points off, it's ok if a tape edge shows occasionally.

-use a blade to knock off bumps and ridges, maybe a sanding block for the big oops spots. (should not need to sand more than 5%)

-2nd coat with Sheetrock (brand) Plus 3 (This stuff goes on nice, doesn't shrink, sands reasonably)

-let dry overnight, knock off and/or sand the bigger bumps.

-very thin coat of Sheetrock brand Topping compound

-sand lightly

Coats #2 and 3 d> I have a detached garage that is 30x30 with 10 foot ceiligns that was

Break out the hopper gun, and orange peel the whole thing. Nobody will see any imperfections.

Ha! Yes, there's that approach, too.

I DO like the mesh tape and have never had it tear or crack - the way paper does in extreme cases. Perhaps it is a little thicker and takes a slightly wider taper in the mud. So much simpler to put up! As for 'mud' Home depot has two kinds: Premixed in a 5 gal bucket or the powder in $7-$8 sacks (mix with water). It says Set 5 or Set 90 - which means it will set and be partially dry in either 5 or 90 minutes. The strength after 24 hours is exactly the same. I like the Set 90 because it gives me time to take a break etc. Good luck and 5/8" nailed on 24" studs is just fine - especially for a garage. 1/2" is easier to handle and is ok for 16" on center studs.

The paper tape works well on new construction. A couple passes as someone else said. Check with the city as to the thickness you need. They may require 5/8" in a garage. Fire block to the rest of the house. Seems odd, even after all these years, as you can build a garage with exposed studs. Then buy a texture gun. They are about what it cost to rent. I think $55 at Home Depot / Lowes. Spray a texture of choice. I like orange peel and after you see it flash, change color to drier state, lightly knock down the tops of the dots.

:

Does the orange peel requie taping? How does it look?

Does the orange peel requie taping? How does it look?

You tape and spackle first, then apply the texture. It looks like heavy orange peel. The effect can be varied depending on pressure and the selector on the gun.

Practice on one joint and see how you do. There is a lot of skill involved in this.

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Why drywall? I would HIGHLY recommend OSB or ply. Drywall is just WAY too easily damaged by impact or water.

.

But it is not fire reisitant and I dont think it takes paint very well from what I have heard.

stryped fired this volley in news:9675e876-f0aa- snipped-for-privacy@u7g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:

It can be painted with a sodium silicate fire-retardant, then smoothed and textured with drywall mud, just like any other wall.

The nice thing about a plywood or osb wall is that you have a built-in "nailer" over all surfaces. It makes hanging heavy things worlds easier.

When I remodeled our kitchen, we certainly wanted drywall, because we wanted a "slick" finish on any un-papered walls, and wallpaper everywhere else. But before applying the rock, I covered all the walls with 5/8" plywood. It made hanging cabinets, trim, and accessories a breeze.

LLoyd

Taping is required by code (fire),

Harold