There's alot to learn about grinding metals, and I have only a few
bench grinders, all long ago dedicated to their limited tasks. Can
anyone help me with a long-standing dream?
I would like a bench grinder with easily changed wheels, wheels that
centered easily and 'perfectly', as would a lathe faceplate or live
center. Then I could buy different wheels and try them when the grey
wheel doesn't work, for example on Stellite or aluminum. Or might a
softer wheel not burn this HSS?
When I have change wheels on the normal 1/2 " shaft grinder, the
centering is so poor that clouds of grit have to be dressed off with a
diamond stick. No fun. I even have a grinder with an untrue shaft;
the wheel has to be 'untrued' to run true.
I have seen 1-1/4 i.d. wheels set up with a taper-centered steel hub,
not real different from a volkswagen rear brake drum. It looked like
these grinding wheels went onto surface grinders, where the operator
would have a similar desire as my own.
So I thought of getting a head assembly from a dead surface grinder,
but all such grinders at the machinery place were 3 phase. A look in
MSC showed the same - all 3 phase.
I even have what appears to be a balancing shaft, as mentioned in MSC,
for a surface grinder. Its 4-1/2" long. Its tapered portion
measure/calculates to 2.994" of diameter per 12" of length. Probably
3" per foot, but not the 3-1/2" per foot mentioned in Machinerys for
"Steep Machine Tapers". Is this taper of 3" per foot a standard? Its
o.d. at the large end of the tapered portion is just about exactly
I would even spring for a new and quality machine with
angle-generating tables and extended housings, perhaps a reversing
switch, if this repeatable mounting feature was available. Even a
super nasty wire wheel could be in the bag of tricks, where that wheel
would never be considered for everyday use. I guess my dream machine
would need a spindle stop with extracting nut or drift-pin equivalent
to get the taper unstuck.
How long would people put up with an automobile that required mounting
the rubber tires directly to a slot on the outside of the hubs? Any
settings made to the tires, like balance or being aired up, would have
to be destroyed for every tire change. No, we have separate metal
devices with a tapered nut centering system to easily make changes,
like to the spare, or to the winter tires. Have I missed something in
the world of grinders?
There is a world of dazzling grinding wheel types waiting for
sampling, but this wheel-changing issue has me stuck.
BTW, is this the address of the FAQ's?
Appriciate all your past postings on metal stuff.
- posted 17 years ago