hammer heads (claw type)

Does anyone Know how the claws are sharpened on a claw hammer?
The heads apear to be a forging with some machining and grinding
done on them. The nail pulling claws have to have sharp edges
and when they get a little dull won't grab the nail. I would
like to re-sharpen them but can't picture any sort of grinder
to do it. Ideas?
...lew...
Reply to
lew hartswick
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lew hartswick wrote in news:Oj2ve.11061$pa3.6333 @newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net:
Ground from the back-side (heel) The V is forged-in. The tips are sometimes ground from the top-side to match (knife-edge)
Reply to
Anthony
The claws, and the rest of the head, these days is done automagically with CNC grinders. I saw video of Stanley's plant, it's pretty fun stuff. They also have a laser etch for printing.
If you want advice on sharpening it, just...sharpen it...
Tim
-- "California is the breakfast state: fruits, nuts and flakes." Website:
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Reply to
Tim Williams
Kinda on topic... I clamp new claw hammers in the vice and file the tapered ends of the claws 'even'. I also break the sharp edges off the outside claw edges. Makes them slide into smaller gaps and the like so much nicer. They don't have to be, and shouldn't be very sharp or thin.
Same deal with flat bars and the like.
I rarely pull nails anymore but the few times over the years I've run into Lew's dull pulling edge problem, I've just returned the hammers to Sears for a Craftsman warranty replacement. Bet I'm on 7th or 8th since the early 70's now. (Not all were dull pulling edges, a few busted handles, and a broken claw from a high drop also come to mind)
Erik
Reply to
Erik
On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 01:20:46 GMT, the opaque lew hartswick spake:
A Stanley production line was shown on a History Channel episode about tools and they used bench belt sanders for that, 2-4". It's fairly soft steel.
If you're smart, you'll buy and use a separate nail puller for that purpose.
P.S: Tired of that Crapsman drill press yet? I still want it. ;)
----- = Dain Bramaged...but having lots of fun! =
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Reply to
Larry Jaques
Since the claw hammer - of many shapes - from tight curved claws to almost flat ones (framers) - they are ground in an arc across the top. Modified or post sale grinding should be local on the outside of the claws.
Some claws have a tack claw inside of one claw.
Likely the best concept is a very local grind. That keeps the hammer in shape for a much longer time.
Martin
Reply to
lionslair at consolidated dot

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