Holes in steel studs?

I have been struggling cutting holes in steel studs (actually in the top plate). My first attempt, using a hole saw, burned up the hole saw, and took forever. My second attempt, using a 1 inch standard drill bit, left the hole too small and nowhere near round.

In both cases, I ended up using a hammer and dolly to flatten out the sheet metal so that I could put a grommet in the hole. Not fun to be struggling drilling over your head.

Got to be a better way. Luckily I may not need to drill any more, but not sure. Do I need to buy a punch?

I think that these steel top plates are probably around 22 ga galvanized steel.

Richard

Reply to
Richard Ferguson
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Uni-bit. It's those weird cone shaped step drill dammits. Should work just fine on 22 ga.

Reply to
Bill Marrs

Ditto, though a uni-bit that goes up to 1" will be expensive. A good hole saw (Lenox, Sandvik, Starret) will work fine for a couple holes, but at some relatively small number of holes the uni-bit will start to look like a bargain. Be careful, running too fast will trash either the hole saw or the uni-bit.

Ned Simmons

Reply to
Ned Simmons

Uhh.. Studs usually means a long threaded shaft (like a bolt)...

But If you really are doing 1 inch holes in 22 ga galvie.. you need a Greenlee punch...

Go here

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click on Holemaking....

--.- Dave

Reply to
Dave August

Steel Frame construction studs.

As in a wall. :-) 2x4, 2x6, that kinda thing. :-)

See if the outfit that sold the studs has a punch that they rent out.

About 6 seconds per hole and no muckin' around!

Cheers Trevor Jones

Reply to
Trevor Jones

Punches are the way the pros make the holes. But punches are expensive. If you only needed a few holes a hole saw works, but they are annoying. (As you have discovered) A cheap way that is less annoying is with a fly cutter. by having a single point do the work it requires less pushing. The downside is that using one of these with a hand held drill is tricky as if you are not very careful they will grab. Using a drill motor with a lot of torque and standing on a ladder can have obvious consequences. I would use my rechargable 3/8 drill and take it easy especially when I was about to cut through.

A large twist drill is the worst choice.

Another way would be to drill a bunch of little holes in a circle, knock out the slug and file the hole to size. I have done this with a dremel and a mounted stone.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

a good bi-metal hole saw cuts through steel beautifully, even thin stuff like 22 ga - but the cheap harbor freight units just spin and burn

Reply to
William Noble

Reply to
kfvorwerk

The _right_ way is with a punch, but they're costy. The other ways are: a very fine-toothed recip saw, and a nibbler.

Change "recip" to "saber" or (incorrectly) "jig" for the average tool-owner.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Sounds like you need a Greenlee stud punch:

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Buy one on eBay, use it and then sell it on eBay. You'll get most, if not all of your money back.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall

DUH!!!...

Forest and trees kinda thing... :-)

--.- Dave

Reply to
Dave August

Reply to
c.henry

Yep------that's the key to success in this case. Carbon steel hole saws won't stand up to the punishment, dying from heat almost instantly. A HSS hole saw should work fine and yield acceptable results. You generally have to deburr the hole once drilled, and it tends to be somewhat oversized. .

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

Reply to
RichD

Haven't seen anybody mention annular cutters yet. Google Hougen and Jancy for info. They make a short series for sheet metal that works great.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Marrs

If metal substitute for a 2x4, I'd go with a drill bit and greenlee punch.

Wes S

Reply to
clutch

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