How to remove keyless chuck

Inspired by Bob Engelhardts(sp?) recent posting on his $9 angle
grinder, thought I would ask this one of the group.....
El Cheapo cordless drills usually get discarded when the (you know
from where) battery packs die. I want to recycle the low voltage DC
motor (and slipping clutch) as an X-axis feed motor for my mini-mill.
I know there is a reverse thread screw down the middle, got that out -
but removing the chuck itself seems impossible (without using an angle
grinder) (The angle grinder approach leaves you with a short stub that
is difficult to fit an extension shaft/slip coupling to...)
Theres no chuck lock pin as on a "real" drill, at least not on the
ones I have been able to acquire.
So - how is it done? - tried holding the chuck tight in a vise, but
cant grip it anywhere on the rest of the thing to break the joint.
Putting an Allen key in the chuck and then applying the precision
adjusting tool (about a 5lb one) wont do it either, it just rotates
the lot. Not concerned about trashing the chuck, just want the motor/
gearbox/clutch assembly. Not even sure if its screwed on or just a
press fit - running out of ones to experiment on .. Was inspired by
formatting link
which was on
here yonks ago...
Andrew VK3BFA.
Reply to
Andrew VK3BFA
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Last one I took off had a small hex socket head CSK screw accessed via the business end of the chuck (open it right up and have a look inside). After removal the chuck could then be unscrewed from the shaft. Yours may or may not be the same.
I've used the motor / chuck in conjunction with an old drawer slide to make a fast little tapping machine. Added a centre off changeover toggle switch to allow quick fwd / stop / reverse control.
Reply to
Nik Rim
I've removed quite a few chucks from hand drills. They have all been threaded on, with a keeper screw.
The keeper is left handed, as you know, but the chuck is right handed. They have all come off with the hex-key-in-the-jaws,hit-with-hammer technique. A few have been quite stubborn, but with the drill on a solid surface & a smart whack, they have all come off. I don't think that I've ever had to use anything bigger that a 16 oz hammer.
My intuition is that a smaller hammer, moving faster, would work better than a bigger, slower, hammer.
HTH, Bob
Reply to
Bob Engelhardt
It's screwed on. That's why the lefthand screw was in the center (it's a reversing drill/driver, the center screw keeps it from loosening). I had the same problem with a pneumatic drill (real nice one, Boeing surplus), had to disassemble the gear housing and use wood blocks and a vise to grab the pinion gear.
You can also try heat (poke a soldering iron down the bore of the chuck) and penetrating oil.
Try to retain the chuck; one of these on a handle is a nice pin vise, and the possibilities don't end there. Your shaft will be 3/8"-24 threaded if you get it off; the chuck can mate that thread to any shaft from 1/16 to 3/8"...
Reply to
on most hand drills that are reversible, the chuck has RH threads, there is a LH threaded screw inside to hold it in place during reversing - you've gotten that screw out, so next step, take a large allen wrench (L shaped), grab it tightly in the chuck and smack it sharply with a hammer to break the chuck free
Reply to
Bill Noble

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