How do I remove the chuck on my Colchester Master /Clausing 13"

Ok I'm stuck, I want to remove the chuck from my lathe,a Colchester
Master Mk 2, Clausing 80000? this has the American taper L0 secured by
a large threaded collar.
I've read the manual, no help, searched the groups, nope.
I don't want to break anything so I thought I'd ask.
People I've spoken to have said use the large c spanner (got that) and
shock the collar loose, but the spindle & chuck just turn, the collar
doesn't loosen. Tried pieces of wood to chock the chuck, bars in chuck,
you name it.
I don't want to put the lahte in gear and heave 'cos it might break the
gear etc.
Ideas ?
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My clausing lathe has a special lever for fixating the spindle. It is behind the chuck.
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had a quick look, nope just a bolt to attach the collet chuck (lever op)
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I have a Colchester Master Mk2, I just put it in lowest gear and that locks the spindle well enough to undo it and/or tighten it. If you are hitting it hard enought o break a gear then that chuck was not put on by a human and/or it's been there since the beginning of time and is siezed somehow.
BTW loweres is the top selectors together in the middle and the selector on the front of the headstock towards the tail.
TTYL, Jeff
shedfull wrote:
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Jeff Williams
You should be able to use the lowest gear with no fear, but if you're concerned, block the chuck with a 2 x 4 end to end, from one of the jaws to the bed, with the machine in the lowest gear, then knock the spanner with a *soft* (I recommend a Nupla, they're the best there is) hammer. As I recall, they're a right hand thread (it's been over 40 years since I last changed a chuck on an L type mount), so you want to turn the top of the collar towards the rear of the machine.
Let us know!
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Harold and Susan Vordos
that chuck was not put on by
I think it was, it has and it is, so I'll use some penetrating stuff
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Place both gear handles (top of the lathe) in the lowest speed postion. (knobs closest to each other). If your lathe was equpped with foot brake, stand on it.
Place spanner on collar and rap firmly with shop hammer in a downward direction. When collar turns, place a small piece of plywood across the ways to protect them, and then unscrew the collar while holding the chuck, which will suddenly become very heavy (hence the plywood if you drop it).
Clean out taper well with air or brush before putting the chuck back on.
It doesnt need a rap with a hammer on the spanner when reinstalling, unless you are doing a great deal of interupted cut work,
Gunner, Clausing/Cochester 13x16 (US designation)
Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli
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Thanks to all who replied,
That chuck was, uh m TIGHT
Its off now, got the taper cleaned up and sorted the gap piece out. I think that chuck hadn't been off for 20 years, (could explain the unused F/plate, catch plate and little used 4 jaw ?) The 3 jaw sc chuck was a mile out, I was thinking of swappng it for the 4 jaw independant I have and investigating the 3 jaw.
Many thanks again.
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Before you scrap that 3-jaw, take it apart and clean it meticulously and then check the scroll's bore for looseness. I recently read an article that claimed that scrolls wear in their central bore, and that the wear is usually uniform, and that this wear can be taken up by one shim wrapped around the ID of the scroll's bore. Clean it, blow it out, check the scroll play as I described, and *then* measure the eccentricity. I had a 10" 3-jaw that went from .020" to .004" by cleaning and shimming.
shedfull wrote:
Reply to
Grant Erwin
Like Grant said, clean. I got my lathe from Dad and after his last move, I don't think he was thinking. The chuck was full of metal and as he tipped it over to thread it on, swarf fell into the threads.
When I got it - it didn't look right and didn't run right. Closer looking the chuck didn't match the centering and back plate.
I took it off and cleaned out a lot of material and some of it compressed. Once clean, it threaded on easily by hand, fit the centering ring and fit flat on the backplate.
It might be as little as that or a little rust in one thread...
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lionslair at consolidated dot
Which way are you moving the wrench? It helps to realize that the male thread is on the chuck backplate, and the female collar thread is free to rotate around the spindle, but is captive on the spindle.
So -- the handle of the hook or pin spanner wrench, if pointing up from the collar, should be move towards the back of the lathe to loosen, the direction which would *tighten* a chuck on a threaded spindle. (At least, based on my L-00 on a Clausing spindle.
Good Luck, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
What did you do?
"Veterans, and anyone sensible, take cover when there's incoming. A cloud of testosterone makes a piss poor flack shield."
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Ok, to get that chuck off I used bottom gear and chocked the chuck, tight, to the bed,
I also used some plus gas penetrating stuff, I'll aslo admit to using a 2'6" tube over the c spanner (over half of this was on the spanner)
The problem was rust,just on the last thread of the locking ring. The taper and key are fine so I'll strip and service the 3 jaw and try it again.
While the chuck was off I sorted the gap piece out as well.
not yet done the 3 jaw as I'm busy with work and I've still to build the rotary phase converter to run this lathe and my Elliot 10" shaper.
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