KO Lee Tool & Cutter Grinder question


I have a model 900 with the arbor sticking out both sides of the
motor. A former owner installed some sort of home made spindle on the
right hand arbor and I can't get it unscrewed. The left side arbor is
open and has right hand threads. I want to confirm that the right
hand arbor is also has right handed threads, othewise I've been trying
to tighten the accessory spindle on the right side.
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
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I would expect it to be the opposite handedness so the acceleration of the motor does not loosen the nut.
But I have no personal experience with a K.O. Lee.
Can you see enough of the threads (perhaps with a magnifier) to be sure what direction it goes -- or are the threads totally covered by the adaptor?
Good Luck, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
Unfortunately, I can't see the threads on the right end. I'm suspecting that they're right hand threads since the left hand side where you normally expect to have left hand threads is right handed. The motor is reversible and the shafts have a keyway with a washer with a tooth in it to keep it from rotating.
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
My KO Lee 300 has opposite threads on each side.
Gunner
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch
Reply to
Gunner Asch
[ ... ]
O.K. That makes right-hand threads pretty likely.
How much mass does the adaptor have? Is it possible that someone started with it several turns loose on the spindle and turned on the motor? That could rather firmly wedge it in place.
Enjoy, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
I have no idea. The mass isn't that great, but I imagine turning on the motor would indeed wedge it pretty tightly. It's also possible that the previous owner Loc-tited the adapter on.
My problem at the moment is getting something that will grab the 2" dia. flange on each end of the spindle without slipping. (the adapter also has that 2" dia flange) I tried cutting a 2" hole in a 2x4 and clamping one of those on each end like two wrenches, but the 2x4's slip. I'm temporarily "gluing" the 2x4's on with rosin and alcohol and hope that that grabs enough that I can put some torque on the adapter.
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:51:03 -0700, Gunner Asch
Does it have a keyway on the arbor like the Model 900?
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
(pssst.... you didnt hear this from me..I repair machinery...but if you take one wheel off..you can put a pipe wrench on the shaft and it will hold pretty good while you struggle with the other nut)
I dont know what to tell you buddy.
Gunner
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch
Reply to
Gunner Asch
No. If it has a keyway..then there has to be some sort of a nut to hold the adaptor that uses the key.
Sounds like you need The TOOL. WHich on many surface grinders etc etc..is a pin spanner or clutch spanner that holds the adapter while you break the nut off.
Gunner
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch
Reply to
Gunner Asch
I don't know if you were pulling my leg or not. I tried a file on them to see if they were hardened. If they were, a pipe wrench would be safe, but they're soft, so I'm trying to hold them without marring the spindle's flanges. The rosin "glue" didn't work to make the 2x4 "wrenches" tight enough.
Maybe the side with the adapter is loc-tited on. How hot do you have to heat lock tite to loosen it? Can you do it with a heat gun or must you use a torch? Do you have to turn it hot because the loc-tite hardens again when it cools, or can you wait till the metal's cool enough to handle?
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
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I think I need to upload some pix. I don't think I'm describing it well enough for you to envision it I'll post a link when I have them up.
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
I've come to the conclusion I'm going to need a special tool too - that pin spanner you mentioned. Not sure how to lock the right side so that the flange can be unscrewed from the spindle. I ASSume it's screwed on and not pressed on, and I don't know if either or both are right hand threads or left hand threads. I was hoping someone here might have replaced the bearings on one of these critters and would know how to get the flanges off.
I uploaded the photos.
Here's an overview of the head I'm talking about. The head is a model B923A. I'm not sure why, but the right hand flange is intentionally about 1.5" farther from the motor than the left side. The former owner put that brass collar on and it doesn't fit the banjo for the wheel guards and I want to remove that - preferably without cutting it off.
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Here's a closeup of the right side showing the two holes in the face of the flange. The circumference of the flange looks rough, but that's the rosin I had wetted with alcohol to temporarily "glue" it to the wood. The metal is still smooth and unmarred.
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Here's what I meant by trying to use 2x4's as wrenches. Even with rosin on the circumference of the flanges, I couldn't get the wood to grip tight enough to unscrew the flanges.
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The flanges are soft, so I hated to mar the circumference with a pipe wrench. I had tried putting a band clamp / hose clamp on the outer surfaces and then gripping the circumference with pipe wrenches, but no go. The pipe wrenches on hose clamps was actually the first thing I tried before going to the wooden wrenches, but I hadn't thought to hit the flange with Kroil before I did that, so it might be worth a second try that way.
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
[ ... ]
From my experience -- you have to turn it hot.
Yes, a heat gun is satisfactory.
Assuming that you are *sure* which direction it turns, apply torque while heating, and it will start moving smoothly when it gets hot enough.
As for those split 2-4s -- can you make some split aluminum ones instead -- cross drill through the split, and tap the far side so you can clamp it firmly with a bolt.
I suspect that when it cools back down it will not be as strong as it was, but still be difficult to move depending on just how heavy a version of LocTite it is.
Good Luck, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
I have KO Lee 300 with the same or close to the same head on it.
When I got it..both flanges had pipe wrench marks.
Sometimes..you do what you gotta do, carefully and keep a file handy for afterwards. But the pin spanner is something you really need, no matter what. Fairly easy to make btw..just use something better than nails for hte pins. Dowel pins are good
Gunner
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch
Reply to
Gunner Asch
Parts manuals for the K.O. Lee, B923 Motor Assembly, part No. B923A, are available for downloading on the Web... Try
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one source.
I believe that the part you are attempting to remove is called a "Wheel Flange" and the outer washer, which you do not show, is called a "Keyed Wheel Flange". Looking at several other K.O. Lee grinders this use of a keyed outer wheel flange appears to be common with these machines.
Cheers,
John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail)
Reply to
J. D. Slocomb
I realize this is an old thread but, did you ever get the flanges off the motor shaft/spindle?. I am facing the same problem. Thanks, Bob
Reply to
rwilliams
I realize this is an old thread but, did you ever get the flanges off the motor shaft/spindle?. I am facing the same problem. Thanks, Bob
Reply to
rwilliams

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