I have a Clausing 6913 lathe and have a Enco turret that was designed
for this very lathe.
The turret has tool holes that hold 1.5" round tool holders, using
cams.
The question that I have is, what sort of tooling goes there? Am I
supposed to just make them, with MT3 holes or some such? And how does
one make MT3 holes, with proper reamers?
I am looking for some words of wisdom, as I have never used any
turrets.
i
Naww a couple of morse sleeves in the #2 and #3 size that have 1-1/2 in
straight shanks is robably all you will ever need, readily available on ebay
so there's no need to make them yourself.
Typically one would reserve #1 station for a stock stop, just a simple 1-1/2
dia rod is all that's needed there........
--After that I would suggest 2 or 3 jacobs chucks or if you already have
some 1-1/2 shank extension collet holders then use them instead...and a
criterion boring head pretty is nice to have...and several straight reducing
holders which will allow you to rough using endmills and to quickly turn ID
chamfers etc.
There are a bunch of tools linked from this page for turret lathes.
http://www.boyar-schultzsmt.com/burnishing_tools.htm
Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
The sort of tooling likely to be used in a turret of this sort
(which is a bit larger than mine which has 1" diameter tool holders) is:
1) Roller box tool -- turns down a large amount in a single pass.
Special ground HSS or carbide bit which cuts on the end, instead
of the side. Two rollers which act as a travelling steady rest
precisely right for that tool.
Example: eBay # 310283537557
2) Drill chuck on straight shank arbor. (normal chucks, just get
the right size arbor.
3) Floating reamer holder (self aligns).
Expensive eBay example: # 230634528945
4) Geometric style (or other brand) die head -- replaceable
chasers for specific threads -- in sets of four. Feeds onto the
end of the spinning workpiece, cutting threads, then when the
turret reaches its stop, it feeds a little more releasing a dog
clutch, and the chasers retract radially from the workpiece,
allowing you to retract it while the workpiece is still
spinning.
Example: eBay # 130507912832
5) Releasing tap holder -- holds tap until the turret reaches
its preset stop for that station, then pulls a little farther
releasing a dog clutch and letting the tap spin freely in the
holder until the lathe spindle is reversed to back the tap out.
(For large holes, there are Geometric taps similar to the dies
except that the chasers retract inward.
Example: eBay # 380337848241
6) T style knurling tool (no examples on eBay at the moment.
Holds two knurling rollers at 180 degree separation, feeds on
from end of workpiece. Straight knurls can produce diamond or
parallel spiral by turning the shanks in which the knurls are
mounted.
7) Various things which hold multiple turning tools at once to
turn several size steps in a single feed. (Usually finish cuts
on castings, I think.)
8 -- ?) Things which I have forgotten, or never knew about.
?++) Use your imagination for more tooling.
Tools with smaller shanks can be adapted at the cost of a bit of
metal stock. I've seen sleeves split so they will clamp down firmly
when the cam grips.
One worthwhile thing is a combination workpiece end stop and
retractable center drill.
You really want to have a lever style collet closer to feed
stock through the spindle for multiple parts and cutoffs. (You also
need something to keep that stock from whipping. For smaller or shorter
pieces, PVC pipe can do. All it needs to do is apply enough force to
keep the end of the stock from getting very far off center. Once it is
past a certain amount of deflection, there is nothing that will stop it,
and you want a panic bar to shut down the spindle *quickly*.
Pick up the two volume Moultrecht _Machine Shop Practice_ book
to see a lot about turret lathe work and many other impressive machine
tools.
If you look back through my previous postings, you can find one
or more examples of me describing how I make certain parts in production
mode.
Good Luck,
DoN.
Not in a turret lathe. It is floating in that it will slide to
adjust to being on axis, but will not release to spin freely when you
hit the feed stop (as the releasing tap holders will do). You *might*
be able to use it in the CNC milling machine with reversing at the
proper time. I'm not sure what kind of torque it will handle. But
reamers are not designed to run in reverse (it damages the edges), so I
don't know how the holder in question will do. (It is much fancier than
the ones which I have -- which you slide into alignment after setup and
then lock down a pair of nuts to keep it there.
[ ... ]
I thought that you did, and I described how you could probably
use it in a quick-change toolpost with a boring bar holder. (I've never
actually *tried* that, because all the centering is a pain.
And *this* is what you want for tapping in a turret lathe.
I've found a bunch of them today. They just were not listed
with "turret" in the description. I had to search on "Knurling tool"
instead, and live with all the extra hits. Here is one with a 1" shank
which might work up to 1-1/2" workpiece diameter -- and down in the
auction are several photos with different views.
# 270765793713
The current price is pretty good -- so far.
And here are the knurling roller holders which are in these
tools. (I've never seen them sold separately before.)
# 110480232833
For whatever reason, I don't see the V-grooves which define the
alignment of the rollers -- perhaps on the other side? There are
typically five -- square, +/- 30 Degrees and +/- 45 Degrees.
Note that for turret tooling, the letters B.S. frequently does *not*
mean Brown & Sharpe, but instead Boyar Shultz.
BTW -- I've also picked up turret style cut knurling tools -- three cut
knurling rollers on what look like weird jaws for a 3-jaw chuck,
allowing you to adjust the diameter and lock it. One I have is
OD only, the other has two sets of jaws, for OD or ID knurling.
They don't show up often, and it has been several years since I
last looked seriously. I've pretty much stopped purchasing via
eBay these days, with them trying to force the vendors to use
PayPal.
Deadly expensive if bought new, of course. :-)
The swing-arm knurlers are for a special version of turret
lathes, -- an "automatic screw machine", which automates things
like the operation of the lever.
[ ... ]
[ ... ]
Mostly for these because I spent a lot of time looking for
turret tooling, and learned the common terms used to describe them.
I'm sure I've missed some, since I did not do a thorough search.
Enjoy,
DoN.
Depends! 3/4" Geometric die holders tend to have at least a
3/4" shank, and more often a 1" shank. 1-1/4" Geometric die holders
may (if I am lucky) have a 1" shank, and your 1-1/2" shank should handle
them all fairly well.
Avoid 1/2" Geometric die holders. I've got one, but never found
any chasers to fit it. :-(
I use the 3/4" one with dies for threading a 5/8-27 thread on
brass -- fairly frequently. I start with 3/4" brass rod stock, a box
tool turns it down to slightly over 5/8", and the Geometric cuts the
full thread in a single pass. I knurl it, and undercut the end of the
threads at the shoulder, and then part off -- while filing a bevel on
the end of the threads and on both ends of the knurled 3/4" diameter
section. (Oh yes -- I also drill #7 and then tap 1/4-20 with a deep
enough hole to clear the chips.
There are 1" MT shank holders -- I think made to go in boring
bar holders, but they fit the turret just as well.
Hmm ... not a particularly useful set as far as I can see, but
examples still.
Make at least one 1" adaptor as well -- for the larger likely
Geometric die holders.
There are Morse taper drill holders, and Morse taper tap
holders. I've made up an adaptor for #1 Morse taper to the releasing
tap holder, and have the taps in the Morse holders. (The drill
holders want a flat ground on each side of the drill shank as an
anti-rotation key -- but I use a drill chuck for the drill bits, and
only use the Morse holders for the taps. (We'll see how they work with
thread forming taps in place of the home-made holders for the standard
gun taps.
Enjoy,
DoN.
Aside from what I already posted -- one thing to be really sure
to set up right before you start working.
Index a hole to the locked position, and then check for it being
concentric with your spindle (sweep with a dial indicator of some sort).
If necessary -- adjust the gibs to bring it truly on center from front
to back. You may need to shim if the height is not right.
The manual for my Clausing bed turret (which came with a matched
serial number to the lathe bed) had instructions to bore it to final
size using a tool in the spindle. It comes slightly undersized to allow
this. Since yours is not brand new (nor was mine) and you did not say
that it came with your machine, you'll need to work on tuning the gibs
instead.
While tuning for concentricity -- check a 1-1/2" bar held in it
for being parallel to the bed as well -- as you feed the ram in and out.
Good Luck,
DoN.
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