I seem to remember that someone has posted a link to a manual Klaiber
surface-grinder (that one was specifically a t&c-grinder). So chances are,
that someone has that Krautish crap*).
If so, I have a very specific question about the adjustment strip of the
This "tool" is stupid in a lot of details and crafted to Russian
agricultural equipment standards.
My only hope is, that it is in reality Made in Austria.
At least, it is making sparks now!
That would be me
Hey... thought you Germans were very patriotic ..
what're you doing knocking your own stuff .
my Klierber WS-1A
is still in the shed waiting for me to get round to it .
So haven't had chance to ascertain how good it is yet ...only fault so
far is main motor not working.
other Krautish crap...but not so crap ...fritz werner universal
milling machine to finish off first.
All the best...mark
Only for the good things. But I didn't get a Jung surface grinder for the
same money. :-)
And no, we are not patriotic, only proud of "Made in Germany". Patriotism
involves the government/state, and then we are clearly no patriots.
Because they really didn't have any pride building that pile of iron. The
plates that hold the felt for the way's protection look more like some
drunken tried to drill it and needed 3 attempts. And a lot of other things.
Mine is just the plain surface grinder (type unknown) with a much simpler
table and the spindle has only one position.
Basic construction is the same.
I also see, that mine is missing the right stop on the table that also
engages the automatic traversal feed. This will be the least work to build
a new one.
I'm a bit puzzled. That first photo in the link: Was it taken with the table
to the leftmost position?
'Cause here is my problem:
The adjustment strip for the tables dovetail is a mis-construction.
The table looks like this in cross-section:
Now the adjustment strip that sits in the lower mating guide is pressed
(from the left) against the slanted surface of the dovetail and thus
wanders upwards. Held in place by 8 M5 adjustment screws that happily bend.
Where I have drawn the **, the small side of the adjustment strip is
rubbing. Is this just with mine, or also with yours?
I know that some idiot has milled the dovetails and this might be the
All dovetails I can find here are constructed the other way round, so the
strip's narrow side is not pressed against the moving counterpart. 8-/
Maybe it isn't that bad. :-)
I have the feeling that I have to add some electronic controll because
cranking the table back and forth a zillion times by hand is not very
exciting. Later. :-)
Also, the helical gears on my grinder are quite worn out and don't move the
table smooth. Think I'll throw that out and replace it with a toothed belt.
I'm currently adding a coolant system, because the dust is a nightmare. Will
also build a cabinet-like thing with a shower curtain to keep the dust from
spreading. And a vacuum cleaner to the left to catch a bit of the dust.
I think this is good old iron. :-))
I think it is central in the photo
It has a couple of separate t-slotted pieces that are bolted to the
These can be moved so they overhang the table ...making the table an
extra 8 inches long if so desired for long pieces of work...in the
photo they are moved inboard of the edges.
The rest I cant answer until tomorrow.
On previous examination everything seemed nice and tight ...hardly any
play in the handles and no play in the table.
But ....a big but ......all may be due to muck and grime gumming up
the works ....after it's stripped cleaned ...put back together it may
be as sloppy as diorea.....we will have to wait and see ...me thinks.
Don't know why , you are so worried about the dust ..if the nearest
other machine is more than 2 metres away from it, you should not
worry ...as grinding dust is heavy and don't float that far from home.
a guard in the direction of the sparks is all that is needed..
When you compare this machine with similar British built basic
machines of the same vintage ...think it's better built ...and more
thought has gone into it .
As reguards the workmanship ....can only tell you how good that is
when I strip it down.
all the best.mark
I'm aware of that. The t&c grinder has a much more versatile table than
mine. Mine has just a plain simple table. And a magnetic table. :-)
That would be kind!
Not so with mine. All dovetails milled. I bet by some pre-owner who intended
to "repair" it. Than he luckily found an idiot (me) to buy the wreck. So I
had to scrape all guides. Took me more than half a year, including breaks
when I lost nerves.
Lathe #1: 1m; Mill: 1.5m, Lathe#2: 2m, Shaper: 4m, Material stock: right in
the direction of the sparks :-)
There are holes in the rear cover (extending the table; different to yours)
for such a guard. It was missing. But that guard also would collide with
the motor and the V-belt cover. Have to model one out of cardboard to see
how it has to look like.
Also tried with coolant yesterday, but the mess I made withing fractions of
a second was overwhelming. :-) There is a hole in the disk guard for
coolant, but it is pointing in the wrong direction.
All grinding disks either require or recommend using coolant.
The t&c model looks very versatile, no doubt!
*GREAT*! Thanks a lot!
On picture #16 (), I see that the narrow side of the
adjustment strip is ribbing on the table. That long triangular-shaped sign
of wear. Right?
So I have to make a new one, because mine was attacked with an angle-grinder
to make it lower/narrower. Doesn't make a real smooth surface. Anyhow, I
have a surface grinder to make his new strip.
I have downloaded all pictures, in case I ever decide to improve my Klaiber.
Your's is really much more versatile than mine.
No, thanks, they answered all my questions. And even more.
yep that triangular shape is wear ...but not as we know it ...and it
don't make any difference ...
the strip springs up a little as the machine travels to the extremes
of movement ..
the strip is approx 1mm short in height than it could be
so only to be expected the strip gets dragged a little ...
the strip is there for wear in the lateral plain of the table ...to
take up play in the table dovetails
the wear for down-woulds push of the table is taken by the wide
surfaces at the side of the jib...........
my Jones and shipman 540 does not have any jibs what so ever and the
table isn't attached to the lower parts at all ....only the rams keep
it from falling off.
same idea with this machine.....and lots of other surface
grinders ...some have loose ball bearngs on the ways ...
all the best..mark
If the small side of the strip touches the upper table, things get better a
bit. Taking some flex out of the adjusting screws.
No matter how, I have to make a new strip. The original was bowed to get the
play out. I have bent it straight, but certainly not perfectly flat.
Also with the huge gap between the casting and the strip, the oil from the
oiler will never go where it has to go. Not very clever that construction.
That's a common concept for surface ginders. But then, the lower part of the
dovetail is (or should be) as long as the table *plus* the travel. Not so
with my Klaiber. The lower part is shorter than the table. So gravity
works, but not in a desired way. :-)
Yes, it is! :-)))
I also have made photos and already written something (in German) about
scraping. Waiting a bit what questions come up and then I will finally
write my "Beginners guide to scraping" and put it on the net.
The only advice i can give you about gib strips is make them out of
iron or black mild steel ...the hot rolled scailey stuff
Then surface grind them perfect ..turning them over after every pass
The cold rolled expensive shiny stuff will end up like a banana when
you take it off the magnet ..no ,matter how careful you are .
Well... that's the results I've had with the stuff .
So go to your local fab shop and buy for buttons and get better
results . :)
The surface grinder has saved me a ton of money ..almost everything i
make is just fab shop mild steel ....that i clean and square up on the
surface grinder ...and almost always turns out perfect.
all the best.mark
all the best.mark
If you need to use cold rolled steel for a machined part then normalize it
first. Take it up to red heat for 2min/mm of thickness and then let it cool in
the open air...ish.
It has worked for me every time I've had to machine cold rolled mild steel,
except the first one.
Thanks, I know and do. 600°C, cool down 50° / h.
But never checked how much better it gets. Some say, it still bends.
Anyhow, it's a good procedure to mill off the same amount on both sides in
Made a dressing-diamond holder yesterday that goes onto the magnetic
table. Really simple and not worth showing.
But what did I get today? For free? Without initial warning? "Oh! look, do
you want to take that with you?". A dressing attachment that goes directly
to the wheel-head. Fits nice when I have drilled 3 new holes and scraped
(here it is again) the dovetails of that dresser. The axis can be
fine-adjusted to be parallel to the table. Only thing missing was the
diamond. Should I complain?
Sparks are getting better. But still a lot to learn, repair and adjust ...