Hello all,
It's here; it actually arrived yesterday. The arrival was not nearly the big deal it could have been, thanks to a terrific driver and a pallet jack.
I *know* I asked about the dials. They have both imperial and metric labels on separate "sub-rings" that are staggered, and with staggered pointers, but I still strongly suspect that it is an imperial machine; the thread selections are strongly tilted toward imperial. When US hardware stores switch, I'll _think_ about doing mechanics in metric units ;) BTW, the metric units for heat transfer beat the daylights out of BTUs and friends - no argument there.
Back to the lathe. I will check the screws against an indicator, but one thing that is clear is that they are 0.125/rev vs. the 0.1/rev I was told to expect. Somehow I suspect it won't bother me as much as it would on a mill. I like being able to pick off the last two digits to get the dial reading; it seems as though I could easily adapt to
0.2/rev, but 0.125???? I know many of you say it comes naturally, and you are typically bang on right; I still think it would bother me. No DROs please. I'm too cheap first off, and secondly I recently did some RT work that I probably could not have done had I not practiced with scales and dials. The manual approach works for me. I admit to sometimes printing and cutting templates from 1:1 drawings to help locate features when things get tricky.Gently prodding some of the headstock levers, they appear to be a little stubborn at times. Hopefully I have been clever enough to avoid breaking it, but let me know if I should be worried about levers that appear not to want to move to specific positions. I am assuming that much of it is gear teeth in the way, and that one would move the spindle to obtain favorable alignment??? I have yet to put power to it; there are wiring puzzles to ponder before I can safely do that. I have hydraulic oil on hand, but have yet to transfer the 3 GALLONS it is supposed to hold ~:0
The 4-jaw chuck is quite nice - it looks about as well-made as my Phase-II RT, which is saying something. Overall, the lathe looks like a very stocky machine. From the little I have seen of the cross and compound, they look nicely assembled - cosmoline everywhere, but no obvious grit yet.
What I believe to be the face plate is (if I gave it a fair shake with a quick inspection) not a thing of beauty, but it should serve. Is that for the lathe analog of clamping to a mill table? Dare I ask how to do precision setups on it? I suspect that most of my work will start out held in the chucks. A few years from now, when I start spending money again, I will look for a 5C setup of some sort.
That's about all the crowing I have time to do right now - gotta go to work in the morning. However, I will pick up with questions later. For now, the lathe is safely in my garage, the crate is removed, and the lathe sits on a skid (I guess that is what one would call it???) on top of a pallet. Standing at the headstock end, the lathe is against the right side of the pallet. So, I am thinking of cribbing the skid just enough to unload the pallet, at which point I think I will be able to break away the pallet and straddle the lathe/skid with my hoist and sling the lathe. I promise not to burn bridges until I measure it. The only problem I see is that from the tailstock end, the skid is not sticking out very far, leaving what appears to be an angled bottom surface. Would you recommend cribbing that end "inside the pallet," or would you simply crib the pallet enough to get the hoist legs under it. Cribbing just the skid would save a fair amount of lifting distance, provided it works. However, maybe I need the practice with cribbing anyway. Having the pallet adds lateral stability (I hope!), so it might be a good option until the lathe is balanced on the slings.
Comments? The lathe (or life - foot for sure) you save could be my own.
MANY dumb questions to come.
Bill