Build the part around the hole. Leave lots of stock and finish the part to where the hole is.
Build the part around the hole. Leave lots of stock and finish the part to where the hole is.
Thanks for the informative reply. I'll do the work on my Clausing mill which is quite tight and runs true.
I should have quantified "straight", the back of the rudder blade is 1/8" thick where the hole will be so I'll have 0.030" or so to play with on each side...
I can be very patient and gentle when needed :)
Here's a picture of a comercially available unit, a picture is worth a thousand words they say:
Yes, was planning on that, thanks...
On Thu, 21 Jun 2007 14:59:34 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Pete Snell quickly quoth:
Really! I've seen bits that long but not fluted all the way, which would make that hole a real problem. The best bet is to CAST it in.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - If God approved of nudity, we all would have been born naked. ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -----
So you can drill a bigger hole and drill the end with the small diameter. Makes things a lot easier.
Nick
I've never tried to buy one. Anyway, they are easy to make and that's what I've always done. Especially for the size hole you want. Buy a length of .062" drill rod, file or mill to shape, harden, temper, stone, and it's done. When starting the hole use a center drill first and then an undersized stub length drill. Using the stub length drill will give you a straight hole that will be reamed to size with the D bit. After the initial start the D bit will be removing all of the material. Use lots of oil and a slow feed rate, removing the drill often to clear the chips. If the drill wants to whip when not in the material then lower the drill into the hole before turning on the spindle. D bits tend to make very straight holes. Gundrills have a similar mode of operation. The tips are ground on the OD so that they fit the hole ID snugly. High pressure oil passes through the center of the drill and exits out of a single straight flute. For small drills the high pressure of the oil not only pushes the chips out it also supports the drill shank. ERS
Thanks muck for this info, I'll give it a try!
---------------------------------- My initial reaction is 'nonsense'; you need to try harder here. You seem to be starting from 'I have to':
----------------------------------
---------------------------------- Try starting instead from:
- Make an itemized list of everything that this part must do.
- Make a list of the loads acting on the part.
- Make an itemized list of everything that this hole must do. Incidentally, your "picture is worth a thousand words" still needs some words and arrows to identify the location of the hole in question and clarify its purpose.
- Make a list of design constraints (cost, tools available, materials available, your skill level, etc)
- Try to put aside your preconceptions and generate an exhaustive list of design concepts.
- Evaluate each design concept against your list of functional requirements, loads and design constraints.
- Pick the most likely design concept.
David Merrill
"sleeve"
I can translate if necessary.
JR
LOL
You're asking for sensible industrial design with the intent to manufacture efficiently and inexpensively with commonly available tooling.
Many (most) readers in this group have no concept of the difficultly involved with designing and manufacturing parts "correctly". And heaven forbid they should take the suggestions of people who have thousands (tens of thousands) of hours of professional experience doing exactly what they're asking.
Lots of readers, on the other hand, *think* they know what they're looking for, and *think* they know how to produce what they're looking for. Indeed those with just enough knowledge to believe they have the best solution to a problem they don't fully understand are all too common (and the most useless at taking sound advice).
Metalworking isn't a couch sport, but the world is full of couch potatoes.
Regards,
Robin
Relax. That's why they call it "rec". If the OP doesn't have a good BS filter, he shouldn't ask here. On the other hand, there are usually some good suggestions in the responses.
Pete Keillor
I have drilled 1000s of .062 dia lube holes up to 6 inch depth for aircraft parts on drill presses.We had fixtures to hold the part and guide bushings but if you set it up right , it can easily be done without them. Use an aircraft length drill bit or better yet a paraflute bit.(long twist to remove chips) With the maching running as high RPM as it will do,Spot the hole, chuck the .062 and peck lightly clearing chips with every peck. You really need to have light touch. Take your time, use coolant or oil. Sometimes oil will remove chips better. Keep the chips cleared! You may need to stop drilling and pick and blow the chips out if they get jammed. If you try and drill thru the jammed chips you will probably break the bit. Have fun, Clay
Thanks much for the help, I knew it was possible because there's people out there doing it, just didn't know the best technique...
Its good to hear someone mention using a "paraflute bit" as this is what I assumed would be best for the job but wasn't completely sure.
If they were aircraft parts I'd bet they were 2024, is that right?
"> I have drilled 1000s of .062 dia lube holes up to 6 inch depth for
snip
I like this idea
Gunner
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We put lube holes in about every type of aluminum, plus steel, inconel, titanium and magnesium alloys. Clay
That's where I learned to use the silver antiseize. Dad made damn sure we used it on any aluminum on the crop dusters, especially things like the end cap for the adjustable pitch Hamilton Standards on the P&W R985's.
Otherwise, aluminum and most other alloys tend to grow together permanently over time. At least they did in crop duster service.
Pete Keillor
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