With a 70 degree included angle, and a normal 90 degrees between
the tip and the side of the mill?
Granted -- 70 degrees seems a lot narrower than on my Clausing
lathe -- a 12x24" model 5418/
Hardly frozen lately. Temp just hit 94 deg and it has been hovering
around 90 for over a week now. Suppose to stay that way, maybe get a
bit hotter for the rest of the week, sigh...
Wasn't familiar with that company so I looked at the website. They are
within spitting distance of the old GM Stamping plant that used to be
on 36th St.
Sure, I could do all that. I have the sine bar and the gauge blocks.
But it's a lot of trouble, and the special tool makes sense to me on an
available-time economy basis.
The other problem is that the min distance (which governs the endmill
diameter) is a bit small.
Cut the blank longer than the width of the blocks so the vise jaws
will grab the ends. Otherwise the work is difficult to hold down
Yes, they are a good approach, and I have an adjustable version of the
same, and it would not be difficult to adjust the block to the desired
angle. This will come in handy for one-off jobs, but for the Clausing
V-rail grooves I decided that a specialized tool was worthwhile.
PS: <http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/toolex/item/857295/ Bought
used for maybe 10% of listed price; don't recall the details. Nor do I
know who sells this in the US.
You did write that you had already ordered them, but it's a good
opportunity to discuss alternatives for similar jobs, including those
you could use for fine adjustments if the Clausing's angle doesn't
exactly match the end mill's.
I bought an expensive new angle cutter while I was unemployed to recut
the ways on an old worn lathe, on the trade school's horizontal mill.
I don't think that would work for a 70 degree *internal* angle.
The lathe has a projecting inverted V. The body for the micrometer stop
-- or other devices -- is a *female* V.
I guess that you could use your approach with a dovetail mill to
cut the female V.
A lot easier here -- since the angle is narrower than the end of
an end mill, and a HSS lathe bit is cheap enough to grind to a proper
point for the task.
You might want to consider installing a Trav-a-dial on your carriage.
It measures infinite travel, is always available, and is quick to
re-zero. It's one of the most-used accessories on my Clausing 5914.
I agree with both of you. I have used the dial indicator, and always
overshoot, so the plan is to use the indicator to set the stop.
As for the Trav-a-dial, it is the original CRO (Clockface Read Out), and
is a real possibility. I think they are still made, but are not cheap.
Mounting a real DRO is likely to be pretty awkward, given that the lathe
was not designed for a DRO. I had been toying with mounting a short
unit on a bedway fixture that in clamped into place when needed.
Joe - you can find working TADs on Ebay for $150 or so with a bit of
patience, though seem to be bringing $200+ recently.
The spherical washers needed for the mount are often missing and are
available from McMaster-Carr among other sources. Mine lacked the
tensioning device so I cobbled one up in the shop. I can provide
drawings for that and for the mount made for my 5914 if you are
interested. The mount was made of aluminum plate and bolted together.
Welding would be better but the bolted version has been working fine
for my needs for 5 or 6 years now.
I've repaired a small pile of Trav-a-dials - they often get gummy from
coolant or get swarf in the gears - I've been able to clean them just
fine, replace the damaged glass (well, plastic) - just remember to
retension the anti-backlash gear upon reassembly
On Sat, 14 Jul 2012 20:28:11 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
I usually figure that if they look beat up, they are not worth the
risk if personal inspection is not possible. In general, you need
2) TAD base
3) TAD unit (dial)
4) Sphereical washers for 1/4" screws
5) 1/4-28 screws (4)
The bracket is attached to the lathe carriage or mill and is usually
custom-made for the machine it will be mounted on, though SWI used to
(and may still) sell brackets for common machines.
The TAD base mounts to the bracket and has 2 hard inserts that two of
the 1/4-28 screws bear against to adjust the tilt of the base in the
lathe X-Y plane (perpendicular to longitudinal travel). The important
part here is that the inserts should be flat - some are dented.
The TAD unit has the dials and a wheel that bears againts the bed ways
(in the case of a lathe). Swarf from a PO's installation can get
inside the unit, which can mess up the clock action. SWI claims that
the TADs are not serviceable, though some owners report success. I
wouldn't count on it being serviceable so would not pay much for one
that was suspect. SWI included a clip and foam gasket that fit over
the wheel and (mostly) prevented swarf from getting inside the unit,
but these are usually missing. SWI used to supply spares and may
still. The dial cover also was a replacement part and I'd order a
spare if they are still available. Old ones tend to crack and yellow
with age. Naturally you need the dial finger to be intact, too.
A copy of the manual or knowledgeable friend can be nearly essential.
There is a calibration procedure which is a more involved than I care
to deal with in a newsgroup message. Email me if you want a copy. I
get here once a week at most.
There were 2 or 3 different versions over the years. I have manuals
for the Series 6 and Series 7/8 models.
Hopefully someone else will correct any misinformation in the above.
It would be luck indeed if one turned up with the correct bracket, so I
expect that I'll be making the bracket.
Is there any reason one could not make the inserts of say O1 steel, and
harden them oneself?
I assume that these 1/4-28 screws are nothing special. As for the
spherical 1/4 inch washers, one can buy such things from Gibralter and
I've taken dial calipers apart to clean and repair them (including swarf
removal). It was fiddly, but wasn't that hard.
The wheel looks like it came from a knurler.
If I score a unit, I'm sure I'll be needing the manual.
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