The part number of my connector is
MS3106A28-20S
I will now look for it.
Found something already at
The part number of my connector is
MS3106A28-20S
I will now look for it.
Found something already at
Should be much cheaper at the links we have provided.. Don't forget that you want the mating connector...
But, after looking, maybe not : )
Are you sure about that part number? That seems to be a 14 pin connector. You're looking for a 3 pin power connector, right?
What's the part number on the receptacle?
R, Tom Q.
Remove bogusinfo to reply.
The number is correct and it has many pins.
i
There is a frugal way of dealing with this. Simply obtain some of the gold pins that fit inside the connector, solder them to your cable, add some small heat shrink tube, and them manually mate the pins with the proper positions on the connector. With a little scrounging, you can go one step further and find an empty shell to act as a strain relief, then nobody will even know that you don't have the proper connector in place.
If you can't find that stuff on some surplus junk somewhere, I will check in some old drawers at work, we once used that style connector on traffic signal controllers.
Vaughn
The MS3106 seroies can be replaced with a connector supplied in the Newark catalog. I think they are the 97 series but i dont have the catalog at home.
John
97-3106A-28-20S :
Thanks Vaughn!
i
that should be the connector
John
I am very happy. Turns out that in fact some of my units already have connectors and data cables. Some do not, though, so I will need to buy some. This seems to be a nice website that you mentioned. Thanks a lot.
One unit has a knob broken, looks like I am in for a major ass reaming by Harris. It is a multi-selector knob, selects from like 11 positions. I wish there was a way to simply reattach/mend its broken stem, but it looks difficult as it is thin.
See
Thanks. If you have a meter selection knob, I will be delighted. I have one broken one. I could obviously pay for one. That's the knob under the LCD display. See
You might be able to disassemble another switch ofthe same switch mfgr.. (not harris) and just replace the shaft without resoldering the wafers.
YOu have to match the series of the switch design and get the proper number of swithc positions.
John
thjanks for the tip
iTake a couple pictures, any part numbers, and some basic dimensions into your local electronics supplier (not Rat Shack, but you might get lucky!) and get it fixed right. Replace the switch with new and eliminate all worry about the subject. If not, post the pictures and whatnot and someone will do a little bit of legwork and point you to a source if you can't find one on the web, as there's a billion sources for multiposition, multipole, stacked switches. You'll expend more effort and resources trying to get it wrong than getting it right.
| >
| > Ignoramus25901 wrote: | >>
| >> On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 04:00:18 GMT, Tom Quackenbush wrote: | >> > john wrote: | >> >
| >> >>> > The part number of my connector is | >> >>> >
| >> >>> > MS3106A28-20S | >> >
| >> >>
| >> >>
| >> >>The MS3106 seroies can be replaced with a connector supplied in the | >> >>Newark catalog. I think they are the 97 series but i dont have the | >> >>catalog at home. | >> >
| >> > 97-3106A-28-20S : | >> >
| >> >
| >> BEAUTIFUL, THANKS! | >>
| >> I am very happy. Turns out that in fact some of my units already have | >> connectors and data cables. Some do not, though, so I will need to buy | >> some. This seems to be a nice website that you mentioned. Thanks a | >> lot. | >>
| >> One unit has a knob broken, looks like I am in for a major ass reaming | >> by Harris. It is a multi-selector knob, selects from like 11 | >> positions. I wish there was a way to simply reattach/mend its broken | >> stem, but it looks difficult as it is thin. | >>
| >> See | >>
| >>
| >> This is obviously a picture of the one that is not broken. | >>
| >> i | >
| >
| >
| >
| > You might be able to disassemble another switch ofthe same switch mfgr.. | > (not harris) and just replace the shaft without resoldering the wafers. | >
| > YOu have to match the series of the switch design and get the proper | > number of swithc positions. | >
| > John | | thjanks for the tip | | i | | --
Thanks. That's what I am trying to do, to figure out what is the easiest route to take.
i
This depends on the particular switch. There are simple ones which have a ring contact for the wiper, and a single contact for each position of the wiper. There are ones which have a split ring and two wipers, and six positions. There are ones which have rings split into three, four, or six sections, with a corresponding four, three, or two positions. These are all available off-the-shelf And finally, there are ones with custom decks and wipers, which make connections in a special pattern which makes sense only for that one particular device. These are typically found in things like a multimeter, where the actual function of the device changes with the position of the switch.
Another example of this type is the drum switch, implemented with wafers. I've got one on my lathe. (Other drum switches are implemented with cams and separate contacts, and probably other ways as well.)
For those -- there *are* kits of raw decks and hubs, with wiper parts which stake into place to build what you need for either a prototype, or a generic replacement. I forget what such a kit sells for, but it has the components to build a lot of switches, so I am sure that it is not cheap. (It is lovely to have when repairing equipment whose maker has forgotten about it, or whose maker is long gone.
But -- as above -- buying a *correct* replacement may be beyond practicality.
For *simple* switches of very good quality, look into those made by Greyhill. They make both 1/4" shaft and 1/8" shaft versions. They are basically a full rotation per deck (1 pole 12 throw), with provisions for installing stop pins to limit the number of positions actually allowed. You can also get those as kits, allowing you to build as long a stack of decks as needed. Each deck is fully enclosed on those, so there is no chance of debris falling into the middle of the switch and breaking part of it, as I have had happen once in a hand-held Fluke digital multimeter. (I was able to disassemble the switch and stake the parts back where they belonged, luckily.)
FWIW -- the OP -- "ignoramus" appears to be posting from one of the newsservers blocked because of either hosting mostly trolls, or for being used by HipCrime in his recent attacks on news.admin.net-abuse.email. In either case, as a result, I am not seeing any of his original questions -- just what is quoted by those following-up to his postings. If it is "alt.net", there is zero chance that I will unblock that -- and other block it too, because it never kills off the accounts of trolls and other offenders.
As a result, I may not know all that was posted about the switch in question.
Good Luck, DoN.
I'll save this part of your post in my notes file for my Harris amplifier. Thanks.
I am posting from alt.net, yes.
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