Making custom power connectors

I'd probably remove the existing receptacle and install a romex clamp or weatherproof strain relief (much more expensive than the romex clamp), then pass the power cord through that...

You should be able to buy the connectors and make up your own cables. They are likely to be quite expensive, though.

Leon

Go to Digikey, Allied electronics, or similar supplier. If you look on the base flange or somewhere on the connector you'll see a part number that starts with "MS" or something like that. Call up the supplier and tell them what you have and they'll set you up. If not, give me the number and I'll see what I can do as far as finding you a mating part number. There's a couple outfits out there, and I can't remember the names, that specialize is old and obsolete military style connectors. I say military style only because they started them, and they're actually used in many, many industries.

This is the best solution. Forgot all about them being Amphenol connectors, and the 3 pin ones should be readily availble.....

Thanks, that takes my current thinking also (replace the receptacle)and takes it further (use romex clamp). Great idea about the romex clamp! They should sell that at Home Depot...

i

Thanks. I am at work right now, and will look it up tonight. Appreciate the tip. I anticipate that cost may be an issue.

i

By the way, I already bought something from Allied -- a normally closed Hobbs oil pressure switch -- and am very satisfied.

Thanks guys. I would rather spend say $20 per unit and get something super nice, than spend 30 minutes per unit dicking around and making an inferior product.

i

How expensive? Just curious.

i

First, I would make an attempt to get the right connector. You can download free manuals at

You could post a link to a picture of the connector and someone just might have a drawer full of them somewhere, or you could contact any of several surplus dealers who are selling that amp. Google is your friend.

Vaughn

And reading the manual tells you that you need to get or build a power supply -- otherwise it looks like a really nice amplifier. Be careful when you're connecting that 3000V lead, though.

Thank you. I already downloaded that manual and will peruse it. I agree that trying to find a supplier prior to making my own plugs is a wise plan.

i

These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's through the

60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors then, but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look them up in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I think that's the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for the connector stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which identifies the shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the sex, male in the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it. There is, I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but much cheaper. It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should work otherwise.

Jon

They've gone from being very expensive, to just a little expensive (and reasonable value if you need that sort of thing). There are types that are compatible and plastic, and thus a bit cheaper. It's not worth trying to make one if you can buy the type you need.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Thanks. I will look up everything relevant tonight, all the specs, codes etc, and will also post good pictures. Any idea how much these connectors even might cost?

i

For vintage electronic and military gear, try Fair Radio in Lima OH

Typically, a manufacturer will put their name and/or a part number (or connector series number) on their connectors. Have a look at the inside surfaces of the mating connector to see if there's any info on it.

WB ...............

Thanks!

I will look everything up and report my findings soon.

i

For starters:

| >

| These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol | brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's | through the | 60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors | then, | but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look | them up | in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I | think that's | the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for | the connector | stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which | identifies the | shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the | sex, male in | the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it. | There is, | I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but | much cheaper. | It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should | work otherwise | | Jon

I hesitated to try and recall any of the numbers and their systems, but they are more or less a standard configuration as mentioned above. What usually makes the connector expensive is the environment it's made for. Obviously high temp, high vibe with hydraulic fluid will cost you more, including the necessary backshells and clamps. You can get plastic bodies that work fine for your application, and when you're doing your research you'll find that you likely need a backshell or wire support just behind the clamp to keep the wires from fatiguing and breaking. I also should offer a small warning here about the contacts. You can find solder contacts, crimp contacts, and some connectors will have fixed contacts and some with removable. The solder connectors will likely be more expensive, and the replaceable contact connectors cheaper, but the tooling for the contacts (the contact also depends on the kind of wire and gauge you'll be putting in) are more expensive. For several connectors, it might be worth the investment of the tooling. All depends on you. Soldered connectors are far more likely to break the wires than crimped ones, especially if there's not a backshell. If you decide to go with the soldered connectors, get with me off line and I'll give you some pointers to keep the wire from breaking so soon. Then again you just might have to run with whatever you can find!

Base diagrams are here: