Making custom power connectors

I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
the most practical way of connecting a power cable.
I found this on some website: ``J-1 is the power jack. Pin P is
Ground. Pin J is Hot. Pin A is Common. If you look on the inside of
the jack you will see the Green, Black and White wires going to these
pins J .''
I have a few options:
1. Open the unit and put in a power cable with ring terminals through
a ventilation in the unit and connect ring terminals to the proper
inside terminals. That will make a perfectly well working, although
not very sightly, unit.
1a. Remove the round cord receptacle and put in a wooden plug with a
hole in the center, and the power cord would go through it (instead of
through ventilation holes).
2. Solder a power cable to the connector pins. Also unsightly and also
rather decent.
3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it requires
is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood
work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow
need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of
hassle.
I am tempted to go with option number 1 or 1a for simplicity and
reliability, but want to get some opinions.
thanks!
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
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I'd probably remove the existing receptacle and install a romex clamp or weatherproof strain relief (much more expensive than the romex clamp), then pass the power cord through that...
Reply to
Rick
You should be able to buy the connectors and make up your own cables. They are likely to be quite expensive, though.
Leon
Reply to
Leon Heller
Go to Digikey, Allied electronics, or similar supplier. If you look on the base flange or somewhere on the connector you'll see a part number that starts with "MS" or something like that. Call up the supplier and tell them what you have and they'll set you up. If not, give me the number and I'll see what I can do as far as finding you a mating part number. There's a couple outfits out there, and I can't remember the names, that specialize is old and obsolete military style connectors. I say military style only because they started them, and they're actually used in many, many industries.
| I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to | sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a | working condition. They will sell much better if they have power | cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power | cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking | out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged | power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is | ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is | the most practical way of connecting a power cable. | | I found this on some website: ``J-1 is the power jack. Pin P is | Ground. Pin J is Hot. Pin A is Common. If you look on the inside of | the jack you will see the Green, Black and White wires going to these | pins J .'' | | I have a few options: | | 1. Open the unit and put in a power cable with ring terminals through | a ventilation in the unit and connect ring terminals to the proper | inside terminals. That will make a perfectly well working, although | not very sightly, unit. | | 1a. Remove the round cord receptacle and put in a wooden plug with a | hole in the center, and the power cord would go through it (instead of | through ventilation holes). | | 2. Solder a power cable to the connector pins. Also unsightly and also | rather decent. | | 3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it requires | is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood | work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow | need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of | hassle. | | | I am tempted to go with option number 1 or 1a for simplicity and | reliability, but want to get some opinions. | | thanks! | | i |
Reply to
carl mciver
This is the best solution. Forgot all about them being Amphenol connectors, and the 3 pin ones should be readily availble.....
Reply to
Rick
Thanks, that takes my current thinking also (replace the receptacle)and takes it further (use romex clamp). Great idea about the romex clamp! They should sell that at Home Depot...
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
Thanks. I am at work right now, and will look it up tonight. Appreciate the tip. I anticipate that cost may be an issue.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
By the way, I already bought something from Allied -- a normally closed Hobbs oil pressure switch -- and am very satisfied.
Thanks guys. I would rather spend say $20 per unit and get something super nice, than spend 30 minutes per unit dicking around and making an inferior product.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
How expensive? Just curious.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
First, I would make an attempt to get the right connector. You can download free manuals at
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You could post a link to a picture of the connector and someone just might have a drawer full of them somewhere, or you could contact any of several surplus dealers who are selling that amp. Google is your friend.
Vaughn
Reply to
Vaughn Simon
And reading the manual tells you that you need to get or build a power supply -- otherwise it looks like a really nice amplifier. Be careful when you're connecting that 3000V lead, though.
Reply to
Tim Wescott
Thank you. I already downloaded that manual and will peruse it. I agree that trying to find a supplier prior to making my own plugs is a wise plan.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's through the 60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors then, but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look them up in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I think that's the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for the connector stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which identifies the shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the sex, male in the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it. There is, I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but much cheaper. It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should work otherwise.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson
They've gone from being very expensive, to just a little expensive (and reasonable value if you need that sort of thing). There are types that are compatible and plastic, and thus a bit cheaper. It's not worth trying to make one if you can buy the type you need.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
Reply to
Spehro Pefhany
Thanks. I will look up everything relevant tonight, all the specs, codes etc, and will also post good pictures. Any idea how much these connectors even might cost?
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
For vintage electronic and military gear, try Fair Radio in Lima OH
Typically, a manufacturer will put their name and/or a part number (or connector series number) on their connectors. Have a look at the inside surfaces of the mating connector to see if there's any info on it.
WB ...............
Reply to
Wild Bill
Thanks!
I will look everything up and report my findings soon.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus25901
For starters:
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Reply to
Rick
| | | Ignoramus25901 wrote: | | >I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to | >sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a | >working condition. They will sell much better if they have power | >cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power | >cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking | >out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged | >power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is | >ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is | >the most practical way of connecting a power cable. | > | > | These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol | brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's | through the | 60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors | then, | but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look | them up | in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I | think that's | the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for | the connector | stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which | identifies the | shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the | sex, male in | the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it. | There is, | I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but | much cheaper. | It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should | work otherwise | | Jon
I hesitated to try and recall any of the numbers and their systems, but they are more or less a standard configuration as mentioned above. What usually makes the connector expensive is the environment it's made for. Obviously high temp, high vibe with hydraulic fluid will cost you more, including the necessary backshells and clamps. You can get plastic bodies that work fine for your application, and when you're doing your research you'll find that you likely need a backshell or wire support just behind the clamp to keep the wires from fatiguing and breaking. I also should offer a small warning here about the contacts. You can find solder contacts, crimp contacts, and some connectors will have fixed contacts and some with removable. The solder connectors will likely be more expensive, and the replaceable contact connectors cheaper, but the tooling for the contacts (the contact also depends on the kind of wire and gauge you'll be putting in) are more expensive. For several connectors, it might be worth the investment of the tooling. All depends on you. Soldered connectors are far more likely to break the wires than crimped ones, especially if there's not a backshell. If you decide to go with the soldered connectors, get with me off line and I'll give you some pointers to keep the wire from breaking so soon. Then again you just might have to run with whatever you can find!
Reply to
carl mciver
Base diagrams are here:
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Reply to
Rick

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