Making custom power connectors

I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
working condition. They will sell much better if they have power cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is the most practical way of connecting a power cable.
I found this on some website: ``J-1 is the power jack. Pin P is Ground. Pin J is Hot. Pin A is Common. If you look on the inside of the jack you will see the Green, Black and White wires going to these pins J .''
I have a few options:
1. Open the unit and put in a power cable with ring terminals through a ventilation in the unit and connect ring terminals to the proper inside terminals. That will make a perfectly well working, although not very sightly, unit.
1a. Remove the round cord receptacle and put in a wooden plug with a hole in the center, and the power cord would go through it (instead of through ventilation holes).
2. Solder a power cable to the connector pins. Also unsightly and also rather decent.
3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it requires is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of hassle.
I am tempted to go with option number 1 or 1a for simplicity and reliability, but want to get some opinions.
thanks!
i
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I'd probably remove the existing receptacle and install a romex clamp or weatherproof strain relief (much more expensive than the romex clamp), then pass the power cord through that...
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Thanks, that takes my current thinking also (replace the receptacle)and takes it further (use romex clamp). Great idea about the romex clamp! They should sell that at Home Depot...
i
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You should be able to buy the connectors and make up your own cables. They are likely to be quite expensive, though.
Leon
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How expensive? Just curious.
i
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Go to Digikey, Allied electronics, or similar supplier. If you look on the base flange or somewhere on the connector you'll see a part number that starts with "MS" or something like that. Call up the supplier and tell them what you have and they'll set you up. If not, give me the number and I'll see what I can do as far as finding you a mating part number. There's a couple outfits out there, and I can't remember the names, that specialize is old and obsolete military style connectors. I say military style only because they started them, and they're actually used in many, many industries.
| I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to | sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a | working condition. They will sell much better if they have power | cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power | cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking | out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged | power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is | ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is | the most practical way of connecting a power cable. | | I found this on some website: ``J-1 is the power jack. Pin P is | Ground. Pin J is Hot. Pin A is Common. If you look on the inside of | the jack you will see the Green, Black and White wires going to these | pins J .'' | | I have a few options: | | 1. Open the unit and put in a power cable with ring terminals through | a ventilation in the unit and connect ring terminals to the proper | inside terminals. That will make a perfectly well working, although | not very sightly, unit. | | 1a. Remove the round cord receptacle and put in a wooden plug with a | hole in the center, and the power cord would go through it (instead of | through ventilation holes). | | 2. Solder a power cable to the connector pins. Also unsightly and also | rather decent. | | 3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it requires | is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood | work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow | need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of | hassle. | | | I am tempted to go with option number 1 or 1a for simplicity and | reliability, but want to get some opinions. | | thanks! | | i |
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on
that
them
finding
that
This is the best solution. Forgot all about them being Amphenol connectors, and the 3 pin ones should be readily availble.....
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By the way, I already bought something from Allied -- a normally closed Hobbs oil pressure switch -- and am very satisfied.
Thanks guys. I would rather spend say $20 per unit and get something super nice, than spend 30 minutes per unit dicking around and making an inferior product.
i
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Thanks. I am at work right now, and will look it up tonight. Appreciate the tip. I anticipate that cost may be an issue.
i
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On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 15:37:43 GMT, the renowned "carl mciver"

They've gone from being very expensive, to just a little expensive (and reasonable value if you need that sort of thing). There are types that are compatible and plastic, and thus a bit cheaper. It's not worth trying to make one if you can buy the type you need.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
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On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:51:07 -0500, Spehro Pefhany

Thanks. I will look up everything relevant tonight, all the specs, codes etc, and will also post good pictures. Any idea how much these connectors even might cost?
i
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For starters: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/620/806.pdf
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wrote:

Base diagrams are here:
http://www.amphenol.com.au/catalogue/ms97series.pdf
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On 30 Dec 2004 19:54:32 GMT, the renowned Ignoramus25901

Maybe $10 each for ones with just a few pins. Less if you can find them surplus, but there are a lot of variations.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
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snipped-for-privacy@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
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On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 18:13:23 -0500, Spehro Pefhany

Thanks. The part number is MS3106A28-20S. I found it for $40 already, at
http://www.remelectronics.com/SearchResults.asp?bManufacturerList=1&sProductCode 4&sManufacturerAbbrN
I am obviously going to look for better price.
i
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First, I would make an attempt to get the right connector. You can download free manuals at http://www.petergottlieb.com/links.html . You could post a link to a picture of the connector and someone just might have a drawer full of them somewhere, or you could contact any of several surplus dealers who are selling that amp. Google is your friend.
Vaughn
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Vaughn Simon wrote:

And reading the manual tells you that you need to get or build a power supply -- otherwise it looks like a really nice amplifier. Be careful when you're connecting that 3000V lead, though.
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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wrote:

Thank you. I already downloaded that manual and will peruse it. I agree that trying to find a supplier prior to making my own plugs is a wise plan.
i
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Ignoramus25901 wrote:

These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's through the 60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors then, but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look them up in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I think that's the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for the connector stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which identifies the shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the sex, male in the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it. There is, I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but much cheaper. It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should work otherwise.
Jon
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Thanks!
I will look everything up and report my findings soon.
i
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