I'm mostly posting to say thanks to Gunner, Tom, and Don. "The Kid" and I just finished reloading 1000 rounds 9mm. It went smooth as silk once we learned the trick to chamfer the primer ring on military brass. Just put a counter sink in the lathe and run it at about 500. Touch the brass to it for a second and its perfect. I got to grabbing another brass with one hand and transferring it to the other to chamfer really fast.
Thanks again for all the help getting us in the reloading bidness.
Satisfying, isn't it! The best part of my favorite revolver is NOT policing brass. I'll bet the .308 throws 'em a mile in all directions. I found these nice grabbers for old people at the drug store to pick up brass...I qualify, don't I? They didn't ask for my AARP card. I'm trying to think of a way to color my auto-loader brass so I can retrieve them at the local range easily.
I guess I haven't learned any more. I'm just resizing the neck down to the shoulder and it works fine in my gun. I've reloaded a few bullets three times and they still work fine. I'll just worry about it when I have a problem, i guess.
We fired a dozen into the dark friday night before the kid went out with his buddies. He had a bit of trouble waking up this morning (lots o' beer does that to you) and we had tons o' customers cutting down Xmas trees in the firing range all day. Mom thought it poor form to waste a customer. The kid said we'd only scare them and maybe wing one but she wasn't convinced
Is it the same with all shouldered rimmless cartridges? In .308 there is this imaginary circle in the shoulder. Rimmed or belted cartridges have a different reference point. When you start looking at pressure wave deflection and focus, my eyes start to glaze over. Sometimes I'm amazed that any of this shit works at all. The more I know, the less I know...the variables start to really pile up. On the other hand, it all DOES work to a greater or lesser extent, it's chasing the tiny details that ballistic experts have been dealing with for years that I find interesting yet mind boggling.
Boxer . Berdan cases are too much of a PITA to decap , and I've yet to find a source for the primers . Wish it were easier , I've got lots of Berdan primed cases ... and I really hate to toss them after only one use . Some of my brass is on it's 4th or 5th reload . Just gotta watch the length , and anneal the necks occasionally . I neck size ... by not runnin' them all the way into the resizer/decapper die . I stop about .070-.080" from full depth , and it's worked for me for many years . Also saves the cost of another die .
I made a fixture to drill out some .223 steel cases Berdan and converted them to Boxer. If I had a lot of them, I would have bought or made a collet for my W&S #2 turret lathe. That would have been FAST! I reloaded the Wolf cases just to see if I could...still don't like 'em. (I fixed the e-mail)
This stuff is Turkish made, comes all preloaded in strippers and set up for the Mauser. I have to remind folks that it is NOT civilian ammo.
The problem with 8MM is that many of the early guns used a smaller bore in the barrel. The early (model 1888 and 1898) 8mm was loaded to a nominal 2,034 fps with a 227-grain .318 inch bullet. This one referred to as the 8x57J. In 1905 it was replaced with a high-velocity version loaded with a
154-grain Spitzer bullet at a muzzle velocity of 2,936 fps. The new loading was officially designated as the 8x57JS, and bullet diameter was increased to .323 inch.
So to make it safe for ALL guns they load down civilian ammo to make up for the problem. However if your sure you have the later bore the mil-surp stuff really wakes up the gun. Also corrects the minor problem of the low zero from the sights being set to zero at 300 meters.
I am currently looking at pulling down the GEW I have and putting a new barrel on it in 8mm but shorter and thicker. Then a good stock. Make it into a nice carry gun.(The current barrel is SHOT so it's not a big loss)