Part cleaning between machining operations

For deburring a block (during squaring) a disc grinder can be used. Belt sanders are quick too. Files work but take some time. There are deburring tools which can work well but they take some getting used to.

As far as cleaning, an air hose is ideal. I don't think it's a great idea to blow off a manual machine but blowing off the part is pretty standard. Otherwise, I like cheap paint brushs (the $1 2" wide paint brushes) for the chips, and then a shop rag if you're picky about coolant.

HTH.

Regards,

Robin

Before, I use crappy oil like WD40 (at least _one_ use for it. Anyhow, one can was enough to keep me off). Between: shop air, rag, alcohol, Noga-deburring tool, file, sanding strips with a plastic "file", scraper. Whatever does the job.

Nick

It probably depends upon the nature of work you are doing. In areospace, edges are usually defined as being maximum of xxx radii, or perhaps a chamfer. Files or grinding discs are usually a bit aggresive to meet these requirements.

Other industries (print spec's) may simply say edges to broken ............if they say anything at all. Then it falls into the realm of "accepted practice". Tool & Die work? Maybe .005 inch max. edge break? Farm implements? Your choice?

I've seen a lot of "die grinders" used with fine sanding discs to break edges between machining ops, then tumbling as a final deburring operation. That's not to say needle files are out of place either.

In a production environment, deburring can include a lot of complicated procedures, and must be included in the manufacturing process.

Actually I have a couple of 2 x 72 contact wheel belt grinders handy, so typically deburring is the quick part. It is getting the vise faces really clean (like no stray specs at all), and ditto for the part that I'm finding the really time consuming part. I'm still interested in any and all suggestions, though.

Thanks to all respondents,

Adam Smith Midland, ON

I have a shop vac and a paint brush for fine chip cleanup on the mill. Works good for me. A roll of paper shop rags supplement the ususal shop rags used to wipe clean the table, vise surfaces. But I use little in the way of spray coolant so that's not a problem Drill chips require a different approach. Just knock 'em out of the way and sweep afterwards

ED

--I've got a variety of methods, depending on the situation. The basic: single-cut flat file to break edges. Beyond that: I like to use the

3M "fuzzy wheel" which is *very* effective and fast when working aluminum, steel, brass. For titanium and steel I switch to a bench-mounted belt grinder, followed by wire wheel and fuzzy wheel as needed. --If you're talking "cleaning", if I don't use a spray bottle full of alcohol I usually take the parts to the kitchen sink and use Joy dish soap and hot water. --If I'm doing a bunch of parts for a production run there's only one choice: chuck 'em in the vibratory deburring machine and come back a few hours later. --To get an interesting texture on parts that I plan to have anodized I sometimes use a jitterbug sander on flat parts, or chuck 'em in the tumbler.

Well, you could go with a really high volume flood coolant system which would essentially wash away all the chips, then an air hose would quickly dry the vise, part, etc. This would probably require the machine be totally enclosed to contain the coolant splash, etc. Also, the air would probably become pretty 'thick' from the mist. Some of the larger shops doing this have to have special air handlers to control the mist.

If I am doing aluminum, I always wipe the part and the vise jaws with my fingers to remove all tiny chips. I also wipe down the parallels or whatever is supporting it.

If the workpiece is steel, I can't do that due to the slivers, so I have to use a paper towel. After 99% of the debris is removed, I then often still wipe one last time with my fingers.

I never blow chips of the machine or the work with air, because I don't know where the chips will end up. Inside the machine, in some electrical gear, whatever. I do use a shop vac quite a lot for cleanup, though. I think that is a much safer way to clean up a mound of chips.

Jon

Hi Jon,

What you describe is pretty much what I've been doing. From the various responses it sounds like there may be better answers for high volume production, but not really for HSM or other one-off / small production situations.

Adam Smith Midland, ON

I have a deburring wheel on an inexpensive grinder right by the mill. For heavier burrs, I'll use the disc sander. To clean the mill vise I use a Shop-Vac with the 1-1/4" adapter followed by the long tiny nose that can also fit neatly down into the T-slots on the mill. After I get most everything up, I wipe with a shop rag if one's handy, or a finger. It doesn't take that long.

GWE

^^^^^ YOW! Not ME! There's _always_ just one "rat's tooth" waiting down there in a crevice to get me. It _never_,_ever_ fails.

LLoyd

Airgun and a Vargas Shaviv deburring tool. I blow of the part while in the vise, then clean off the vise with air too. The deburring tool is only about $7 and works when a perfect chamfer is not necessary. With a little practice the deburring tool can produce pretty even 'chamfers' with a steady hand.

I keep several files handy for itty bitty parts that need precision edge breaking.

StaticsJason

Depends on the chips I make. Some of them I really _grab_ with my hand, other's I don't touch at all. Anyhow, the tweezers are in the upper drawer front left. Always. ;-)

Nick

...

For removing tiny splinters, a good caliper works better than tweezers.

-jiw