I would like to do starting with a pony motor, actually. I have a couple of crap 1/4 HP motors (actually broken vacuum pumps), which I can possibly use, I have to open the pumps to see if the motors have shafts etc, but I think that they do. I also have a 1/2 HP Dayton gearmotor with a removable gear part, I could use that if 1/4 HP is not enough or if the pumps are directly coupled to the rotor without a bearing in between.
So start capacitors are not necessary.
As for run capacitors, I looked at ebay and saw some caps such as this one:
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and I can have a 100 mF and a 60mF on every leg, which would make my cost about $60 for caps. That would mean that I will have a 10 HP phase converter for $160 plus the cost of electrics (which usually is rather substantial).
i
Advise you take a close look at the starting capacitor arrangement used in the wood working article you cited. A momentary push button to start and some free caps is a lot better than a klunky pony moror.
I think of a rotary phase converter consisting of a three phase motor as a motor generator. Of course I think of a single phase motor as a motor generator too. Works for me, but apparently not for a lot of people. If you did not have the back EMF generated in a motor, the motor would draw a huge amount of current.
You might want to consider that a induction motor that is driven acts as a induction generator. Jim Pentagrid has posted some very accurate information about induction generators. To summarize, they are very load sensitive if they are used as a stand alone generator. But if they are connected to the power grid, they work very well.
So you can make a motor generator using a single phase motor driving a three phase motor which has one phase connected to the same single phase that drives the single phase motor. Nota Bene In order to actually be driving the three phase motor, you have to drive it faster than the rpm that it would run at when running on single phase as a idler. The way to do this is with a belt drive. One pulley should be a variable pulley. So one can measure the current drawn by the single phase motor and adjust the pulley so the single phase motor draws its nameplate current or somewhat less.
This is the way to make a phase converter for driving something as a surface grinder that is sensitive to variations in torque.
I made one like this some twenty years ago to run a centerless sander. Worked slick. The single phase motor worked as a pony motor to start the three phase motor and then drove the three phase motor to produce a better three phase than most rotary three phase converters.
Dan
Robert Sw> What Grant said . . . a single phase motor driving a generator would, in
This is a really interesting suggestion. What size motors did you use? I can get a 2.5 hp three phase motor free, and a 3/4 hp single phase motor for little money. How do you think this would work? From what I've read phase convertors are pretty forgiving about the size of motors used.
That's a really interesting suggestion. What size motors did you use? I can get a 2.5 hp three phase motor free, and a 3/4 hp single phase motor for little money. How do you think these would perform in a phase convertor? From what I've read phase convertors seem quite forgiving when it comes to the size of motors used.
The motors I used were a 7.5 hp three phase motor and a 2 hp single phase motor. My motor picks were dictated by what I had available, but seemed to work well. The centerless sander had a 5 hp main drive motor and a couple of smaller three phase motors.
I think a 3/4 hp single phase and a 2.5 hp three phase motor should also work well.
If you do a' little googling on induction generators, you will find they are not uncommon. But mostly used on things as street cars when braking.
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