And not the stuff most drug stores sell as rubbing alcohol which is
labeled as 70% Isopropyl alcohol. They don't say what the other 30%
might be - Maiden water? I got Isopropanol from a local shop which
is labeled as 99% - see:
I hope you realise it is against the law in some jurisdictions to use
WIRE ignition leads because of there interference they cause.
Why don't you stop being a skin flint and just buy new proper leads?
Spiral wire core is legal in ALL jurisdictions as they are the BEST
RFI suppression wires available. They are STANDARD EQUIPMENT on most
higher end vehicles today.
Also known as Magnetic Suppression wire.
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Thanks, to whomever enlightened John G. I was just going to explain that
you can't buy the mid-90's ford clip-on Coil terminals by themselves & I
don't think anybody kits them with wire core wires.---besides that, I
should have been posting on rec aviation homebuilt--but there's a lot
more guys on this gp that remove silicone grease.--Jerry
I'm curious how silicone grease got on the wire ends in the first place.
Anyway, VM&P Naptha or even paint thinner will dissolve silicone grease,
and will swell the silicone rubber if too much is absorbed. The solvent
will evaporate without much effect on the rubber. I'm probably not
understanding your situation as the grease could just be wiped off, or
is it stained or something?
In airfield lighting, silicone grease is applied to wire insulation
for the installation of neoprene insulation sleeves over termination
of 5Kv cabling. The cables are now suitable for direct burial or water
It depend on how clean you need the wires. Getting all the silicone
grease off can be done using vapor degreasing with trich. But it
isn't quick and easy. I would use lots of paper towels to get the
wire ends fairly clean.
Can you please tell us why you need to remove the grease from ignition
It was put there for a purpose and Ican see no valid reason to remove it
unless you want to use the wire for some other purpose and if it is
still Hi voltage work?
Wots your real problem?
I was waiting for someone to say Freon or chloroform, because my next
question was going to be where to get it. Those are the solvents that are
used to disperse high-performance silicones in medical-equipment manufacture
and they're both effective. But they're not usually easy to get. Where do
you get yours, Ernie?
Depending on the carrier used for the silicone, easier-to-get toluene and
xylene often work, and I've found both in paint stores. But my supply is
probably 10 years old, and they may not be easy to get these days. I usually
use xylene and it cuts most silicones pretty effectively. But if you can get
chloroform, and if you follow safety precautions with it, that's probably
the most available solvent that's nearly universal. It can kill you, but it
interesting discussion. ya learn something new every day. i gobbed up the
trailer plug on my pick up truck w/ silicone grease (to keep out moisture,
prevent corrosion). now i'm hoping doing that was ok. thing was though,
careful as i was trying to be, that grease got all over, tiny spots. i
found it was difficult to get off and once i got it on something it was
impossible to make anything (electrical tape, etc.) stick to it. very pesky
stuff. had no idea it required special solvents to get it off.
i saw a "how it's made" thing on tv about building corvettes, they showed
the paint shop, you had to enter it through a clean room. they specifically
mentioned silicone as something that REALLY messes up their urethane paint
jobs. environmental or ambient (can't think of the proper term, silicone
that's out in the world) was something they were battling against. said
even a microscopic amount can screw up a corvette's paint job. just
interesting trivia. well, so, now that i got miniscule blobs of silicone
grease all over my truck, and if i ever am trying to put some paint on it,
now i'll know what to use to get it off. thanks.
(this is embarrassing, once i worked in a place that made fiber reinforced
polyester stuff. we had a fiberglass/silicone mold, the silicone wasn't
properly "keyed" to the fiberglass and was flopping around inside the mold.
it was ME who came up with the bright idea of using silicone caulk to glue
the silicone to the fiberglass. that worked, more or less, but we didn't
know that the areas where we gobbed the silicone would somehow permeate
through the silicone mold material and retard the cure of the polyester.
the polyester cured everywhere except where the silicone was applied to the
fiberglass mold. it was a DISASTER and I was responsible for it. it was
awful. must've been hundreds of dollars in materials and hundreds of
dollars in labor. and that's not to mention cleaning the mold. i don't
even know if it ever was successfully cleaned, maybe the silicone caulk
destroyed the mold. oy.)
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