Hello, rbt and rcm readers.
Here's my method for threading 14 gage stainless spokes with the Hozan spoke threader. It looks like the hardened dies will work for now. They may not live through an entire wheel set of spokes, as reported by others. I haven't done a whole wheel yet.
Required: Stainless spokes 14 gage Spoke Cutter or nail nipper Bench grinder or drill press with grinding stone and wire brush wheel or small sharpener or sander (not oscillating) Electric hand drill (optional) Sulfur base EP thread cutting oi 2-56 die stock and holder Drill press or shop square Hozan threader Micrometer or possibly digital caliper
Method: Remove head Clean head of chips by shaking in solvent bottle Install head Measure spoke diameter and compare to purchased 14 gage spoke Stop if too large--you can ruin the rollers Cut spoke to 3mm extra length plus thickness of die stock (probably
6mm) Grind spoke as shown inDiscussion:
The ground taper is important to start the die. You can chuck the spoke in an electric hand drill and keep it moving on the grinder to get an even 3mm point. The die threads are important to start the rollers; they can thread double start if you skip that step. Cleaning and oiling between steps is important to prevent roller stall by chips. A roller stall can grind a flat spot in a roller, making it useless. You can sneak up on the required head setting if you aren't sure about the torque. If the rollers really stall, take the nuts and rollers off the head and clean them. Reinstall with the proper gap between nuts and rollers; don't tighten the nuts.
A drill press chuck will receive the head end of the spoke. You can guide the spoke with a drill chuck held in your hand or a hand electric drill using the threading head only, rotating the head 120 degrees and lining up the spoke with a slot in the head, turning the spoke into the head about 180 degrees, then rotating the hea. You can't line up a die very well with just a square since it has handles 180 degrees apart, so putting the die stock on a drill press table and chucking the spoke unpowered can help prevent a drunken thread.
It takes a hell of a long time. Carry extra spokes. They are so light and strong they are worth it. Spoke making is a shop procedure. You need references surfaces and more that isn't available when touring.
I am looking for a set of carbide Spiralock rollers for this threader. I am lookng for replacement rollers; there's no need to buy a whole head assembly.
I am looking at making an oil-submerged thread head holder that takes power from an electric screwdriver. Lubrication is important!
Doug Goncz Replikon Research Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394