Spoke Threading Method

Hello, rbt and rcm readers.

Here's my method for threading 14 gage stainless spokes with the Hozan spoke threader. It looks like the hardened dies will work for now. They may not live through an entire wheel set of spokes, as reported by others. I haven't done a whole wheel yet.

Required: Stainless spokes 14 gage Spoke Cutter or nail nipper Bench grinder or drill press with grinding stone and wire brush wheel or small sharpener or sander (not oscillating) Electric hand drill (optional) Sulfur base EP thread cutting oi 2-56 die stock and holder Drill press or shop square Hozan threader Micrometer or possibly digital caliper

Method: Remove head Clean head of chips by shaking in solvent bottle Install head Measure spoke diameter and compare to purchased 14 gage spoke Stop if too large--you can ruin the rollers Cut spoke to 3mm extra length plus thickness of die stock (probably

6mm) Grind spoke as shown in
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Clean and lubricate die and spoke with threading oil Using drill press (unpowered) or square to align, thread end so that 3mm point sticks out of die Clean spoke Mark spoke with ink or tape at 12 mm or 16 mm engagement plus 3mm point plus thickness of die full depth (probably 6mm or 1/4 inch) plus 6mm roller length Lubricate threading head and spoke with threading oil Thread to mark making sure rollers bottom against head, not nuts wathing for roller stall slowly (it only takes hand torque) Back out watching for roller stall Clean spoke of oil and chips Cut off extra length Grind square to length Finish with 2-56 die half depth of die Power wire brush to remove burrs, chips, and grit Measure thead OD, compare to commercial spoke Test fit a nipple and adjust head if needed or use shadowgraph/thread or record player needles microscope or hold spoke to bright background if you are nearsighted to get profile adjusting head nut by only 5 degrees Apply spoke prep (optional) Use or store spoke Remove head Clean head of chips by shaking in solvent bottle Store head or install and repeat

Discussion:

The ground taper is important to start the die. You can chuck the spoke in an electric hand drill and keep it moving on the grinder to get an even 3mm point. The die threads are important to start the rollers; they can thread double start if you skip that step. Cleaning and oiling between steps is important to prevent roller stall by chips. A roller stall can grind a flat spot in a roller, making it useless. You can sneak up on the required head setting if you aren't sure about the torque. If the rollers really stall, take the nuts and rollers off the head and clean them. Reinstall with the proper gap between nuts and rollers; don't tighten the nuts.

A drill press chuck will receive the head end of the spoke. You can guide the spoke with a drill chuck held in your hand or a hand electric drill using the threading head only, rotating the head 120 degrees and lining up the spoke with a slot in the head, turning the spoke into the head about 180 degrees, then rotating the hea. You can't line up a die very well with just a square since it has handles 180 degrees apart, so putting the die stock on a drill press table and chucking the spoke unpowered can help prevent a drunken thread.

It takes a hell of a long time. Carry extra spokes. They are so light and strong they are worth it. Spoke making is a shop procedure. You need references surfaces and more that isn't available when touring.

I am looking for a set of carbide Spiralock rollers for this threader. I am lookng for replacement rollers; there's no need to buy a whole head assembly.

I am looking at making an oil-submerged thread head holder that takes power from an electric screwdriver. Lubrication is important!

Doug Goncz Replikon Research Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394

Reply to
The Dougster
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Thanks for this write-up, Doug.

I own a Hozan spoke threader too, and your description rings true to my experience and reminds me to save up for a Phil Wood spoke threader.

Reply to
dianne_1234

Say Doug, some pictures would be really helpful.

Reply to
Kenny

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is a nice alternative to keeping the heads and threading the ends.

and the OP pic from Hozan.

doug

Reply to
The Dougster

Here is a possiblity for 0.072 inch control rod, not piano wire. Would it work on 15 gage spoke wire?

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Doug

Reply to
The Dougster

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Doug

Reply to
The Dougster

I just got to the "Remove head" part and everything went black.

Nigel Grinter Well-Spoken Wheels

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Reply to
ngrinter

Dougster, Someone told me that spoke threads are upset and not cut. Is that what you are doing? Clark

Reply to
Clark Magnuson

Yes I think a Radio Control RC rod Z-Bender tool would work fine. The threaded rod stock is OK but it is not stainless steel so it would rust on you fairly fast. But otherwise for emergencies or something it would work.

Reply to
Earl Bollinger

Reply to
The Dougster

DuBro's all-thread rod (12 inch length) is stainless. Isn't their 48 inch rod, end threaded, the same wire? It's not stainless? Damn. Doug

Reply to
The Dougster

Doug

Reply to
The Dougster

Reply to
The Dougster

I have ordered 0.072 inch brass wire. Stainless remains a hen's tooth. No wire manufacturers have responded. I am buying retail, at mscdirect.com.

Doug

The Dougster wrote:

Reply to
The Dougster

Have you tried these guys:

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They even have bicycles.

Ron

Reply to
RonSonic

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