Spoke Threading Method

Hello, rbt and rcm readers.
Here's my method for threading 14 gage stainless spokes with the Hozan
spoke threader. It looks like the hardened dies will work for now.
They may not live through an entire wheel set of spokes, as reported by
others. I haven't done a whole wheel yet.
Required:
Stainless spokes 14 gage
Spoke Cutter or nail nipper
Bench grinder or drill press with grinding stone and wire brush wheel
or small sharpener or sander (not oscillating)
Electric hand drill (optional)
Sulfur base EP thread cutting oi
2-56 die stock and holder
Drill press or shop square
Hozan threader
Micrometer or possibly digital caliper
Method:
Remove head
Clean head of chips by shaking in solvent bottle
Install head
Measure spoke diameter and compare to purchased 14 gage spoke
Stop if too large--you can ruin the rollers
Cut spoke to 3mm extra length plus thickness of die stock (probably
6mm)
Grind spoke as shown in
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Clean and lubricate die and spoke with threading oil
Using drill press (unpowered) or square to align,
thread end so that 3mm point sticks out of die
Clean spoke
Mark spoke with ink or tape at
12 mm or 16 mm engagement
plus 3mm point
plus thickness of die full depth (probably 6mm or 1/4 inch)
plus 6mm roller length
Lubricate threading head and spoke with threading oil
Thread to mark
making sure rollers bottom against head, not nuts
wathing for roller stall
slowly (it only takes hand torque)
Back out watching for roller stall
Clean spoke of oil and chips
Cut off extra length
Grind square to length
Finish with 2-56 die half depth of die
Power wire brush to remove burrs, chips, and grit
Measure thead OD, compare to commercial spoke
Test fit a nipple and adjust head if needed
or use shadowgraph/thread or record player needles microscope
or hold spoke to bright background if you are nearsighted to get
profile
adjusting head nut by only 5 degrees
Apply spoke prep (optional)
Use or store spoke
Remove head
Clean head of chips by shaking in solvent bottle
Store head or install and repeat
Discussion:
The ground taper is important to start the die. You can chuck the
spoke in an electric hand drill and keep it moving on the grinder to
get an even 3mm point. The die threads are important to start the
rollers; they can thread double start if you skip that step. Cleaning
and oiling between steps is important to prevent roller stall by chips.
A roller stall can grind a flat spot in a roller, making it useless.
You can sneak up on the required head setting if you aren't sure about
the torque. If the rollers really stall, take the nuts and rollers off
the head and clean them. Reinstall with the proper gap between nuts and
rollers; don't tighten the nuts.
A drill press chuck will receive the head end of the spoke. You can
guide the spoke with a drill chuck held in your hand or a hand electric
drill using the threading head only, rotating the head 120 degrees and
lining up the spoke with a slot in the head, turning the spoke into the
head about 180 degrees, then rotating the hea. You can't line up a die
very well with just a square since it has handles 180 degrees apart, so
putting the die stock on a drill press table and chucking the spoke
unpowered can help prevent a drunken thread.
It takes a hell of a long time. Carry extra spokes. They are so light
and strong they are worth it. Spoke making is a shop procedure. You
need references surfaces and more that isn't available when touring.
I am looking for a set of carbide Spiralock rollers for this threader.
I am lookng for replacement rollers; there's no need to buy a whole
head assembly.
I am looking at making an oil-submerged thread head holder that takes
power from an electric screwdriver. Lubrication is important!
Doug Goncz
Replikon Research
Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394
Reply to
The Dougster
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Thanks for this write-up, Doug.
I own a Hozan spoke threader too, and your description rings true to my experience and reminds me to save up for a Phil Wood spoke threader.
Reply to
dianne_1234
Say Doug, some pictures would be really helpful.
Reply to
Kenny
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is a nice alternative to keeping the heads and threading the ends.
and the OP pic from Hozan.
doug
Reply to
The Dougster
Here is a possiblity for 0.072 inch control rod, not piano wire. Would it work on 15 gage spoke wire?
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Doug
Reply to
The Dougster
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Doug
Reply to
The Dougster
I just got to the "Remove head" part and everything went black.
Nigel Grinter Well-Spoken Wheels
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Reply to
ngrinter
Dougster, Someone told me that spoke threads are upset and not cut. Is that what you are doing? Clark
Reply to
Clark Magnuson
Yes I think a Radio Control RC rod Z-Bender tool would work fine. The threaded rod stock is OK but it is not stainless steel so it would rust on you fairly fast. But otherwise for emergencies or something it would work.
Reply to
Earl Bollinger
Yup. Hozan is a thread *roller*. It takes less work and is faster than a threading die, not to mention the fact that the wire is sized for thread rolling, not for thread cutting. It's slightly smaller than finished thread size. Dogu Clark Magnus> Dougster,
Reply to
The Dougster
DuBro's all-thread rod (12 inch length) is stainless. Isn't their 48 inch rod, end threaded, the same wire? It's not stainless? Damn. Doug
Reply to
The Dougster
I have ordered the Z-bend tool.
Earl Boll> >
Doug
Reply to
The Dougster
I have the bender and need to order 0.072 inch brass wire. The stainless wire will be very hard to find.
Doug The Dougster wrote:
Reply to
The Dougster
I have ordered 0.072 inch brass wire. Stainless remains a hen's tooth. No wire manufacturers have responded. I am buying retail, at mscdirect.com.
Doug
The Dougster wrote:
Reply to
The Dougster
Have you tried these guys:
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They even have bicycles.
Ron
Reply to
RonSonic

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