Suitable for a countershaft ?

err.. what's a counter shaft?

Hul

Snag <Snag snipped-for-privacy@msn.com wrote:

I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original . Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement countershaft ?

It's a shaft that has pulleys on it for mechanical speed reduction . In this case it has a large pulley on one end that is driven by a smaller pulley on the motor and a 3 step flat belt pulley to drive the lathe spindle . It is also mounted on a pivoting yoke with a lever system that lets you tighten or loosen the flat belt .

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I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly, but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the previous owner didn't know to oil.

Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's some tricky hand fitting involved. jsw

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It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .

i'd reach for 4140 pre-hard for a shaft which wasn't going to be heat treated. 8620 or 6150 for one that would be. annealed O1 isn't much better than mild steel for such an application but if all you have on hand is mild steel or annealed O1 i'd choose the O1.

Well , I had this on hand from another project , so I used it . And it made a dandy shaft , the lathe runs smoother now .

Flats or dimples are a good idea for set screws anyway. That way if they raise a burr the shaft can still be disassembled. Hopefully without the use of a hammer.

Or a gear puller ...

I have an earlier (shipped to Monkey Wards in November 1951) model than that 2nd link , and the side that supports the driven end of the shaft does run a bit warmer . Never been hot enough to burn me though ...

Or a cutting torch - - -

It can't be tight if it's a liquid !