I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have around.
Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments?
Wes
I picked up a sawsall blade yesterday that has tungsten grit for the cutting edge. After having to hack into a brake disk the other day, I thought it might be handy to have around.
Anyone used these things on cast iron? Comments?
Wes
Wow, an on topic question and no replies. I guess I'm going to have to try one on a brake rotor after I change mom's drivers side rotor.
Wes
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Despite the people that claim that all the spam / politcal BS / BS BS has no effect, it does - on-topic posts get lost in the noise.
I don't have any sawzall blades of that sort, but I do have a couple of Remington grit-edge rod saws for the hacksaw, very good for cutting nearly anything - glass, ceramic tile, hardened steel, etc. Cast iron should be no problem, though there may (or many not) be better ways to cut it.
I got a Starrett hacksaw blade (flat with grit edge) and was sorely disappointed with it - the grit peeled right off - I was looking for something with less flex than the rods when I was cutting out the remains of some sorely abused hardened steel bushings which would not press out. The Remington cut them just fine, but I needed to take it very lightly to not cut into the housing past the bushing, since the rod took on a bit of a curve under cutting pressure, even with a high-tension frame.
I'll second that the rod saws are great. I've cut tons of tile with them. I do have a pack of carbide sawzall blades. I haven't tried one yet, but I had a guy here doing some plumbing, and he gave one a shot on a 2" iron pipe. He didn't like it - said it didn't cut worth a damn. I, later in the same job, cut a pipe that was in a closet that the plumber just couldn't fit in to (BIG guy). I used a brand new bimetal blade, and it zipped right through.
When I get to doing the tiling (probably in a couple of weeks), I'll try the carbide blade on that. I was also thinking that the carbide blade might be useful on harder steels.
edge. After
on a brake
I would think that you would have to be careful not to flex them very much side-to-side or risk breaking off the grit. It seems like I always get a lot of this kind of activity while cutting anything with a Sawzall.
Let us know how these work out, if and when you find something worth trying it on again :)
I got a carbide Dremel cutter ~12 years ago, for just in case. It sure saved by butt a year ago when I broke an Easy-out off. Slow going, but it chewed through it. Still worked pretty well afterwards too. What was left of the stuck bolt cut like butter after getting through the Easy-out...
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