using a wire wheel brush with an angle grinder

can you use a cup shaped brush?

Is this a cup-type brush or a flat saucer-like brush?

The answer is never to move the brush out along the arbor, never. Doesn't your brush thread onto the arbor directly?

GWE

It sounds like you have a wire brush intended for a stationary bench grinder, not a handheld angle grinder. For a handheld angle grinder you should be using a cup type brush which normally has a threaded hub that threads directly onto the grinder spindle without any nuts or spacers.

Pete C.

They make a different type of wheel, with a 5/8 nut welded to one side. Just thread it onto the spindle and go. The nut both centers the wheel and spaces it out far enough so that it doesn't rub. Sounds like you got a wire wheel for a bench grinder...

--Glenn Lyford

Also, a wire brush intended for a stationary bench grinder likely has an RPM limit much lower than one for an angle grinder and may fail catastrophically if spun at the 10,000 + RPM of an angle grinder vs. the

Pete C.

Wrong brush. For a plain arbor, get a "Cable "twist. Or, get a threaded arbor standard twist. Or get a "stringer Bead" brush. Don't space a brush on a mini. You'll have less problems and do a better job with a domestic brush.

beginning to think the "handle" should be "stryped"... possibly trolling..... Ken.

Nope, any 4" knot type brush will be rated at least 15,000 RPM. Mine are certified at 25,000 RPM. There's no distinction between plain arbor brush and one with a threaded arbor. However, most people don't realize that higher speed isn't always better for the job. At some point the brush stops cutting and just burnishes. Brushes are matched to jobs by "Surface feet per minute".

I'm referring to the saucer-like brush.

Pray tell, what is "stryped"?

Only use threaded center wire brushes.

Gunner

Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"

You don't really want to know, but if you stay around here long enough you will get the chance to read one of his postings :)

Don't let it bother you, some of the guys just have a short tolerance span and can't keep quiet about it...

of course manufacturers overrate the rpm speed of their brushes (Osbourne and others) . When you drive a wirebrush too fast it breaks the wires off faster with no additional work performed, therefore you need to buy more brushes.

Tony

Oh, no, no, no! It costs thousands of bucks per brush to certify the speed. It's an ANSI/ISO spec. The rated speed stamped on the brush has nothing to do with the best speed for the brushing operation. That's trial and error with a bit of intuitive insight and experience. If wires are breaking off, you're doing something wrong. Unless it's an import.

I was wire-brushing components of my Burke mill yesterday. When I got done the front of my jacket looked like a porcupine. Time for a new wheel. Tom, I'll try to call you next week.

Rex B