Weld on D Ring sources?

McMasterCarr #110 lists them on pages 1373,1381 and 3100.

Karl

Got somebody local who deals heavy equipment? Farm machinery dealer might also have them..

John

I wouldn't trust them any further than I could throw a lathe...

Really, Don -- Northern Tool, some flimsy POS homeowner junk? I would have expected better than that from you :-)

GWE

Oh, now that's more like it! -- GWE

Just a shot in the dark - how about at a farm/ranch supply store - one that supports welding and ranchers... They need that stuff also.

Martin

NAPA Auto Parts. (Not Pep Boys, they don't sell serious parts.) ;-)

Forged Lashing Rings, with weld down sleeves.

770-7607 5/8" - safe load 6,130# 770-7608 1" - safe load 15,586#

I don't know pricing, but they're usually good - and one of the stores on the route between Taft and Gardena is bound to stock them. They also stock the stamped "banjo eye" chain grab tabs.

What I need is 3/8" or 1/2" CRS round rod bent into a long W for rail tiedown points on a Utility Bed. And they either make it production somewhere, or someone has a CNC bender that can whip it out straight on the first try...

I have the Harbor Fright knockoff Hossfeld bender, but it's bound to come out distorted if it's all bent by hand. (Many of my EMT bends need a bit of touchup adjustment, so I know of what I speak.)

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Ill try a couple over the weekend. I need to go to Bakersfield anyways, so will stop in a few.

Thanks

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

LOL Glad Roy found the good 'uns I missed. Northern is only about 2 miles from here, near the bait shop and beer store, so I usually just go there rather than look thru their website or catalog.

I just bent up some 3/8" rod to make the tiedown loops welded to my trailer. They work fine with strap, chain or rope, don't rattle while goin' down the road and they cost about zip. There's about an inch of vertical "tail" on each side, so there's 4 lineal inches of weld securing each one. Ya can't have too many tiedown points on a trailer!

Just because 3/8" and 1/2" rod can be bent cold doesn't mean it has to be. It only takes a minute to bend one up with an O/A torch and a vise. Chalk where you want the bend, heat a region about 3 diameters wide to red, it'll bend very nicely exactly where and as much as you want. Quench that bend in the water bucket and make the next one. You can have half a dozen of 'em made, welded on and painted in less time than it'd take to go to the store.

Even with steel prices as they are, a 20' chunk of 3/8" round is only about 5 bux.

snip

Don't do that!! Much of the rod you get has a higher carbon content than other hot rolled stock, ESPECIALLY rebar!! Quenching will turn it into glass. I have the proverbial 'T' shirt on that one.

That makes the raw assumption that you have the %%$#@%%$! right sized rod in your bin.

Rebar, yes, but that'd make pretty rough tiedowns. I think the roundstock I get is CRS. No mill scale on it. It actually machines fairly decently, welds very nicely, and I can bend it cold after heating and quenching without it cracking. Another clue is that it's in the warehouse with the CRS, not out in the yard with the HRS.

Usually do. I need to buy some 3/16" (about 40 feet of it) for a honeydo garden project, though.

I stand corrected, educated, and thank you for the tip. I tested a piece of my 1/4" rodstock today, and by golly it did get brittle when quenched. I've gotten away with that in the past, but I now would also say test it first or don't quench it. I didn't test my

3/8" or 1/2" stock yet, but I certainly will in future before quenching after hot bending.

Thanks, Roy!

It should be allowed to cool as slowly as possible. Under vermiculite etc. Ive made similar stuff and tossed it all into a bonfire, then allowed to cool naturally. Polishing off the soot is a pain in the ass, but if you have a tumbler or sand blaster.........

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

What I have found is that the "mill" (low end, whatever is in the post) grades of steel can have some pretty wild variations in carbon content. Rebar is the poster child for this but hot rolled flats, angle, and rod are suspect. Cold rolled tends to be a bit more uniform but if it isn't graded, assume higher carbon and act accordingly.

We were working on a project that was done many times before. Ripped the teeth out of 3 saw blades in less than an hour. I quaranteened everything, started running tests. After several hours of tracking things down, it worked out that ONE hot rolled bar out of the 4 that came in at the same time had high carborn. I got that bar and all the parts cut from it out of circulation and things went back to normal.

Quench> >

Yup! Small HF blast cabinet with a TP tools S-25 siphon gun. Very handy tool for cleaning up welds and removing stubborn brazing flux. The import siphon guns are utter crap, but the S-25 works quite well.

I also have a bucket of vermiculite. It came as packing material for some nasty chemical I bought once upon a time. Glad I kept it.