MIG welding cast iron

There was a brief discussion of this recently on one of the groups I read, can't remember where, someone proclaiming that MIG was the answer to everything etc etc... I needed to bend about 50 pieces of 40 x 8 flat bar to a consistent radius (about 9" I think) through about 85 degrees, and was looking for something to use as a former. I lighted on the cast iron formers for an old manual 2" pipe bender, decided to give them a try. I started with the 1 1/2" former, and to avoid making fancy fixtures tacked it to the steel bench and tacked a steel bracket to it using the MIG welder with ordinary steel wire. It worked a treat. The welds were showing a tendency to crack down the centre as they cooled, but had more than enough strength for the job with no sign of failure in the HAZ or the actual bond between the weld metal and the casting. Trouble was, the finished radius was too small :-( Next step, try the 2" former, part of the same set, with exactly the same arrangement. This time, the weld had no strength at all, either in tension or shear, and almost literally fell off the casting every time. I ended up clamping the former to the bench and using weld beads to stop it moving. Good news was that the radius was spot on and the job is done.

Goes to show that you *can* get a useful weld with the MIG onto *some* cast iron, but I wouldn't stake too much on being able to do it every time. To reassure those of nervous disposition, no permanent harm was done to either former, they can still perform their normal duties perfectly

Tim Leech Dutton Dry-Dock

Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs

Reply to
timleech
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Tim,

I suspect that the first was 'malleable' iron and the second 'as cast' even though with the same set.

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

I have found exactly the same, some do some don't. What I have found though when repairing broken castings and so far this works every time if you want a permanent job, is to assemble the parts and stick weld using nickel rods for cast iron. These are expensive and if you have a lot to do it's costly so I stitch the parts with the nickel rods and try to get plenty of heat into the job. Once it's joined and hot I find that ordinary MIG weld works fine to fill up and replace missing detail.

It seems to me that cast when hot is different to cast when cold.

I have used this dodge on some large spindle moulder castings that fell of the back of a lorry with no problems. Just MIG'ing onto the cold castings didn't work.

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

Reply to
John Stevenson

Interesting. I remember years ago reading some Stubs Welding data sheets for CI welding (before they went bust), which for large repairs recommended 'buttering' the iron with the usual Nickel rod, & following that with a different one. It sounds like a similar thing to what you are doing. I can't remember what the other rod was, probably something cheaper.

Mind you, Stubs were rumoured to buy in other makers' rods & rebadge/repackage them & sell them on as specials at much inflated prices. They still managed to go bust!

Cheers Tim

Tim Leech Dutton Dry-Dock

Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs

Reply to
timleech

[large snip!]

I had a crack across a valve seat in the cast iron cylinder head of my Triumph TR3A many years ago, and it was mended by a welder in the Physics Dept. of the University. He heated it up very slowly over some hours in a radio frequency oven till red-hot, then welded it in that state, took it back upto full heat again overall, and then let it cool VERY slowly over some days, to make sure there were no stresses in it. I suspect he used mig, but am not sure. The thing was there was little or no differential heating or cooling in the process, so it didn't crack.

Dave, Bristol

Reply to
speedy

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