Workshop

In my garage extension I'm planning to clad the exposed single brick wall thus:

a/ polythene damp membrane against the bricks b/ 4" x 2" vertical studding held with framing screws c/ 100mm rockwool insulation between the studs d/ either 12mm or 19mm OSB (Stirling board) as a new wall surface screwed to the studding

This has the advantage of insulation while leaving an exposed surface that is strong enough to screw shelves and other fixings

Andrew Mawson

Snip

I'll second the bubblewrap idea : I have an office in what was a timber garage. Atlantic sell a heavy duty bubblewrap faced on each side with polished aluminium. It comes in rolls 1m x 50m with one sticky edge, and you can staple it directly to timber or glue it in place. The aluminium reflects IR rather well, and it's equivalent to about 50mm of fibreglass.

jd

Kevin, Have a word with Hal at

. they have all sorts of rigid insulation sheets some at good prices. I lined the roof of my workshop using

8x4ft- 4" thick polystyrene sheets ex cold storage depot.

John

I lined the walls of my workshop, which has solid blue brick walls which used to drip with condensation, with 2" of rockwool, covered with a board called 'Fermacell'. The Fermacell provides a fair degree of insulation in its own right, more than plasterboard or Sterling board. It's made, AFAIR, from paper pulp + gypsum. It's seriously fire resistant, will take screws with a fair degree of strength so long as you're careful not to overtighten. It takes emulsion paint directly to give a finish plenty good enough for a workshop. It does lose strength if it gets wet, but recovers completely after drying out. I used it on the ceiling also, where it works but does sag a bit between the joists. The combination has absolutely transformed the place, I certainly recommend it. (usual disclaimers)

Cheers Tim

Tim Leech Dutton Dry-Dock

Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs

John

The bubblewrap you mention sounds ideal for a couple of my projects. I haven't come across it locally, so where do I contact Atlantic?

TIA

Mike

Rockwool and similar have a nasty habit of absorbing water. I used and would recommend the closed cell foam boards with Alu film on both sides. Available in a variety of thickness and brand names. Easily cut with an old wood handsaw and then pushed between joists. No sag and the Alu film reflects light/heat well too. From memory I think the 50mm is equivalent to 150mm of rockwool, and it won't give you the crawls either :-) hth

fibreglass.

Bought my bubblewrap insulation off the roll at Do it All but I think any Wyevale Garden Centre or Hmoebase stocks it as well ChrisR

jd

I Would be very dubious about using EPS in anything other than a cast concrete floor slab. Even with fire retardants it will burn. And may be in breach of the 'built substantially on non flammable materials' part of the building regs. as a result of the conversion.

Having said that, I'm in the process of designing a new 'shed' and that will have 150mm of polystyrene foam under the floor slab. The walls will be made of

100mm PU foam cores laminated with Cement bonded particle board. But I've got the freedom (cost) of a new building, not a conversion.

These comments are worth what you paid for them :-( Mark Rand RTFM

Sorry, the sheets I used are not polystyrene but rigid polyurethane.

John

Many thanks to all who replied, looks like I will go for battening on the walls with loft insulation (no danger of it getting wet, and it is quite cheap -I'll need quite a bit) in between covered with ply wood sheets (or shuttering board if ply works out too expensive). I'll use polystyrene or the bubble/metal foil for the up and over door that will be kept opening.

Thanks

Kevin