Alternative to RTV Rubber for molds ?

Silicone rubber isn't all that expensive compared to other options, and it's what the pros use. If you're using a lot of it the trick is to buy it in enough quantity to save in bulk. Hobbycast.net, for example, sells an eight pound kit for about $100. They throw in a bunch of gloves and mixing sticks as you shouldn't reuse them. Outfits like Smooth-on sell about two dozen types of silicone rubber in gallon sizes (parts A and B) for commercial uses. I guess you could arrange for 55 gallon drums if you need it...

Do check out Smooth-on, as there are silicone rubbers that take a day or two to demold (in average temperature and humidity), and others that take five minutes. You match de mold to de job.

-- Gordon

pogo wrote:

options, and

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gloves and

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I went to Smooth-On and can probably spend a couple of hours just browsing on their site! Hobbycast.net looks interesting too.

Can you explain what is meant by the term "draw" in the world of molding & casting. Such as in this excerpt: "... style concentrates on more dramatic shapes with sweeping curves, deeper draws, larger undercuts, and ..." ( I figured out what "undercut" meant - which was going to be my other question )

Thanks again! JCDeen

Draw can be one of two things, usually both have interjoined meanings. The depth of a particular mold is refered to as the draw, and also it may pertain to stiffer or more rigid molds. In this case draw refers to the taper of the original part top to bottom. It can be ever so slight but must be present to pull a part from a mold. In deep molds the draw is , and must be greater even though the mold may be flexible. It is especially important if the mold is made of rigid materials, and the part to be created in the mold will ultimately become rigid. This allows for the part to be pulled from the mold because the part will carry a small taper(smaller at the bottom).Undercuts in rigid molding systems require multiple part molds. Especially true in the foundry business-Sand casting patterns are slightly tapered so they may be easily pulled from the surrounding packed sand(so the metal can be poured in the created cavity. As for molding materials-If you buy smooth on or any other two part mediums you MUST mix the VERY accurately. If not the part will be sticky or just stay gummy and never cure. Use a mold release on the original(dont be stingy). Use the right release for the product you buy. I would suggest that you buy a product that mixes by volume not weight also-Unless you have some very accurate scales. If you want to e-mail me I can find you a product that is 1st time user friendly, and will give you the best chance for success. Plan everything carefully-Plan each step. Those materials are expensive and you will waste time and money with sloppy preperation.

Mark

pogo wrote:

Mark has provided some excellent coverage of the terms. As mold making and casting is a world onto itself, I suggest a good book to round out your experimentation. None are "perfect" but they're a start. I found "The Prop Builder's Molding & Casting Handbook" to be among the better books on the subject, though the two-column layout is screwy and the author sometimes jumps around in his explanations. The old TAB book "How to Cast Small Metal and Rubber Parts" isn't bad, either.

There are also some books on casting and injection molding techniques from Lindsay Publishing. You can get these directly from Lindsay or from Amazon. Not sure if you want to build your own vaccum former, but the concepts are interesting.

-- Gordon

Re-meltable, vinyl. Available in many melting temperatures...

------------------------------------------------------- Ashley Clarke

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On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 23:18:04 -0400 in comp.robotics.misc, "pogo" wrote,

Spread one layer of silicone caulk and then after it sets pour a plaster mother mold around it to support it. If needed, embed cheesecloth in the silicone for strength.

too

would

Since I already have the stuff I might as well try that! Good idea! Thanks!