What are the loc precision type nose cones made of?

Teflon? :) (Sorry, Barry.)

I scuff up the bottom couple inches of plastic real well - 100 or even

80 grit paper - put a couple wraps of tape around the base so the cone fits real tight in the 'glassed airframe, then screed some FNF onto the cone. Once it's applied, remove the cone from the airframe while turning it, then clean the excess off the tube.

While LOC tubes have a reputation for not holding paint, IIRC I used FNF on my LOC cone to fill the seam and have had no problems. So the above technique should work. I've also used the same technique with Bondo (not on LOC cones) so you might try that if you're hesitant about using FNF.

For me, it's strictly the aesthetics - it doesn't need to be fast, but it's gotta look fast :)

Doug

Polypropylene. "Nothing" sticks to them. :-)

This topic has been discussed before in this forum, so searching through the r.m.r. archives will give you some good advice. Here's the first hit from the search of the terms "nose cone flame":

down through the messages for some good tips on finishing LOC and similar nose cones.

Why "flame"? It turns out a good way to prep the nose cone is to run a torch over the surface. I kid you not. The goal is to oxidize the surface, not melt the nose cone. Rough sanding also helps, by giving some tooth for paint and adhesives to grab onto.

I suggest priming the nose cone first, following these tips. Then apply a filler (fill'n'finish, epoxy filler, etc.) to build up the nose cone to match the fiberglassed airframe.

I always used a couple of heavy coats of primer on the nosecones to take care of that. I would sand the nosecone with 60-80 grit sandpaper to make it really rough, and load it up with Kilz primer. The rough edges left by the sandpaper really grabbed the primer. It looked funny the first couple of coats -- like a sweater! But the paint NEVER peeled off.

Automotive paint companies make special primers for this type of plastic. This is similar to the type of plastics used to make automobile interior trim. Replacement parts are usually only sold in one color, so autos damaged in wrecks have to have these one-color-fits-all parts painted to match the existing interiors. In order for the paint to stick, they use the special primers.

These special primers are available anywhere autobody paint and supplies are sold in spray cans or some vendors have pints and quarts. All it takes is a few light coats after wiping the part with the right prep solvent. I believe one company that makes the primer is MarHyde. But I am pretty sure 3M, PPG, DuPont and Ditzler have their own brands.

Thanks, These are great ideas-I think I'll try them all. Not on the same rocket of course. I appreciate the help.

I got so tired of the endless prep work required on ACE/LOC/PML/etc plastic nose cones that I finally just started using fiberglass for all of my HPR rocs.

Everything I build is scratch anyway so the switch wasn't that big of a deal for me.

I suspect that the rocket companies could make a few extra bucks by offering fiberglass cones as an upgrade to their kits.

Now, for my upcoming L3 I am planning a rocket with no nose cone at all! The motor mount will be supported by the TTW fins and the air will flow right through the airframe. The recovery system will be contained in a separate pod. I'm still working on the design but think F-100 styling.

Chuck W

Sharc, NAR Section 613

Sharc, we fly rockets so you don't have to!

Auto fascia pieces are treated similarly. They call it corona discharge. It sounds more impressive. ;-)

Mark Simps>

I still have one more mint condition traffic barrel. ;-)

Mark Simps ........