ARM: Review - AFV Club 1/35 scale T-34 Model 1942 - Special Edition

Kit Review: AFV Club 1/35 Scale Kit No. 35S57; T-34/76 Model 1942/43 Factory No. 183 - Special Edition; 475 parts (439 in grey styrene, 11 clear styrene, 10 in black styrene, 10 steel springs, 2 black vinyl tracks, 1 black nylon string, 1 turned aluminum barrel, 1 etched brass); estimated retail price US$50

Advantages: complete interior with clear styrene parts to show it off; neatly done details with very nicely broken down parts

Disadvantages: minor glitches in design and features (see text)

Rating: Highly Recommended

Recommendation: for all Soviet and =9134 fans

AFV Club has now released the third in its T-34 series =96 the most widely built variant, the Factory No. 183 designed Model 1942 or =93Gayka=94 (hexnut) turret version. As before it comes in a regular (AF

35144) and a special limited clear (AF 35S57) version, of which this review is focused on the latter.

Essentially this kit uses most of the parts from the previous two kits (the T-34 Model 1941 Factory No. 112 kit - AF 35143 =96 and T-34-85 Factory No. 183 =96 AF 35145) with three new or modified sprues for the new turret and details and for the pre-April 1943 revision to the road wheel design. The latter used cast road wheels with rubber tires at the first and fifth road wheel stations and cast internally buffered road wheels on stations 2, 3 and 4. The kit provides them, happily with the =93hard=94 styrene black tires and not vinyl.

As with the previous two kits AFV Club has stayed conservative. It does come with actual steel springs for the Christie suspension units; these seem much weaker and should be easier to install without 20 or more fingers. If installed carefully the complete suspension works.

As it shares parts it shares details. Detailing starts with the floor and moves forward. Separate details abound in the control (drivers=92) compartment and include rodding for the foot pedals. Ammo racks are provided with only half a shell; however, since this cements to the ammo rack trays for single rounds, it is a smart way to ensure you can paint the round AND the rack with a minimum of grief. Seats are neatly done with separate thigh pads and even machine gun racks look the part.

The V-2 engine is complete, but is one of the few areas in the model where AFV Club still continues to make a mistake. In the first kit somebody put the original 1940-early 1941 air cleaner (sort of like that from an older American car with a carburetor) on top of the engine (parts A31/A32) but then includes the later =93cyclone=94 type air cleaners behind the transmission firewall. While the first kit did have a changeover from one to the other all of the later kits use the =93cyclone=94 types. I have seen one individual expound on the Internet about such an arrangement being in use, but the factory blueprints for these tanks do not support that claim. As before the latter are not only correct but necessary as the exhaust pipes attach to them on the way to the exhaust outlets in the rear of the hull.

The transmission comes with the odd =93ribbon brakes=94 in place on each final drive/lateral clutch assembly (A43-A46) and the fan is a four- piece marvel of the moldmaker=92s craft. Note that the main clutch is in the center of the fan.

The radiators each consist of three parts and fit as required next to the engine.

While the model still comes with three different options for the idlers and drivers (1940, 1941, 1942 and beyond) only the B33/B37 for the idler and B9/B13 for the driver are the most accurate.

The tracks are a bit thin and floppy, so most modelers may want to use an after-market set for this kit. The AFV Club tracks are nicely done (Set AF 35173) and will be a good upgrade for this kit.

The upper hull, stern plate, turret halves, and roof are all molded in clear styrene. This is slightly marred by ejection pin marks on the inside of the rear fenders, the stern plate and the turret roof; removing them will take careful sanding, buffing and a touch-up with Future or Johnson=92s Klear.

All radiator louvers - intake and exhaust =96 are positionable, but the rear deck is solid so if you wish to display it you will have to leave the covers (D53, D54, D5) loose. There is a single etched grille for D5 which is a good choice. The kit comes with spare track but seems to have lost one of the =93toothed=94 links in the process; the links bolt to the ends of the fender with one =93flat=94 link on the bottom and one =93toothed=94 link tooth up above it. The kit has two =93flats=94 on the ri= ght and a single =93toothed=94 on the left. Possible, but an odd choice.

The turret is nicely done and comes with a very complete F-34 gun breech and coaxial DT machine gun back end. There are details everywhere you look, but the clear plastic turret will cause some problems when completed due to attaching the parts to the inside.

Five finishing options come with the kit, two in 4BO green and three in white: =93Khabarvoskiy Kolkhoznik=94, winter of 1942 (red name on whitewash with green lower hull); White 163, Kharkov, winter of 1943 (white with green patch for bort number); =93Chelyabinskiye Kolkhozniki=94, Kursk, February 1943 (4BO with name in white); Winter

1943 (whitewash overall); Panzergrenadier Division, Brandenburg, East Prussia 1945 (whitewash with =934519" and black outline crosses.

Design of this kit is credited to =93Team Niitakayama=94.

Overall this is a super effort and other than the continuing air cleaner kerfluffle is a winner.

Thanks to Miin Herng Tsueng for the review sample.

Cookie Sewell

Reply to
AMPSOne
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To adhere small parts without scarring the plastic as would happen if regular plastic glue is used the adhesive I use is Acrylic Sludge <

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> . Quote: "SLUDGE is the newest Tri-Art acrylic to hit the shelves. It is a by-product of acrylic paint manufacturing. It is the combination of the precipitated solids amassed from our wash water, which has then been re-processed into thick and thin acrylic paint formats."

Put a blob of SLUDGE on the part as well as on the surface it is to be attached to. It will take more than 10 minutes to dry somewhat. Therefore lay it level so that the part won't slide out of position. SLUDGE is exactly the same stuff as acrylic paint. It will dry into a thin meniscus that will be practically invisible. The best part is you can paint the small part to its finished colors then apply SLUDGE onto the painted surface. Sludge won't dissolve the paint or smear it. If you don't like the positioning of your part just pull it off (the adhesion is stronger than your think) and rub off the "skin." You may not even need to do this. The painted surfaces won't be affected. Then reapply to new position. SLUDGE is excellent for attaching small pre-painted parts like small arms, water canteens, bayonets, etc. to figures or boxes, tarps, bags, tools, etc. to armor vehicle surfaces.

The other excellent application is for attaching clear plastic cockpit canopies and windshields. SLUDGE won't fog the clear plastic and yet provides very strong adhesion. It will also fill paper thin gaps.

The final application is to adhere different materials to each other such as wood to metal to plastic to ceramics to paper. If that material can accept acrylic paint SLUDGE will adhere to it.

Reply to
PaPa Peng

PaPa Peng,

Sounds almost like it is thickened Future from the description -- watch glue or Kristal Kleer might also work out okay.

Steve Zaloga took one of the -85 kits and is doing it up as a solid color cutaway like those in the "Osprey New Vanguard" center spreads

-- may be the best way to solve the problem.

Cookie Sewell

Reply to
AMPSOne

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