you are right about the dragon t-34/76, it is a nice kit to build. i haven't tackled the tracks yet but i will use your mthod from the review. a couple of questions; any suggestions for detailing, and is mm russian armor green a good base for a white winter scheme? and what is that wierd lattice work on the box art? if you're too bust to deal, i'll understand. i do like your reviews and builds. helps a bonehead like me learn.
cookie s
Mar 05, 2005
8 Replies
If you are going to do a white-wash winter scheme...look into the method that Mr. Mrosko uses in his book. Paint the vehicle the dark green. Let it set for a few days, so it is nice and cured. Then, airbrush on, in a "haphazard" manner, the white (use acrylic). Then, a.s.a.p., take a large, stiff brush, moistened with alcohol, and "drybrush away" some of the white. Go from top to bottom, "eroding away" the white. You will get a nice, weathered white-wash finish.
do i randomize the direction of the wash or do like gravity, top to bottom? oh, duh, top to bottom, damn glasses. that sounds good greg. any special treatment for individual panels or pieces? what i mean, did certain chunks get more affect because of shape? i'm guess the flow of dirt should go with the forward motion, did weathering get affected by that? your method sounds really good, can't wait to try. but i think i'll practice on a junker... danke, greg.
and what is that wierd lattice work on the box art?
Experimental camouflage technique - the intent was that from the air it would like old vehicle tracks crossing the snow field (but that the vehicle itself would be disguised). As you might guess, not a huge success but unique in an army that generally painted them any color you want as long as it was green.
Chris Kansas City
Not *my* method...everything I learned about it, I learned from watching the aforementioned Mr. Mrosko do it. Certainly, he did not "invent" the technique, as its "common-sensical" quality makes one think that *anyone*, who thought enough about it, would come up with it...but his doing it was the first time I had really seen it in practice. He explains it in his book:
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As far as the influence of "forward motion"; it would have some effect on mud/dirt/dust splattering...but I think it would be minimal, as tanks seem to spend a lot more of their time
*not* moving, as opposed to moving...lol.
sp leaving it off will not be a sin of omission? looks kinda dumb to me.
ok, credit where due but thanks for pointing it out.
No, my advice would be if you don't like it, leave it off. It was by no means universally applied to this model of the tank, there were plenty of examples without it. I haven't seen what other decals are supplied with this issue of the kit - Dragon generally does their homework, so there may be other markings on the sheet specific to the references that showed the tank with the false-track camouflage. Point being you may want to do just a little looking for other photos of the early T's to use as a guide. On the other hand, if you're not hung up on modelling a specific vehicle, don't sweat it and you can be confident that there were examples without the marking.
Chris Kansas City
i think there are 5-6 different unit's decals. cookie review said not all are right. i will for sure do some research. it is a damn cool vehicle and some history is always fine.
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