6010 SMAW scaffold tube railings

What conditions (rod size, Amps, etc.) and techniques would you use to weld scaffold tube to make railings?
Standard scaffold tube - 48.3mm OD, wall thickness about 4mm,
galvanised (I think that's 1.5 NPS pipe).
It worked pretty well, but I wish I could consistently replicate the ones which worked really well - "like magic".
No-one here in UK uses 6010 for general use, so I've never seen anyone else using 6010 and likely never will. So you'd have to tell me the first steps.
I can keyhole a plate-butt root with 6010 - that's all my prior experience.
A plain butt - lengthening tubes - that worked well with 1mm gap no prep. and one side (half the weld) took seconds, using a 3.2mm / 1/8th-inch 6010 :-) That was going vertical-up.
It's intersections, where you "scallop" the intersecting tube end to fit against the stanchion (the continuing tube). Fit is variable from touching to about 2mm (given I have to work fast using just an angle-grinder to prep.)
I got best results so far going vertical-down - coped with varying fit-up.
Please - tell me the basics... !
Thanks in advance.
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Why not 7018?
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Container-loads of 7018 available free-issue on this job. I use this for all structural steel - big heavy-section steels. Hopefully it's true that I give a really good result doing this.
Surely they are as unsuitable for misc. improvised fabs. as they are perfect for heavy high-spec steel structure?
My understanding is that if you can't do a continuous smooth high-current "burn" (implying thicker sections) in a neat joint with perfect prep., then it's not the place for 7018. ??
Particularly - 7018's don't like to be "speeded-up" to give a smaller quick-freezing bead matching thin metals - they need to leave a thick stringer for their rod size - run-out at something like half the rod length. Quite a narrow "good operating conditions" envelope? Again implying thick structural steels ???
Another thing - on thinner metals
* you cannot work up high local stresses, as "plane stress" case (as opposed to "plane strain"), elastic flexure will spread stresses, so less need for strong high-toughness weld metal
* for fillet welds, you can easily and economically compensate for lower weld metal strength with a larger bead of an easier-characteristic electrode
If you are doing a dab-dab-dab breaking and restarting the arc to avoid burn-through and build-up gaps, surely for 7018 the shield won't form and you'd get very defective metal - might just as well use a coat-hanger to weld with in that case?
7018's don't like galv. either. Real life - you do have to weld on / over galv. for these improvised jobs. 6013 will do this OK and 6010 blows it away like an airline to a cobweb.
6010 "is like magic" when you get it right for jobs like this - handrails and misc small thin fabs. to "just do what you have to do to make it serviceable" (ie. delegated to you) spec., surely?
I think this is right. Anyone happy to come in with decades of streetwise experience and comment?
Regards, Rich
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About the conditions for 6010 - this is with a welding generator which passes through electronics - not an inherently DC welding generator like a Lincoln Pipeliner or a Lincoln Bullet. Pushing the rod against the joint and keyholing that way is not possible. It has to be "open arc". Even given "open arc" is the only mode available - what 6010's still offer in that restricted range is still great for some applications compared to other rods... Advice available?
I'm finding something like 65A to 75A, and not much "dig" where the electronics offer that selection, seems promising for this 4mm (5/32") tube wall thickness, with these 3.2mm (1/8") 6010 rods.
Something like - draw a longer arc after to striking to get the weld going and "blast" the galv., then close-up and puddle the weld for a decent-sized bead (given cannot force a keyhole for this fillet weld with the "only open-arc" restriction). Go vertical-down - and even then, need to "whip" the rod ahead to keep fusion at but not above the desired - plus pre-burnaway the galv.
If a gap which you can't bridge is ahead of you - run around the continuing tube following the profile of the intersecting tube, building up a bead "buttering" the joint prep., then get your weld on a further pass down that region. ???
In North America, you use 6010 a lot (?) and I would be very glad if you would benefit me with what you know the good operating-conditions to be.
I've just opened a tin of 2.5mm (3/32") 6010 rods too - no point leaving them decorating a shelf...
Regards,
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found videos on YouTube eg. "How To Weld With 6010 and 6011" Very helpful given never seen anyone weld with 6010 and don't know what finished weld is supposed to look like.
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