Cut off saw or angle grinder and disk

I thought I might buy a cut off saw but an old welder friend says he
just uses a thin cutting disk. I wanted it for cutting pipe etc What do
you think?
Thanks
John
Reply to
Underpants
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The cut off saw (which uses thin cutting disks) will give you straighter cuts:
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A thin disk on a hand-held grinder will make your body sore/ache if you have much to do.
"Underpants" asks:
Reply to
jp2express
Definitely get the cut-off saw if you have a bunch to do. I would only use an angle grinder with cutting wheels if the work is hard to get to or in an odd position.
I've wanted to get a cut-off saw for a while now, but the jobs I have here at home are few and far between, and I need to talk my spousal unit into it....
TL
Reply to
TinLizziedl
After owning about six chop saws in my life, I would NEVER purchase another. I went to a 4x6 band saw, and I love it. Maybe not as fast as a chop saw, but I like the cuts better, and the noise, dirt, and sparks factor is about 1/100 of a chop saw. And almost NO fire hazard.
You might consider it.
On the chop saws I did have, I liked the thin blades. Less metal removal takes less time.
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
you need both, use the right tool for the job. Cutting material to length can be done with an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel but it is a pain, not to mention a bit dangerous (hard to hold the cutoff wheel steady and straight) But if you weld, you will want an angle grinder to prep welds and fix mistakes.
Underpants wrote:
Reply to
RoyJ
Not to hijack the thread, but has anyone used one of these over a period of time?
HORIZONTAL/VERTICAL METAL CUTTING BANDSAW
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I spent almost that much on my DeWalt cut off saw.
DJ
Reply to
IdaSpode
"IdaSpode" wrote
I have one, although it is green. I much prefer it over the cut off saw because of accuracy, less noise, less sparks, less dust, and other things I can't think of right now.
I'd never own another cut off saw unless it was a cold saw.
I have cut many a bundle (100 20' sticks) of square tubing in my lifetime.
Steve
Reply to
SteveB
I have a larger version - more cast iron in the frame. What I see as missing - where is the fluid tray - and pump. Hydrological piston ?
Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
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SteveB wrote:
Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn
What kind of blade life do you get?
Reply to
TinLizziedl
A year or three and maybe a pound or two of chips per $25 Lenox Diemaster 2 blade. I spend about the same on blades to cut steel up and rods and electricity to weld it back together.
They can be finicky to get working well but so can the next larger one that Martin mentioned, especially in an open-access company machine shop. They are more reliable in a one man home shop.
I like to see "Doall" or "Kalamazoo" when I walk into someone's shop to use the bandsaw. Mine says "Delta" and it's been fine for home use.
jw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Hummm...mine say Delta, Walker Turner, Emerson, DoAll and Dayton.
Oh..and there is a Spartan waiting for winter.
Gunner
Reply to
Gunner
...
Is the Dayton a good quality 4X6? The Delta has blade tracking adjustments I haven't seen on some other saws. There were some better- looking Dayton replacement parts on my ratty used Central Machinery 3- in-1 sheet metal machine.
jw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
The Dayton 4x6 that I had (the current one is a 7x12) was indistinguishable from just about every import 4x6 out there.
They (imports) are all made by the Red Dragon Noodle and Machine Tool Collective. The only differences are paint, labeling and in some cases..some were tuned better at the factory before being shipped.
The US/UK made saws..the Kalamazoos, the Deltas, the Wells, all are pretty damned good saws. Generally, the only thing you will find wrong with them, used, is worn blade guides and after a couple million cuts..worn worm gears.
Gunner
Reply to
Gunner

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