garage exhaust fan

jeremy snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com (jj3000) wrote in news:3ed9e158.0502041355.2d995314 @posting.google.com:

snip > My walls and ceiling have drywall installed so would like some kind of

How much fan you need depends on what type of welding you do, how much fumes you get. If I where to do it, as I will once the basement is fixed, I would have some kind of flexible hose for the fan to get the maximum workarea ventilation from the fan. I would not keep the car running with just the fan for ventilation, keep the door open. Henning

if this is a garage that is attached to your home , I think the best thing you can do is to install a standard 34-X36 " double pane sliding window , which slides up and down.

then place a $10-$30 dual fan window fan unit in it, walmart target or other s sell it. later you can build a small welding boot or welding hood around it.

advantage of a window over a designated fan you have a link above.

1; you have a window/glass, which will provide needed light 2; should you ever need to sell your house it looks good , and adds to the value, and your garage does not look like a shop. 3 fan can be removed any time and window can be shut = no cold air draft. 4 these fans normally allow change in fan speed (3 speed normally) and air dirrection ( in/out) with a flick of a button. very usefull when you want to extract air from the garage or you want to pump fresh air in from the outside. 5 if the fan goes south, you can simply fit an other one in its place at low cost, if you installed a designate fan you are stuck with the size or hole you cut in the wall.

Looks like a drier booster :-) I think the volume is to small.

How about an attic fan at the end of the shop. These are several feet in diameter and are often thermo and switch controlled. The switch is often just used to enable the thermo. Switches are in series. So one can turn off the noisy (if it were) fan at night but allow it when wanted or needed.

Martin

careful on a few things.

1. large diameter fan blades have more chance of building static charge and then a spark can jump. if you're a serious solvent sprayer then you need a "explosion proof" fan.

1. just calc your garage cubic footage. i dont think you want to match your garage CF per minute, wind tunnel. maybe 1/2 or 1/3 your garage CF for a CFM fan.

2. you have a outlet, now you need an equivalent inlet or else you wont move much air and it will be a "low pressure garage". what i've seen most often is a exit up high in one corner and a inlet down low in the opposite corner.

1. i filter my outlet air before the fan. i had my basement 140CFM unit working for 3 days now and the filter has already turned colors. i sprayed just a couple of items with spray can, and i sprayed some poly from my hvlp. the filter keeps the fan blades clean. without the filter you will get crud on the blades making them heavy and less efficient.

hope this helps some with your project...

Assume a 20' x 20' garage with a 10' ceiling. That is 4000 cubic feet. It would take over a half hour to change the air in the garage. Would this be sufficient for your needs?

Heh, I have a medium duty blower belted to a 1/2 hp motor, ducted via

16" flexible duct (think plastic dryer hose only bigger) to a chunk of 1/2" plywood that's sized to fit just inside the basement windowframe. crank open the window, stick this in the frame, open the window on the windward side of the basement, and fire it up! (intake of blower is ducted to a point near where I weld with the plastic, and I then switch to aluminium semirigid ducting in case it inhales liquid metal.

Hunt around scrapyards for belt-drive blowers, and salvage a motor for it somewhere, weld up a frame and away you go.