Awl--
Used to be a regular here! 'Til I found out I had minimal welding/TIGing talent. :( Still love welding (1997 vintage Econotig, still goin strong), but have been doing more machining for some time. Posted to RCM, but figgered I'd run the "theoretical part" by the mavens here. And also the practical part. :)
Practical Problem:
Someone ripped off my B-tank sweating set-up. Turbo-Torch, Goss replacements are, yikes, $200. I seem to remember a less fancy ditty for $60-70. Anyone know who makes this/where I can get something like this? HD, Sears just have the bitty propane stuff. Plumbing supply houses only carry the $200 stuff.
BUT, Can't I just use my regyoolar O/A , w/ a highly reducing flame (ie, not a lot of Ox so's I don't wind up melting the copper)??? I have various size welding tips--as well as cutting tips.
Yeah, now I gotta lug two tanks around, but I don't do a lot of sweating anyway (this partic. job may req. more heat than propane can give), so maybe I can save some bucks?
Theoretical Q:
Does it make "welding sense" that low ox pressure in O/A would/should be roughly *equivalent* to TurboTorch's venturi-type air, ie, air sucked in or aspirated w/ the acetylene flow? I'm figgering that the TT CAN'T be getting the air a true O/A flame is getting, yet if memory serves, it looks pretty similar/intense--more feathery, of course, but still intense.
Or, another view: In my O/A setup: If I gave the same amount of air that a plumber's TT gets, I would expect a smoking flame!! Yes/No? Yet the TT burns w/ O/A-like blueness, yet, it can't be as hot.
Am I looking at this properly? Any explanations?
Hope I can sweat w/ O/A--that $200 for a new TT ain't exactly burnin holes in my pocket.
Best, and Thanks!
---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll