Tig Welder Selection

I realize this is probably asked often, but I will continue
nonetheless.
I am in the market for a new TIG machine. I am not a newbie (about 10
years experience), so I understand what to look for in a machine. I
found this old thread (which I have attached below) while doing some
research, and it touched on several issues that are related to my
upcoming acquisition.
Here's the deal: I learned on a 1981 Hobart 250HF. I never used it a
single time in AC mode, as all of my work has been steel or stainless
steel, with the majority being stainless steel (.050 through .5).
This machine had the sweet old cast alumimium foot pedal and the three
taps for power output (5-310 amps). This machine had gusto and good
range and control. Keep in mind, I never had any other experience on
any other machines. Why did I sell it? Good question... at the time,
I was planning on picking up a small inverter and keeping with the
times. I also thought that having a machine that could run on 110V
would be pretty convenient for field work. Well, I still haven't
picked up that inverter, but have been using my father's Hobart Tigmate
(aka Miller Econotig) in the interim. Yes, it gets the job done, but
the short leads and the air cooled torch and the limited range will not
work out forever.
I need a new machine.
My options: I have an opportunity to make a trade for a 1993
Syncrowave 351, purchase a used, recent model Maxstar 200DX, purchase
a new Dynasty 200DX, and I've even seen a good price for a used Dynasty
(and Maxstar) 300DX.
I have heard great reviews on Thermal Arcs inverters, however, so I am
considering one of these.
Oh yeah, I can also pick up a circa 2000 Lincoln Invertec 200 AC/DC
machine.
What I need: Programmable pulse. Good arc starting. Good low end DC.
What would be nice: 110V as optional input power, as I occasionally do
field work. If I invest in a larger 220V machine, I would continue to
rent a portable welder as needed however, and it is really no big deal.
Bottom line, I'm tired of shopping around, I want a good machine, and
am ready to make a purchase. I make my living making things out of
metal, so the machine will be used often.
So, who's got some experience with any of these units?
I'd love to hear it... soon.
Thanks in advance,
Smyths
Here is the old thread for reference, (I'm willing to bet you guys are
still around):
Needing opinion on TIG welder.
All 10 messages in topic - view as tree
From: Limey - view profile
Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am
Not yet rated
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Hi, I am hoping to get some advice or suggestions about what would be
the best kind of TIG welder for my application, bearing in mind that I
am a 'wannabe' at this point, not a 'weldor'.
My plan is to build bicycle frames, using .035 wall 4130 tubing, so I
don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the
machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material.
Cost is a consideration but it is not the bottom line. I'm 59, so I
don't see as well as I used to and will need all the help I can get
from the machine.
At this point the Miller Maxstar 91 is looking pretty good but I spoke
to a couple of local dealers, neither of whom carried this model and
one told me that what I really needed was the EconoTIG, the other said
the Syncrowave 180. (I don't believe either of them)
In the 'options' for the Maxstar they list a 'TIG pulsing control' and
a 'High frequency arc starter'. Since I am a newbie, that goes right
over my head.
If anyone could offer me an opinion here, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks.
Lewis. "Benbrook's Best 'Bent Bicyclist"
* Sent from RemarQ
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Reply
From: Roger Duncan - view profile
Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am
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They are giving you good advice just not telling you why.
You are talking about welding thin aluminum for that you need a
machine that puts out square wave ac current or the equivalent
term from that manufacture. From Miller Syncrowave machines put out
square wave AC. The machines you wanted put out
DC that doesn't have the desired cleaning effect when welding
aluminum. You can weld aluminum with a dc welding machine
but that process I believe is for thick material.
In December aluminum welding was a big topic at this news group.
Reply
From: Limey - view profile
Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am
Not yet rated
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Hi, Roger, I think you might have misread my post.
>> My plan is to build bicycle frames, using .035 wall 4130 tubing, so
I don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the
machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material. machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material.
Back to the bike frames.
For 0.035" steel tubing you will need a machine with better low end
control than the Miller Econotig
can deliver.
I know, I owned one for 5 years.
The other 2 machines in this category , the Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
and the Lincoln SW 175 have
better control and features, but don't have the really fine control or
optional features of either
the inverter machines or the bigger transformer machines.
I think you do need to go to an inverter machine or a larger 220v
machine.
Quite honestly I have welded just about everything with TIG and I have
used over 2 dozen different
machines.
These are features that you should look at.
Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work.
A thumb wheel or thumb slider can be used, but a foot control allows
more precise adjustment as you
go.
Lift Arc start - If you are going for a DC only Inverter then lift-arc
start is the way to go.
It gives excellent control over arc starting especially in tight
spaces.
Lift-arc start actually makes a thumb wheel or thumb slider much more
practical since you are less
likely to zap yourself, as I have done with a thumb wheel and high
frequency start.
Pulse Unit - this pulses the amperage of the arc and can be adjusted
for: pulses per second,
percentage of background amperage ( in other words: the low end of the
pulse is set as a percentage
of the max amperage), and the percentage of on-time ( these means how
long the pulse says at the top
of the pulse cycle).
For thin metal a pulse unit is a godsend.
Example:
I have been teaching my students how to weld bandsaw blades, and the
Syncrowave 351 at school has a
pulser and digital readout that make this very easy.
Bandsaw blades range from 0.020" to 0.045" thick.
For a 1" x 0.035" bandsaw blade for our cutoff bandsaw, I set the
machine for 25 amps (digital
readout), and the pulser for 2 pulses per sec., with 20% on time (20%
of 1/2 sec. = 0.1 sec.) and
background amperage at 50%(25 amps).
Slowly walk the arc down the seam in a straight line while feeding in
some 0.035" 316L filler rod.
The pulser does most of the work, and the weld bead goes all the way
through the blade.
Smooth off the weld bead with a flapper disc, reclamp and anneal to
blue either with the TIG or a
propane torch.
(I have the plans for the blade welder clamp jig if any are interested)
Digital Readout - I can't speak highly enough for this feature,
especially when trying to set up a
repeatable procedure for production work.
You need to be able to set the machine exactly the same each time to
gaurantee results.
High-Frequency Start - If you ever get interested in making aluminum
bicycle frames you will need
high frequency output for AC welding of aluminum.
Yes you can weld aluminum with DCEN, but it is not for precision work,
and burns very hot (it also
requires a helium gas shield)
You have not stated whether or not there are elecrical power
limitations to your shop.
Also you have not set a maximum cost.
The best machine for what you are doing is the Syncrowave 350
(transformer - big) at about $3000 or
the Dynasty DX (inverter - small) at about $4500.
If this is high on $ then I recommend eiher one of the smaller
Inverters, or my machine, the
Sycrowave 250.
The Syncrowave 250 ( or Thermal Arc Tigwave 250) is a great machine.
It will weld anything, has excellent arc control, and while it doesn't
have Lift-arc start , it does
have an excellent high frequency unit, all for under $2000.
You can add an inline pulser unit for $300.
A water cooled torch will run about $100 and then you have to decide if
you want to make a water
cooler (under $100), run shop sink water( like I do for abou $30), or
buy a water cooler ($300-$500).
if you are never going to weld anything thicker than 3/16" you could
stay with an air-cooled torch,
but for small work, these can be a bit cumbersome.
Water cooled torches are smaller and lighter.
I do however have a tiny air-cooled 50 amp TIG torch by Weldcraft that
is excellent for micro work.
So if you want to do precision work with an air-cooled torch, I would
recommend buying 2 torches.
A 200 amp air-cooled torch for general and heavy work, and then a
smaller 100 amp (or less) torch
for precision work.
Thermal Dynamics makes probably the best inverter based TIG power
sources on the market, but Miller
also has some nice units.
Just my opinions.
--
STAGESMITH - Custom Metal Fabrication - Renton, WA, US
"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind."
William Shakespear
Reply
From: Ted Edwards - view profile
Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am
Not yet rated
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Limey wrote:
don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the
Willing to bet you will before long. Welding is addictive. Besides,
wait 'til you see what you can make out stuff ordinary mortals have to
throw away.
Cost is a consideration but it is not the bottom line. I'm 59, so I
> don't see as well as I used to and will need all the help I can get > from the machine.
Get yourself an auto-darkening helmet and a 2 diopter magnifying insert
lens for it. Trust me - I know. I'm 65 and have always been far
sighted. Focusing close up does not get easier with age. I have a
Selstrom helmet with adjustable shade and sensitivity. Beauty!
At this point the Miller Maxstar 91 is looking pretty good but I spoke
> to a couple of local dealers, neither of whom carried this model and
> one told me that what I really needed was the EconoTIG, the other said
> the Syncrowave 180. (I don't believe either of them)
I've had my Thermal Dynamics since '93 or '94 and it's great. I gather
this is a hobby thing for you so don't restrict yourself. Versatility
is all.
Ted
Reply
From: Ted Edwards - view profile
Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am
Not yet rated
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work.
> A thumb wheel or thumb slider can be used, but a foot control allows more
precise adjustment as you
go.
This is one of the few things I disagree with Ernie on. I have a torch
mounted slider and find it much handier than a foot pedal.
A water cooled torch will run about $100 and then you have to decide if you
want to make a water
This is the other. I have a C-K air cooled torch and don't miss the
hassle of a water cooler. I've welded a fair bit of 1/2" plate and it
hasn't been a problem. I need a break before my torch does. :-)
Thermal Dynamics makes probably the best inverter based TIG power sources on the market,
I'm in violent agreement!! :-)
Ted
Reply
From: Ernie Leimkuhler - view profile
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2000 12:00 am
Not yet rated
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
> > Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work.
> > A thumb wheel or thumb slider can be used, but a foot control allows more
> > precise adjustment as you
> > go.
> This is one of the few things I disagree with Ernie on. I have a torch
> mounted slider and find it much handier than a foot pedal.
Well I would feel better about it if I had a slider, but mine is a
thumbwheel and is less useful.
I use it about 2 times a year, so it is unlikely I am going to shell
out another $110 for a slider.
> A water cooled torch will run about $100 and then you have to decide if
> > you want to make a water
> This is the other. I have a C-K air cooled torch and don't miss the
> hassle of a water cooler. I've welded a fair bit of 1/2" plate and it
> hasn't been a problem. I need a break before my torch does. :-)
Well Ted I do have a tiny air-cooled 50 amp TIG torch that works great,
but I do too much heavy
aluminum to deal with an air cooled torch for most work.
Aluminum really sucks the life out of a TIG and the AC arc puts half
the heat back into the torch.
That can make a torch get damn warm after a short while.
My econotig came with an air-cooled 150 amp torch and I stuck with it
for 2 years before figuring
out how to hook up a water cooled torch.
Air-cooled torches are better for low amperage and DC welding.
I also occasionally hook up my 350 amp water-cooled torch and weld 1/2"
aluminum plate, and I can't
imagine doing that with an air-cooled torch.
> Thermal Dynamics makes probably the best inverter based TIG power sources
> > on the market,
> I'm in violent agreement!! :-)
> Ted
Now if only they would jump into this small transformer TIG market.
It's always nice to have options.
--
STAGESMITH - Custom Metal Fabrication - Renton, WA, US
"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind."
William Shakespear
Reply to
smyths
Loading thread data ...
I have used ALL of the machines you are looking at. You don't state that you NEED AC for aluminum
If you only need DC then a a Maxstar 200DX would be an excellent choice. I have had mine for 6 years now and still love it.
A Maxstar 300DX would get you more amps, but eliminates the 110v option.
The Dynasties are sweet machines, but have lower duty cycles than the Maxstars. If you want to do aluminum, then go for a Dynasty.
Syncrowave 351s are nice, but REALLY BIG, and they only have a rudimentary sequencer. We have one at South Seattle with that package, and it is kind of clunky as a sequencer.
For inverters stick with Miller. Better units, more features, made in the US.
The Thermal Arc I keep[ recommending is their low end 185TSW because of the low price for the features. Miller inverters are better but more money.
> > Here is the old thread for reference, (I'm willing to bet you guys are > still around): > > Needing opinion on TIG welder. > All 10 messages in topic - view as tree > > From: Limey - view profile > Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > Hi, I am hoping to get some advice or suggestions about what would be > the best kind of TIG welder for my application, bearing in mind that I > am a 'wannabe' at this point, not a 'weldor'. > My plan is to build bicycle frames, using .035 wall 4130 tubing, so I > don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the > machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material. > > Cost is a consideration but it is not the bottom line. I'm 59, so I > don't see as well as I used to and will need all the help I can get > from the machine. > > At this point the Miller Maxstar 91 is looking pretty good but I spoke > to a couple of local dealers, neither of whom carried this model and > one told me that what I really needed was the EconoTIG, the other said > the Syncrowave 180. (I don't believe either of them) > > In the 'options' for the Maxstar they list a 'TIG pulsing control' and > a 'High frequency arc starter'. Since I am a newbie, that goes right > over my head. > > If anyone could offer me an opinion here, I would really appreciate it. > > > Thanks. > > Lewis. "Benbrook's Best 'Bent Bicyclist" > > * Sent from RemarQ
formatting link
The Internet's Discussion > Network * > The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! > > > Reply > > > > From: Roger Duncan - view profile > Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > They are giving you good advice just not telling you why. > You are talking about welding thin aluminum for that you need a > machine that puts out square wave ac current or the equivalent > term from that manufacture. From Miller Syncrowave machines put out > square wave AC. The machines you wanted put out > DC that doesn't have the desired cleaning effect when welding > aluminum. You can weld aluminum with a dc welding machine > but that process I believe is for thick material. > In December aluminum welding was a big topic at this news group. > > Reply > > > > From: Limey - view profile > Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > Hi, Roger, I think you might have misread my post. > >>> My plan is to build bicycle frames, using .035 wall 4130 tubing, so > > I don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the > machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material. Lewis. "Benbrook's Best 'Bent Bicyclist" > > * Sent from RemarQ
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The Internet's Discussion > Network * > The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free! > > > Reply > > > > From: arch weldch lewch - view profile > Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > D-c straight polarity is what you should use.There are some parts on > bicycles that are AL. so you should get a welder with > high-frequency,you > don`t need to be able to adjust the ac current (square-wave).A pulse > welder should enable you to have better control of the heat,it is easy > to tell when you don`t have enough heat but too much heat in a fillet > weld and or lap joint,you probably will not make" but joints" is hard > to > recognise.The condition is called "suck back" and with tubbing you > can`t > see the inside to tell if it has happened or not.A "pulse" does what it > > saids,The arc will turn off and on after the arc starts.Practice on > short pieces so that you can see the effects of your heat. I would > chose > a "foot peddle" control first,then if you have the money get a > pulse.You > can tig weld with a typical dc welder,just buy a torch, flow meter and > all the consumables.You will have to "scratch-start" your arc,you will > not have the variable heat control,but if you all ready have a dc > welder > that will be the least expensive way to go.High frequency keeps your > arc > going on ac (from dc- to dc+) it also starts your arc.You should use > back-up gas too. > To "think" is to question,to observe is to answer..........Pgh. Pa. US. > > > Reply > > > > From: erpblp - view profile > Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > Lewis, > You are definitely on the right track with the Maxstar unit, but if > I > were you and had access to 220V power, I would tend to look more at the > > Maxstar 152. The 91 is a nice unit for very light materials, but also > very > limited on the output. You would be much happier with the 152. > The Maxstar 91 is rated at 90 amps with a 20% duty cycle, while the > > Maxstar 152 is rated at 120 amps with a 100% duty cycle. It also has an > > output range of 1 to 150 amps DC This makes the 152 a much more > industrial > unit. We have these units installed on tube mills where they run day in > and > day out, every day, all day. > You can purchase the Maxstar 152 in a starter package that includes > an > HW 17 Style TIG Torch with a Gas Valve, Work Cable with Clamp, Gas > Hose, > Consumable Kit, Gas Regulator, Stick Electrode Holder and Cable, Remote > > Current Control (Foot Pedal, or Fingertip Type), and a TIG Calculator. > > Stock number for the kits are as follows: > 903509 Miller Maxstar 152 Pak with RFCS-14 Foot Control > Mfg. List Price: $2140.00 > 903510 Miller Maxstar 152 Pak with RCC-14 Finger Tip Control > Mfg. List Price: $2140.00 > > The Maxstar 152 comes equipped with Lift-Arc capabilities. This > allows > you to touch the tungsten electrode to the work piece and then just > lift it > up to start the arc. In manual applications, this is usually > sufficient. If > you prefer high frequency arc starting, there is an optional Snap Start > II > that can be mounted to the bottom of the Maxstar and provide you with > that > capability. This will also provide you with a gas solenoid to turn the > gas > flow on and off automatically. > > 043218 Miller Snapstart II High Frequency Arc Starter. > Mfg. List Price: $ 897.00 > > There is also an optional Pulser available, but I think that you > are > getting a little ahead of yourself. > > 042297 Miller PC-300 TIG Pulse Control > Mfg. List Price $ 497.00 > > Also, the gentleman that suggested the Syncrowave 180SD was also > offering good advice. For the money, you get a very nicely featured AC > / DC > Squarewave TIG unit. This would also be a good choice for the > application > that you have described. It comes as a complete package that includes > the > TIG Torch, Ground Cable with Clamp, Electrode Holder with Cable, > RFCS-14 > Foot Control, and a Regulator with Gas Hose. The unit is rated at 150 > amps > with a 40% duty cycle, and an output range of 10 - 180 amps DC and 15 - > 180 > amps AC. It doesn't have the low end capabilities of the Maxstar unit, > but I > doubt that you will be doing any welding under 10 amps. Pricing for > the > Syncrowave is as follows: > > 903600 Miller Syncrowave 180SD > Mfg. List Price: $1675.00 > > Also, take note that this is LIST Price. Also note that these are > the > prices as of today. Miller pricing will be going up on Tuesday morning > February 1st. > > I hope that this helps you in your decision. Either one of these > units > would be perfect for your application. > > Good Luck! > Earl Pearson > Pittsburgh, PA >
> - Show quoted text - > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Reply > > > > From: BrinkWeld - view profile > Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > >You are talking about welding thin aluminum for that you need a > >machine that puts out square wave ac current or the equivalent > >term from that manufacture. > > He stated that he was needing it primarily for 4130 tubing. Not > aluminum, but > still the features would be nice as his experience grows. It's been my > experience that as your skill level grows, your desire to weld other > types of > metal comes into play eventually. > BRINKLEY WELDING & FABRICATION > Huntsville, Texas USA > (Bringing 3rd degree burns to a new level of excitement!) > Reply > > > > From: Ernie Leimkuhler - view profile > Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > In article , Limey > > wrote: > > My plan is to build bicycle frames, using .035 wall 4130 tubing, so I > > don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the > > machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material. > > Back to the bike frames. > For 0.035" steel tubing you will need a machine with better low end > control than the Miller Econotig > can deliver. > I know, I owned one for 5 years. > The other 2 machines in this category , the Miller Syncrowave 180 SD > and the Lincoln SW 175 have > better control and features, but don't have the really fine control or > optional features of either > the inverter machines or the bigger transformer machines. > I think you do need to go to an inverter machine or a larger 220v > machine. > Quite honestly I have welded just about everything with TIG and I have > used over 2 dozen different > machines. > These are features that you should look at. > > Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work. > A thumb wheel or thumb slider can be used, but a foot control allows > more precise adjustment as you > go. > > Lift Arc start - If you are going for a DC only Inverter then lift-arc > start is the way to go. > It gives excellent control over arc starting especially in tight > spaces. > Lift-arc start actually makes a thumb wheel or thumb slider much more > practical since you are less > likely to zap yourself, as I have done with a thumb wheel and high > frequency start. > > Pulse Unit - this pulses the amperage of the arc and can be adjusted > for: pulses per second, > percentage of background amperage ( in other words: the low end of the > pulse is set as a percentage > of the max amperage), and the percentage of on-time ( these means how > long the pulse says at the top > of the pulse cycle). > For thin metal a pulse unit is a godsend. > > Example: > I have been teaching my students how to weld bandsaw blades, and the > Syncrowave 351 at school has a > pulser and digital readout that make this very easy. > Bandsaw blades range from 0.020" to 0.045" thick. > For a 1" x 0.035" bandsaw blade for our cutoff bandsaw, I set the > machine for 25 amps (digital > readout), and the pulser for 2 pulses per sec., with 20% on time (20% > of 1/2 sec. = 0.1 sec.) and > background amperage at 50%(25 amps). > Slowly walk the arc down the seam in a straight line while feeding in > some 0.035" 316L filler rod. > The pulser does most of the work, and the weld bead goes all the way > through the blade. > Smooth off the weld bead with a flapper disc, reclamp and anneal to > blue either with the TIG or a > propane torch. > (I have the plans for the blade welder clamp jig if any are interested) > > > Digital Readout - I can't speak highly enough for this feature, > especially when trying to set up a > repeatable procedure for production work. > You need to be able to set the machine exactly the same each time to > gaurantee results. > > High-Frequency Start - If you ever get interested in making aluminum > bicycle frames you will need > high frequency output for AC welding of aluminum. > Yes you can weld aluminum with DCEN, but it is not for precision work, > and burns very hot (it also > requires a helium gas shield) > > You have not stated whether or not there are elecrical power > limitations to your shop. > Also you have not set a maximum cost. > > The best machine for what you are doing is the Syncrowave 350 > (transformer - big) at about $3000 or > the Dynasty DX (inverter - small) at about $4500. > If this is high on $ then I recommend eiher one of the smaller > Inverters, or my machine, the > Sycrowave 250. > The Syncrowave 250 ( or Thermal Arc Tigwave 250) is a great machine. > It will weld anything, has excellent arc control, and while it doesn't > have Lift-arc start , it does > have an excellent high frequency unit, all for under $2000. > You can add an inline pulser unit for $300. > A water cooled torch will run about $100 and then you have to decide if > you want to make a water > cooler (under $100), run shop sink water( like I do for abou $30), or > buy a water cooler ($300-$500). > if you are never going to weld anything thicker than 3/16" you could > stay with an air-cooled torch, > but for small work, these can be a bit cumbersome. > Water cooled torches are smaller and lighter. > I do however have a tiny air-cooled 50 amp TIG torch by Weldcraft that > is excellent for micro work. > So if you want to do precision work with an air-cooled torch, I would > recommend buying 2 torches. > A 200 amp air-cooled torch for general and heavy work, and then a > smaller 100 amp (or less) torch > for precision work. > > Thermal Dynamics makes probably the best inverter based TIG power > sources on the market, but Miller > also has some nice units. > > Just my opinions. > > -- > STAGESMITH - Custom Metal Fabrication - Renton, WA, US > > "Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind." > William Shakespear > > Reply > > > > From: Ted Edwards - view profile > Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > Limey wrote: > > don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the > > Willing to bet you will before long. Welding is addictive. Besides, > wait 'til you see what you can make out stuff ordinary mortals have to > throw away. > > Cost is a consideration but it is not the bottom line. I'm 59, so I > > don't see as well as I used to and will need all the help I can get > > from the machine. > > Get yourself an auto-darkening helmet and a 2 diopter magnifying insert > > lens for it. Trust me - I know. I'm 65 and have always been far > sighted. Focusing close up does not get easier with age. I have a > Selstrom helmet with adjustable shade and sensitivity. Beauty! > > At this point the Miller Maxstar 91 is looking pretty good but I spoke > > to a couple of local dealers, neither of whom carried this model and > > one told me that what I really needed was the EconoTIG, the other said > > the Syncrowave 180. (I don't believe either of them) > > I've had my Thermal Dynamics since '93 or '94 and it's great. I gather > > this is a hobby thing for you so don't restrict yourself. Versatility > is all. > Ted > > Reply > > > > From: Ted Edwards - view profile > Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > Ernie Leimkuhler wrote: > > Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work. > > A thumb wheel or thumb slider can be used, but a foot control allows more > > precise adjustment as you > > go. > > This is one of the few things I disagree with Ernie on. I have a torch > > mounted slider and find it much handier than a foot pedal. > > A water cooled torch will run about $100 and then you have to decide if you > > want to make a water > > This is the other. I have a C-K air cooled torch and don't miss the > hassle of a water cooler. I've welded a fair bit of 1/2" plate and it > hasn't been a problem. I need a break before my torch does. :-) > > Thermal Dynamics makes probably the best inverter based TIG power sources > > on the market, > > I'm in violent agreement!! :-) > Ted > > Reply > > > > From: Ernie Leimkuhler - view profile > Date: Sun, Jan 30 2000 12:00 am > Not yet rated > > show options > > > > > Ernie Leimkuhler wrote: > > > Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work. > > > A thumb wheel or thumb slider can be used, but a foot control allows more > > > precise adjustment as you > > > go. > > > This is one of the few things I disagree with Ernie on. I have a torch > > mounted slider and find it much handier than a foot pedal. > > > Well I would feel better about it if I had a slider, but mine is a > thumbwheel and is less useful. > I use it about 2 times a year, so it is unlikely I am going to shell > out another $110 for a slider. > > > A water cooled torch will run about $100 and then you have to decide if > > > you want to make a water > > This is the other. I have a C-K air cooled torch and don't miss the > > hassle of a water cooler. I've welded a fair bit of 1/2" plate and it > > hasn't been a problem. I need a break before my torch does. :-) > > > Well Ted I do have a tiny air-cooled 50 amp TIG torch that works great, > but I do too much heavy > aluminum to deal with an air cooled torch for most work. > Aluminum really sucks the life out of a TIG and the AC arc puts half > the heat back into the torch. > That can make a torch get damn warm after a short while. > My econotig came with an air-cooled 150 amp torch and I stuck with it > for 2 years before figuring > out how to hook up a water cooled torch. > Air-cooled torches are better for low amperage and DC welding. > I also occasionally hook up my 350 amp water-cooled torch and weld 1/2" > aluminum plate, and I can't > imagine doing that with an air-cooled torch. > > > Thermal Dynamics makes probably the best inverter based TIG power sources > > > on the market, > > I'm in violent agreement!! :-) > > > Ted > > > Now if only they would jump into this small transformer TIG market. > It's always nice to have options. > -- > STAGESMITH - Custom Metal Fabrication - Renton, WA, US > > "Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind." > William Shakespear
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler
--Does the Maxstar come with a pulser, or is that only on the Dynasty?
Reply to
steamer
The Maxstar 200DX has the same pulser/sequencer as the Dynasty 200DX.
To add AC to the Dynasty they had to reduce the overall duty cycle.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler
Thanks for the info, Ernie.
Well, the 351 never came through, so I think I'll roll with my original plan to pick up a Dynasty or Maxstar 200DX- whichever shows up first in used condition at the right price. I'm tempted to hold out for the 300 series, but I think I'll jump on a 200 series and see how far that takes me. You had me tempted with the TA185, but I figure my original intent was to have the 110V option for field work, so I'd rather spend the extra cash and pick up this option and have a few more amps to boot. Besides, I already have accessories (remotes) that are for the Miller, and I don't know if they fit the TA.
Thanks again.
Smyths
Reply to
smyths

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