I need advice on doing vertical welds "sealing" between two vertical
butting plates. The welds I am getting are rather uneven in profile,
thickening and thinning along the weld. Not at all an even bead.
I was told recently that a weld-run joining two butting plates with
square edge (no preparation), no gap and no intention towards full
penetration is called a fillet weld, even though it is not "in a
corner". So the overall shape of the weld is the same as a
bead-on-plate weld deposit...
In my work I often have to do vertical welds joining two butting
pieces. An example is welding a piece of angle-iron to a vertical
B B AAAAAA
B B A
B B A side-view
B B A
B B A
B B B
This is equivalent to the "pure" case of fillet-welding the vertical
seam between two butting plates, isn't it?
P P side-view
P P P P
The company uses only 6013 (rutile) welding rods. I'd chose 7018
myself, but all welders are AC.
Any hints on how to get a good even bead? Preferably rising out from
the plate so that all strength can be assumed to be in the above-plate
bead cross-section (no assumption of penetration required).
Thanks in advance
i wont comment on your rods because im not familiar with the designations,
but machine settings are critical. If you feel like you have to 'catch up'
with the bead then probably your rods need changing to a different type or
you need to adjust your machine.... when its all right, its a lot easier to
weld, and getting the right setting can be tricky! most people have trouble
because they set too hot.
for gun technique, its trickier with stick than with mig in my opinion
because you cant see whats going on under the slag. When im trying to do my
best stick vertical up, i use my left hand holding the end of the rod, and
the right hand holding the rod holder. i use really good thick kevlar
gloves, this technique wont work as well with thin gloves. i rest my left
pinky on the workpiece, and hold the rod between my thumb and pointer at a
set distance from the workpiece - this proveds a 'pivot'. The point of the
pivot is important, you can work it out from trial and error though. Then
the left hand stays where it is... its a fixed pivot, it doesnt really aim
the rod at all. The aiming is done by the right hand swinging from left to
right. With this technique, the rod remains at all times perpendicular to
the point that the arc is contacting the workpiece.
I find this technique gives a bit more control, and a more consistent bead
because even quite a large variation in the swing of the right hand
translates into only a very small variation in the aiming of the rod,
provided the pivot stays at the same distance from the workpiece. I use a
simple 'left to right' weave, no christmas tree or anything like that. You
want to spend very little time in the middle - its filled up by the pool
dropping in to the center. If you find that your bead is prouder then you
want, it means that you are spending too much time in the middle - aim for a
faster transition from left to right. my basic pattern is hold left for
maybe a second, flick to right quickly, hold at right for one second, flick
to left quickly, hold at left for one second.... you get the idea. Ive
rarely seen someone who transitions too quickly, but the result is a bead
thats hollow in the middle. while holding at the side, watch the middle of
the bead. when its filled up enough, flick to the other side and keep your
eyes always on the middle. you do have to make an allowance for the slag,
but youll get used to it after a few trial runs.
for the vertical movement, most people step up too high. I aim to have my
next step up burning half into the bead bellow it.... allowing for the slag
as well, that means a very small step up! big steps up translate to a very
coarse looking bead, while small steps mean a very fine one. with smaller
steps though, you do have to move quicker because it takes less time to fill
up. So you may have increase your speed if you have previously been a big
finally, i find that keeping the rod facing slightly upwards helps a bit.
keep practicing and you'll soon have a vertical up thats effortless and
neat - people will wonder how you manage it.
A weld done on a tight butt joint is simply a partial penetration groove
weld. Its strength is limited by the throat of the weld and often the notch
at the root of the weld is a stress riser.
In many cases these limitations are unimportant.
If you are lapping a piece of angle onto the surface of a tube it indeed is
a fillet weld on a lap joint.
Shaun's advice to increase the frequency of your vertical motion at the
same time as increasing vertical travel rate is what I do when the bead gets
too large. For verticals under 1/4 inch leg size and single pass I just use
an inverted Vee motion. The width of the two legs is very slight.
I could not think of a more versatile rod for all position AC current.
The flux is not excessive, it will fill gaps to some extent, and the
penetration is moderate.
I wouldn't say so. A square edge joint could be a full penetration
butt weld, depends on the plate thickness and type of welding. I've seen
square edge full penetration joints up to about 15mm thick using sub-arc
(from both sides).
It could also be a partial-penetration butt weld. It's certainly not a
several great suggestions here already- also try backstepping to control
your heat input. If your base metal is getting too hot, it will change
your bead profile.
When I backstep with 3/32 stick, I usually weld in 4-5 inch beads. 1/8
stick, 6-8 inch beads. Remember, this is about heat input, not
deposition rate. Weaving is out, but do use a slight motion from upper
right to upper left. Always move up. Do not move sideways. Do not jump
up so far that you completely leave your puddle behind. Turn down your
amps and get used to using a tight arc. I never stop moving, but I
never move too much either. It can be tricky, but if I could pick it