Is there anything to put on a weld or even bare metal to protect the metal
other than primer? I know new welds needs to be primed, but i thought i
heard of a product that can be sprayed on new welds to protect them until
primer is applied. thanks
Most of the spray cans of primer i have seen doesn't seem to have much
solids in them. Is there a brand you recommend? I saw an etch primer at NAPA
but I havn;t heard any good or bad things about it. I also saw the Rustoleum
for rusty metal but I don;t know hopw that would work on metal just welded.
Thanks for any tips...
Rustoleum makes a cold galvanizing compound, but it's not easy to find
as a lot of places don't stock it. I know Grainger sells it. It's
pretty expensive, like 40 bucks for a quart. Comes in rattle cans
too. Welding supply centers often sell cold galv. compound too.
A lot of my "day job" is primering steel structurals - beams and
hollow closed sections. I use a roller - long wire handle (about
600mm / 2ft) with cylindrical mops.
The primer is "etching" - it certainly stings if any gets onto your
face and starts to dry there! The grey primer has zinc in it.
For jobs which will be in view, I can produce a finish which folk say
is as good as sprayed-on primer. Quite quickly. For rough-and-ready
jobs not in view where "mustn't give the customer more than they pay
for", can control so the paint is complete and uniform but thin.
In all cases...
Control the paint and its rollering by using a paint tray. Never dip
the roller into the tin to reload it. You want the paint on the
surface of the roller. Pour the paint into the tray, a bit at a time
as you go along. Push what paint you want out of the pool with the
roller and spread it uniformly on the roller away from the pool.
Paint tray - if it's a beam, the channel forms its own paint tray -
just pour the paint into the channel. For rectangular closed hollow
sections, cylindrical tubes and so on, have pieces of Universal Beam
which I cut up with an oxy-acet. torch - ones with tall web and narrow
flanges. Stays where you put it! Worth carrying over (few kgs
When using a paint tray ("self-tray" or separate tray!) can control so
only put paint on one end of the roller - which is useful for
controlling paint going on fast but without spattering or dripping for
You need to control the consistency of the paint using thinners.
Xylene is the common one for industrial etching primers. If you pull
the roller out of the paint pot, there should be about three thin
liquid separate threads of paint running off the length of the roller.
If you pull the roller out of the pot of paint - you have to leave it
in there between jobs so it doesn't dry-out, or when stirring-in more
thinners, squeeze out all the paint by rollering hard against the
paint tray, squeezing all the paint out to one end of the paint tray.
Then reload the roller with paint the same way as you normally load it
with more paint.
Hope you appreciate this folks - I've just told you the secrets which
keep a roof over my head!
Every major spray paint line has a version of Cold Galvanizing.
Rustoleum, Plasticote, Krylon, Crown,...
Cold Galv comes in 2 version in spray cans.
Dull and Shiny.
The dull stuff protects better, and works well as a primer coat.
The shiny stuff is designed to help blend missed spots in new Hot Dip
It does protect prety well, and looks much nicer than te dull stuff.
An example of the shiny stuff would be Brite-Galv
or this stuff
It protects better than most paint in a marine environment.
Oops! Sorry! You want to know about a can of something you can have
in your tool bag for site welding to qickly protect a weld and the
surrounding ground area two minutes after the weld is completed -
before you move your kit to the next weld...
What about WD40 (oily protective spray)? Cheap, and acid etch primer
would chew through that without even noticing it...???