">>I have always thought that woodruff keys were generally only intended to
I agree, I have experience with woodruff keyed crankshaft pulleys. As you say, they are commonly used with either a large bolt or tight press fit so it would not seem to me that the key has to stand much or any of the driving torque. If the press fit or the bolt is not tight enough the key fails pretty quickly.
Don Young
Fixed a late 80s Suzuki Samari crankshaft that had the same problem some years ago by injecting Moglice
into the worn/boogered area.
We drilled a hole thru the crankshaft sprocket that intersected the key slot and then injected the Moglice with an industrial syringe. Once it cured, we dressed the hole smooth so as not to tear up the timing belt. Ran for years and many tens of thousands of miles.
Took what was left of the cured Moglice and set it on an anvil, then tried to break it with a 2 pound dead blow hammer. Tough stuff, couldn't break it.
I had very good luck and excellent service on a piece a bit similar. I had a large stick of carbon that I was able to shape into the "has to fit" part that allowed me to MIG a repair. I would think it would give you good results. Easy to file and shape, a large Universal motor brush might work for your needs.
"Leo Lichtman" wrote > Or, a related idea: Make a key that is tapered, so you can partially insert
Done that. Some Toyota 4 cyls seem to have this problem. A single mom, unable to afford a new crankshaft or even the labor, so I took a larger key and ground it to fit the tapered slot, then locktite-ed the whole mess together. Got her back on the road, too bad for the next owner.
Thanks for all the replies chaps. This sounds like a good one to try first, thanks Dan. I wouldn't have thought about using a bit of carbon only copper and ally.
I always like a Plan B preferably followed by a C & D. Gaffer tape failed me this time ;)
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