My experience with the pre-painted Coverite has been somewhat mixed. I find that the glue that is used on this material is not very strong, and the overlap joints don't seem to bond well. Is this also a problem with the unpainted Coverite? I have been told that the unpainted material is totally different, and is very tenacious! Comments???
I covered a Great Planes Citabria with the painted 21st Century stuff and it was great to work with. Easy and stuck very well. Looked just like the painted fabric on the full scale when completed. You have to plan your joints because they don't disappear like the film joints do.
John: Unpainted Coverite is my absolute favorite: Been using it for ages. Covers well, blends well. However it will be heavyer that the pre painted to mono cote. I do prime it and then paint.I guess I use it cause it just seem a bit more realistic.
On 10/16/2003 3:20 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:
I did one plane with painted Coverite (will never use it again). You will need to use "BalsaRite for Fabric" or Sig "Stix-It" on the airframe if you want it to adhere RELIABLY (not come off in mid air, etc.). I did a scratch built FW-56 (Stosser) with a 65" span in the Coverite. This was a prototype. When I did the final model (all the bugs worked out) I used Colered SolarTex (Balsa USA, etc.). I did not have to use anything on the airframe, the paint did not come off on the iron (sock), it went around corners better than Coverite AND I shaved almost 7 oz off the total weight by changing to SolarTex.
Unless you have already made the investment in Coverite, try one roll of SolarTex (the colors match VERY close to Coverite) and I think you will agree.
As with ANY fabric covered plane, make sure you seal the surface so the oil and dirt do not get into the pores - I use a thin coat of MinWax Poly-Acrylic applied with a foam brush. When it dries you do not see any brush marks and the surface is sealed.