Iron-On Coverings

Sep 17, 2004 11 Replies

Haven't used these for years, and not much ever -



Any recommendations for best adhesion to structures such as an "open" wing? Does Coverite's Balsarite improve adhesion? Other similar products?



Do Monokote and Ultracote adhere to one another well?



TIA...



Dennis


Assuming nothing has changed with these two in the last couple of years, they'll both cover open wings reasonably well, but (looks up at the dozen aircraft hanging from the ceiling) the Ultracote is easier to work with, tends to bubble less at overlaps, is tougher stuff (at the expense of slightly more weight per square foot) and won't sag anywhere near as badly as the Monokote does in response to humidity changes.

As for Balsarite: you don't need it with either of these - and in fact, if you ever want to recover it'll be WAY easier if there's no Balsarite involved...

/daytripper

IMO, Balsarite only makes things worse when the covering already has a heat-activated backing. Balsarite is a "soft" adhesive, and may let go under more heat, like from a shrinking gun.

Ultracote will go over Monokote a little better than vice-versa, since it can be applied with slightly lower temperatures. Either are excellent coverings. Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!"

Dennis

They both are good products. Ultracote is a little more rubbery so some guys find it easier to stretch over compund cuves, however judicious use of an iron will let you cover the same curves with monocote. I have never had problems with monocote adhesion but some fellows complain about edges coming up. In fact I have had better results with monocote than Ultracote in that regard.

As far as putting one over the other, you can do that, but it is easier to put Ultracote over monocote than the other way around because Ultracote won't take the heat that you would want to use to assure good adhesion of the monocote. The exception is if you are using trim solvent instead of heat, then it doesn't matter.

I have noticed that in the case of a post crash repair, it is easier to remove the old monocote. because of its superior film strength you can peel off larger pieces, whereas the Ultracote adhesive grip is stronger than the film and it won't pull up without shredding. .

Ed

Dennis Le>Haven't used these for years, and not much ever -

Have you tried using Monokote Trim Solvent...it's especially design for adhering covering to each other. You don't even need heat to seal the join. The solvent activates the glue.

Darren, Yes, I have used trim solvent. I particularly like it for applying pinstripes so the heat doesn't distort the thin strips of covering. Don't really use it for large areas though, since you only get 1 shot at alignment.

Ed

Darren Earle wrote:

Look at Top Flite's web site. There's a reprint of an RCM article by Ann Marie Cross called "Trim Graphics Made Easy" that has some excellent tips on applying graphics with Trim Solvent. You're right, though, about Trim Solvent only giving you one chance to position your graphic correctly.

Morris

Quick question.... Anybody tried Mono Kote Trim Solvent with other types of covering material? Thanks in advance, Tom

Funny you should ask.....

I just tried this. I'm having a heck of a time doing a "color ove color" scheme on my new project with monokote. I decided to switch t ultracote as it is much easier to apply over itself. Any way, since had some monokote trim solvent around, I tried it on some ultracote a a test.

It did *not* work.

Denni

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Have you tried MonoKote-over-MonoKote without heat? (spray the area with water and a little dishwashing liquid first, squeegee and let is sit overnight)

John,

I've never tried that. What activates the adhesive on the Monokote? Do you apply low heat to set the adhesive after waiting overnight?

or

Are you referring to using Monokote trimsheet?

Thanks,

Denni

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