The hammer in my shop (Mayer Bros., just like LG) was designed to be
run from an overhead line shaft with flat belting. It has been modified
in a non-destructive manner.
There is a piece of 24x30x1/2" plate steel beneath the hammer. Below
the plate steel is wood. The plate steel has holes which match the
holes in the base of the hammer. The hammer is lag bolted to the wood
through the plate steel.
There is a piece of 4x4" square steel tubing welded to the plate right
behind the hammer, so it stands up quite a bit higher than the hammer.
There is a piece of 5x5" square steel tubing which fits over the top
of this vertical piece. On top of that 5x5" cap piece (which is adjustable
up/down and also side angle and front/back angle) is welded a motor and
pillow block arrangement which holds a driving wheel directly above the
hammer's driven wheel. The hammer is still driven by a flat belt.
Here's the motor mounting method that was used on the 50# LG that is in
(see figure #2) It works
just fine, but I have seen many hammers that use existing bolts to hold
the motor mounts ---- and this leads making it more difficult to adjust
Personally, I WOULD drill the frame if I were going to mount a motor
myself. That's how Sid Suedmeier does it when he rebuilds a hammer.