BP Disaster Solved -- giganto pita....



I've had great success using masonry bits for drilling hard steel. It is noisy, but does work pretty enough. I don't bother to re-sharpen the bits for cutting metal, just lean into it. It's useful to use flood cooling, but not essential, so long as the bit doesn't get so hot that the braze lets go.

Hmm. I had one R8 accessory (a one-piece shell mill holder if I recall) that allowed the Millrite draw bar to bottom, so I shortened the drawbar.
I'm not sure if Millrite MVI vertical mills are supposed to have a thrust washer, but mine does not. The manual is equivocal. There may have been a needle-bearing thrust washer. Does anybody know?

Half of my R8 collets are two piece, but none bottom.
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wrote:

That's an excellent tip that I'll have to remember. Also, masonry bits are really easy to sharpen, even without a green wheel.
The cheapie sets of 5 (from 1/8 to about 5/16-3/8 -- 99c in, you guessed, 99c stores) will allow for progressive drilling, as well.
In this case, the only problem would have been their short length, altho I'm sure you can get pricey-er industrial ones much longer, as well as SDS shank, which are pretty long.
And actually, for non-critical bull work, you could just weld CR or even HR rod onto the shank!
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Why not just split the threaded bit off of the end of the draw bar with a cold chisel and a hand sledge? Like on a car with a frozen lug nut and spinning stud.
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On Jan 25, 11:21am, "Proctologically Violated"

This is a good opportunity to TIG the collet back together and then try to break the weld. If it holds or you find a way to anneal them you have a fix for the 2-piece ones.
jw
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