How Would You Make This Part?

1> Hold in vise, machine complete except leave a "floor"

2> Restrain in fixture or via a fusable alloy, in order to mill away the the "floor"

Hmmm... a quality post. Much more so than most of the nonsense than the blow hard tooling salesman puts up and claims is the greatest thing since sliced bread for this newsgroup. You should do more posts like this as it could put some life back into this newsgroup. Can I cheat and discuss this part with my co-workers? Those would be the same coworkers you suspect I'm hostile too but are too lazy to visit with.

Is it a requirement that we have to hold this part in a cheap Chinese Kurt knock off vise to make it?

Jon Banquer San Diego, CA

In other words, you wont tell. Jon, Jon, Jon

Do all drilling and tapping on .690 blank, wirecut.

you can mirror the geometry on a single plate, use the milled holes to help hold the part for roughing and finishing and keep the core for another job

Well, you might as well hear from the peanut gallery first.

1. Find a piece of 3/4 mat'l, larger than 6x3, hold via holes outside the

6x3 dims, face, reverse, face again and drill all spec'd holes.

1. re-fixture via drilled holes, remove bulk of inside/outside material. Then use as small an em as req'd for inside radii.
2. Turn over pc again, to get those little half-depth processes.
3. Mount pc vertically through drilled holes, and drill the two tab holes, and finally mill away that side.

Voila???

Hmmm... a quality post. Much more so than most of the nonsense than the blow hard tooling salesman puts up and claims is the greatest thing since sliced bread for this newsgroup. You should do more posts like this as it could put some life back into this newsgroup. Can I cheat and discuss this part with my co-workers? Those would be the same coworkers you suspect I'm hostile too but are too lazy to visit with.

Is it a requirement that we have to hold this part in a cheap Chinese Kurt knock off vise to make it? ==================================== =====================================

Is it really true, you actually cohabitate with another (non-institutionalized) human being? goodgawd.....

Hey, do I win an effing prize??????

Darrell:

Wirecut? You certainly know how to cheat. LOL

No, wiring wasn't an option in this particular case. They needed the parts RIGHT NOW. Not enough lead time for the wire shops we use.

Didja take that picture in the bathroom at work? I'd mill the OD as a rectangle, drill the .157 holes and the steps adjacent to the side holes. Also do 2 holes in the middle to hold the drop on the last op.

Turn over, face off the slag to thickness and do the steps opposite the steps in op1 Turn on edge, mill the side steps, drill and tap the 4-40 STI holes.

Mill a pocket in a fixture plate to fit the OD and tap some 6-32 holes. Hold the part in the fixture pocket with screws through the .157s Rough and finish the inside wall.

Fred

hey needed the

You didn't tell me that!!! lol I ASSumed I had all the toys I needed !!! HRRRRUUMMMPPPHHHH!

"D"

I would begin with a piece of 3/4" plate for each part, because there's lots of it behind the lathe. ;-) I would square it to the

3"x6" dimensions, face both sides JUST ENOUGH to clean one side complete and make side two ok for sitting flat and drill and tap those two side holes. Next would be clamping the material in some dovetails and machining the profile after drilling the other holes. I would get some bondo and another piece of plate and stick my fixture to the part real quick-like. Once the bondo is hard enough to take a cut I face and square the fixture before flipping the part and using a not-so-big end mill to cut the top edge of the part to the correct height. Some zip strip paint remover makes the bondo go away without bead blasting. Helicoil and deburr at my desk. No print showing super tight tolerances, so if it warps a little I bend it back right. :-0

Later,

Charlie

Ditto! Then chop off the part using my sooper seecret T-slot slit saw = mill (tm).=20

I would get 1" plate, hold it in a vise by 0.2" and finish the part complete but in stead of 0.157" holes I would tap them 8-32. Then I would bolt it to a plate and machine back with a small endmill (not large facemill) around the perimeter. On my mill I would put 4-40 holes in first set up as (5 axis) but on 3 axis it would be another setup. Then I would check it's flatness and figure out another way if there was a problem :) Jerry

Jerry:

Thanks for replying. You meant 6-32 right?

Machine Screw OD's

0 = .060 1 = .073 2 = .086 3 = .099 4 = .112 5 = .125 6 = .138 8 = .164 10 = .190 12 = .216

But how do we get rid of cashiers who can't make change? ;-)

Bob, bob, bob,

I've got a local wire shop that can turn stuff in a day or two. Very competitive and high precision. Next time...

ca

BottleBob wrote:

You're right. Should be 6-32. Unless they can live with a few 0.004" groves in their holes. Jerry BTW. There is more than one Jerry in this group.

Jerry:

I don't think they'd like grooves in their holes. This thing gets gold plated, so they're pretty picky.

Yeah, but the other Jerry I know of seems to only post to the political kook threads. Is there a third Jerry?

Charlie:

Maybe I could work that in there somehow.

Some Watch their change dwindle Others have change GIVEN to them Some MAKE change happen A few CAN'T make change at all

I don't know, I think it needs some serious work. LOL