How Would You Make This Part?



Since we're talking money here, how 'bout "swindle"?
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wrote:

Well, rahcheer on/in this ng we have a fellow who is, on numerous levels, a swindler who cain't lube a spindle (except for maybe his own), and whose credibility has done dwindled to zero a long time ago.
Whose brain might not fill up a thimble.
Is there a lyricist in the house?
--
PV'd



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It's a start. Where it goes from here, well, I've not a clue.
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You're right. Should be 6-32. Unless they can live with a few 0.004" groves in their holes. Jerry BTW. There is more than one Jerry in this group.

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Jerry wrote:

Jerry:
    I don't think they'd like grooves in their holes. This thing gets gold plated, so they're pretty picky.

    Yeah, but the other Jerry I know of seems to only post to the political kook threads. Is there a third Jerry?
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Let me rephrase:
I WANT MY PRIZE!!
Thank you.
--
PV'd



"BottleBob" < snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net> wrote in message
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DrollTroll wrote:

DT:
    My question was how would OTHERS make this part, not how *I* made it. So EVERYONE that posts a viable process for making this part deserves a PRIZE, eh?     The "PRIZE" would consist of the respect of your peers for formulating a well thought out & reasonable plan to produce a good part to print. So those that posted, or possibly will post, a procedure the could make the part is an automatic WINNER!     I'll relate my own trials and tribulations (boo-boos & corrections) concerning making the part probably later today.
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Yeah, yeah, yeah....
So will my prize at least be bigger than the other prizes??
Can I request a substitute? How bout a 5 gal pail of Prep H? I'm running low.... been a rough week....
Plus with Palin, I think ahma really haveta slap dat H on thick..... She scares me so bad, I just sent the Obama-rama-ding-dong camp another $50....
--
PV'd



> I'll relate my own trials and tribulations (boo-boos & corrections)
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wrote:

What are the corner radiuses?
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Tom:
    I'm sorry, I forgot to put than in the original data. They're 1/16"
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Step 1.) Square up the two blocks on a mill, finish the thickness to size, leave the sizes .1 big approx or more. Leave an extra .5 on the long side for holding purposes later. While in the mill cut the 2/4 pockets in the corners and do the holes. Lay the block on its side and do the 2 tapped holes on the side.
Step 2.) Wire edm 1 pass finished with the reisitivity set high so the aluminum wont ruin the resin. (try to use at least .010 diameter coated wire if possible, and if it doesn't have to be dimensionally accurate, cut the wire feed speed in half to save the wire material). Cut the part off from the stock you left on the long side with the wire. At the last 1/2 of the cut have it leave .001 stock, so when it comes off you can file that grand off smooth. (Should be able to wire each one in a half an our a piece max.)
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Better idea, make it as one piece, slice it off with the wire when done. One setup vs. 2.
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wrote:

1) Hold in vise, square and machine blanks a) 6.000" -.001" x 3.000" x .750" b) Machine 1/16 Outside Corner radiuses. 2) Hole in vise, stand part on side (6" side up) c) Machine tabs drill and tap to finish dimensions
Soft Jaws http://tinyurl.com/5x7za9
3) Install Soft Jaws, chuck on .100" spacers a) mill pocket 6.001 +.001" L, 3.000" W, .650" deep.
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On Sat, 20 Sep 2008 14:04:32 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I was assuming making it on VMC and not having a vacuum chuck. (Only running two parts I error on the side of caution.)
Op # 1) Hold in vise, square and machine blanks a) 6.000" -.001" x 3.000" x .750" OP # 2) http://tinyurl.com/3q22yf Hold in vise, stand part on side (6" side up) c) Machine tabs, drill and tap 4-40 X 2 Pl
Tooling: Soft Jaws http://tinyurl.com/5x7za9 Install Soft Jaws, chuck on .100" spacers, mill pocket 6.001 +.001" L, 3.000" W, .650" deep. Over cut the corners so part is being clamped on sides not corners, remove spacers.
OP #3) http://tinyurl.com/4n6s7d
a) Drill & ream .157 dia. thru holes , drill & tap 4-40 thru holes, Drill and Tap the two clamp holes as shown. b) Rough and finish bosses & all 1/16 corner radiuses with lead in and outs enough to blend with next (larger diameter) tool. c) Cut wall profile leaving .060" floor. OP #4) http://tinyurl.com/45hom9
When cutting the part out can plan on leaving breakaway tabs to secure the part or pour fusible alloy to a level under the tapped holes on side. I have fusible alloy so I would use it, and as an added safety measure I would place 5/32" dowel pins in the .157 dia. X 5 PL thru holes to secure the part as well. a) Carefully clamp the part and bolt cut out down, install the dowel pins. b) first part of the program will finish the boss on the side 4-40 holes then cut out the part. Tom
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Tom:
    Cripes! You even DREW the thing, top and bottom! Sorry Mr. PV, Tom gets the PRIZE.
    Are you looking for work? I'll send you the next part like this I get. LOL
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wrote:

It was a quick and dirty taking less time than trying to type everything out. Ole lady is on an Alaska Cruse with family, I am home alone (if you don't count 9 pets). I have every thing I need on my laptop so I was sitting here watching the boob-tube drawing it up.
You should see the documentation I send to a shop floor...LOL.....even a near-blind-one-arm-wino should be able to run the job.
Tom
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You mean, you jb-proofed it? Proly he'd screw it up anyway, out of spite.
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PV'd
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Well Bob. I think it's time you tell us what revolutionary way to machine this part you used. Jerry

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Jerry wrote:

I'll bet he used a vaccum chuck and had it done before the wire guys could get their finger out. I know I could have.
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John R. Carroll
www.machiningsolution.com
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Jerry wrote:

Jerry:
    Nothing revolutionary about it, just regular stuff. Actually I used bits and pieces of some of the various replies that have been posted here. I'll start writing it up after I'm done watching the Ryder Cup.
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