OK. A "how would you make that" question. I'm looking at 2 or 3 of
Item one is a plate, 2.5" diameter, that fits on a taper drive and has
the rather odd 6, 1/4" round buttons on the face. How would you make
The second ietm is a drive plate, about 4" diameter, that meshes with
the buttons on the previous item. What's the best way to approach
this? I would guess a boring head on a rotary table but other clever
ideas welcomed. Both are hardeded after machining.
I can't really see why either of those are complex enough to require much
thought on fancy production methods. Item one is simple turning followed by
welding the buttons into place in their location holes. Item two is simple
turning plus a boring op on a rotary table as you say. What else are you
expecting anyone to come up with?
I should have said that since the items will be rotating at up to
6000rpm I won't be welding the buttons on!
Look like some kind of cush drive?
I'd be inclined to align the two and ensure the six sets of holes for the
rubbers (or whatever) and pins are initially bored in line before opening
out the large sockets, probably locating a good fit in the centre of the
flat plate on the shaft on the "driving" plate (your marking out may be more
accurate than mine, though!). If they're turning at 6000 RPM you may want to
leave some surplus material to allow for balancing (prior to hardening!).
As to the pins... shrink fit? Were they to pass fully through the flange I'd
be concerned that there isn't a lot of material surrounding them and you
might get cracking on the outer part of the flange, a high-strength adhesive
might be a better idea (with a couple of thou relief on the pins to allow
for the goo). Would be a sod to machine them in place, so I'm presuming
they're made separately!
Just my tuppence worth!
Not as simple as a cush drive.
It's a "petal" type of drive that allows two components to rotate at
the same velocity when their centre lines are different. In this case
the main drive goes into the plate with the pins and the plate with
the holes is offset. The application is in a vane supercharger. I
suppose the benefit is that it's a very compact arrangement. The pins
and plate are made as one on the original.
Make flange blank thick enough for all features. Attach to RT on mill,
fixture that picks up on 2 holes in flange, or 4 Jaw chuck.
Get the holesaw out a little larger in dia than the spacing between
Center the part to where you want the first pin.
holesaw to approx depth. index and repeat 6x.
This gives the boring head some clearance to work into.
You should have slightly overlapping holesaw cuts, with the overlap in
middle of where a pair of pins are
Attach boring head (boring and facing head would be nice at this
Use boring head with tool backwards, so you are cutting
the pin, not what would be a bore IYSWIM. I think you have to run mill
for this step. 'bore' OD of pin, in a many steps as required. Use a
and you can face the area around it.
For center pin either turn in lathe, again maybe using a boring bar to
the features without coliding with the pins, or use the boring head in
the mill as described.
Bore hole and add keyway.
Does assume the pins are far enough from the center, compared with the
them to clean up the flange properly, else some lathe facing probably
Face to thickness, add flange feature, then
use a close sized holesaw to create the blanks, then bore to size
First part,turn leaving meat on for the buttons,then cnc mill.
Second part,turn and mill.
Cost a few bob to machine prior to hardening.Going to cost more than a
few for grinding after hardening.
Don`t P about making it out of seperate parts.