How would you make that.

I can't really see why either of those are complex enough to require much thought on fancy production methods. Item one is simple turning followed by welding the buttons into place in their location holes. Item two is simple turning plus a boring op on a rotary table as you say. What else are you expecting anyone to come up with?

Thanks Dave

I should have said that since the items will be rotating at up to

6000rpm I won't be welding the buttons on!

Charles

Thanks Dave

I should have said that since the items will be rotating at up to

6000rpm I won't be welding the buttons on!

Charles

=============

Look like some kind of cush drive?

I'd be inclined to align the two and ensure the six sets of holes for the rubbers (or whatever) and pins are initially bored in line before opening out the large sockets, probably locating a good fit in the centre of the flat plate on the shaft on the "driving" plate (your marking out may be more accurate than mine, though!). If they're turning at 6000 RPM you may want to leave some surplus material to allow for balancing (prior to hardening!).

As to the pins... shrink fit? Were they to pass fully through the flange I'd be concerned that there isn't a lot of material surrounding them and you might get cracking on the outer part of the flange, a high-strength adhesive might be a better idea (with a couple of thou relief on the pins to allow for the goo). Would be a sod to machine them in place, so I'm presuming they're made separately!

Just my tuppence worth!

Dave H.

Thanks. Not as simple as a cush drive. It's a "petal" type of drive that allows two components to rotate at the same velocity when their centre lines are different. In this case the main drive goes into the plate with the pins and the plate with the holes is offset. The application is in a vane supercharger. I suppose the benefit is that it's a very compact arrangement. The pins and plate are made as one on the original.

Charles

Could you make the studs from suitably sized socket cap screws threaded into the plate and locked with nuts or a dab of weld? Depends if it has to look pretty or just do the job? Bob

Make flange blank thick enough for all features. Attach to RT on mill, either by fixture that picks up on 2 holes in flange, or 4 Jaw chuck. Get the holesaw out a little larger in dia than the spacing between pins, Center the part to where you want the first pin. holesaw to approx depth. index and repeat 6x. This gives the boring head some clearance to work into. You should have slightly overlapping holesaw cuts, with the overlap in the middle of where a pair of pins are

Attach boring head (boring and facing head would be nice at this point.) Use boring head with tool backwards, so you are cutting the pin, not what would be a bore IYSWIM. I think you have to run mill backwards for this step. 'bore' OD of pin, in a many steps as required. Use a depth stop and you can face the area around it.

For center pin either turn in lathe, again maybe using a boring bar to reach round the features without coliding with the pins, or use the boring head in the mill as described. Bore hole and add keyway.

Does assume the pins are far enough from the center, compared with the distance between them to clean up the flange properly, else some lathe facing probably required.

Face to thickness, add flange feature, then use a close sized holesaw to create the blanks, then bore to size

hth

Dave

Scratch that reply - I should have read the other replies first. Bob

First part,turn leaving meat on for the buttons,then cnc mill. Second part,turn and mill. Cost a few bob to machine prior to hardening.Going to cost more than a few for grinding after hardening. Don`t P about making it out of seperate parts.

Mark.

Thanks chaps.

Dave Sanderson's method is probably the one that I'll take since, as Mark cheekily knows, I don't have a CNC mill !

Charles

.

How many would you like to buy (cnc mills)? :-)

What about your old mate in Long Eaton?

Mark.

The only CNC mills that you'll have for sale wouldn't fit in my garage.

Might discuss it with the Long eaton CNC guru..........

Charles

.

Sell you a bigger garage. :-)

Be a doddle on my Beaver Partsmaster - but if I did it who's going to flail the feild, feed the pigs, and lay the next batch of concrete footings????

AWEM

I would have assumed that the landed gentry of Sussex would have a man to look after the land! lol

Bob

I'll come and flail the field. I drove a tractor once (1966 David Brown as I recall). Have tractors changed much in the last 40 years? ;-)

like this:

You not married then?

Mark.

Don't worry about the age of the tractor - I have a 1955 Fordson Power Major and a 1974 Ford 4000 !

AWEM

Dangerous fighting talk!

AWEM

Free range concrete I trust?? ;-)

Regards, Tony