Fix for halogen lamp socket?

A nice designer desk lamp uses those l.v. (12v) 2-pin halogen lamps. Each pin contact in the socket consists of 2 C-shaped halves that are spring-loaded to hold the pin.

Over time, these socket halves have pitted due to the extreme heat. Connection is now intermittent. If I hold the bulb at an angle (usually twist it in the socket a bit), the bulb goes full brightness. But left on its own, it flickers and buzzes.

I removed the bulb and using a very small rat tail file, cleaned up the contacts, but this was only a temporary fix.

This is a nice (and expensive) lamp that I'd like to keep. What are my choices? I guess I could solder the lamp to the socket components now and whenever the bulb gives out.

Reply to
DaveC
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A replacement socket from a cheap fixture, or a screw connection. The metal bits from a 'kroonsteentje' (the nowadays plastic screw connectors used to connect lamp cords to the ceiling wiring) might work.

Thomas

Reply to
Zak

oxidation and lower the temperature at point of contact.

Yukio YANO

Reply to
Yukio YANO

Soldering is probably not a good idea for many reasons.

You could look around for a (cheap) lamp that takes the same bulb and swap the bulb-holder.

You may be able to build up the contacts again using electroplating. With time, patience and mask resist this can rebuild all sorts of irreplaceable items.

You could make up a couple of new connectors using a lathe (or a bench drill, if pushed) - a brass bar drilled to allow it to be crimped on to the wires and screw-fastened on to the bulb pin is easy to make and vry effective.

You could use a different type of bulb - eg a small automobile halogen type with long wire-ends. You can them move the connection point to somewhere cooler and easier to manage.

HTH

Reply to
Palindr☻me

I'd get a new pin contact assembly.

Reply to
Gary J Tait

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 10:01:16 -0800, Yukio YANO wrote (in article ):

Hmm... don't want to get grease *into* the connection, do I? Silicon grease is an insulator.

Exactly how will this lower the temperature? The grease, as I understand it, is a conductor of heat, but without a heat sink to conduct the heat *to*, grease alone won't help, will it?

Or am I missing something important here?

Reply to
DaveC

Yes, I went through something like this. My local distributor, Marshall Electric had about 7 different ceramic bipost bases with pigtails available. You'll probably need a crimper to make the connection. BTW I repaired film equipment some time ago when these bipost or end connected Halogen lights first came in use. They were always developing problems at the connection point. The only repair was new bases. These were 250, 500, 750 1K or 2 K watts. Richard

Reply to
spudnuty

So is air, but you don't mind having that in your connector.

As long as the grease isn't too thick, the metal will make contact.

The idea is that the pin and socket are heat sinks and the tiny point of contact is the heat source to be sinked. Not much power there, but a large energy density.

Also, reducing oxidation lowers contact resistance and lowers the temperature.

That being said, silicone grease is a band-aid for when you keep having oxidation problems in a connector you can't replace. Far better to have the right connector.

Reply to
Guy Macon

I usually do what you do several times over the life off the fixture, or get a new one if it crumbles apart., but,

Other than the silicone on the contacts to prevent oxidation which is the main culprit there, have you tried re-Tinning the contacts with Solder after you scrape them clean with the file? (some of them pull out of the back and may be accessible) a little flux/good solder:) if the tinning stays put it will lengthen your sockets life. [worse case =3D bulb=

gets solders onto the socket] };-) =AEoy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

I've worked with these fixtures as well. You can clean off the contact points with a dremel and a wire brush. electro plating them can also help. gold plating will stop corrosion and help keep arc build up to a minumim. silver or chrome is a low cost alternative.

Reply to
none

The pin on the lamp will displace enough silicoine to make an electrical connetion. The silicone will keep the metals from oxidising. My worry is the heat melting the silicone enough to cause it to ooze out.

Reply to
Gary J Tait

I would just replace the socket personally, there's a few oddballs, but most of them are reasonably available.

Reply to
James Sweet

Although replacing the socket with a better one is preferred, I do dare to say that I consider heat an unlikely enemy of silicone. If it is liquid enough to get in at room temperature, I expect it be only a little more liquid 500 degrees F or 275 degrees C hotter.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

Coil springs used for contact pressure probably have lost tension due to heat, as well.

Do all of the pin-type sockets use coil springs? How do they keep spring pressure over long periods of heat?

Reply to
DaveC

cool pic., if you pop the spirngs out and re-tin those contacts with good grade solder then slip the springs back i they'll be set for a cool long trouble free ride.

I like preserving good things too }:-)

the silicon idea sounds like it will work to but, only on the bulb pins, otherwise it could be a bit more messy build-up in the long run. =AEoy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

Ref: The Springs

Just stretch them out a tad before you re-insert them.

=AE

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

There is only one answer.

Replace the lamp holder AND the globe. You need super clean contacts with all that current going thru them.

:)

Reply to
Chris

There is only one answer. Replace the lamp holder AND the globe. You need super clean contacts with all that current going thru them. :)

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Chris, what do you have against re-tinning them contacts ? it's cheap easy, effective and good as new. you don't sell them by any chance }:-)

Roy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

The OP has already filed the contacts, they're probably beyond that now. I'd replace the socket and the bulb.

Dave

Reply to
Dave D

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