If you don't need to go underground buy aluminum mud cable, this will easily
be the cheapest solution. Aluminum got a bad name because they tried to use
it in small sizes in residential, with the wrong devices, along with labor
that was clueless about proper techniques. We made a lot of money fixing
jobs done wrong in aluminum, and I have never seen a properly done aluminum
Gary H. Lucas
As for my sub-panel and 3 phase panel things, I've just ordered a 500'
spool of #1 aluminum wire. It is _WAY_ less expensive than copper. I
will be certain to read up and make certain that I bond everything
correctly, use anti-corrosion goo and make certain all connections
are torqued down properly. The RPC and all of the machine loads will
be made using some copper THHN that I already have.
I've acquired a Cutler Hammer 3BR1224L125 125 amp 3 phase circuit
breaker load center panel and now I need to find some CH BR3xx plug/
stab-in breakers. 3 pole breakers are pricey new!
Anybody have some Cutler Hammer compatible breakers like these:
Here's how to do the aluminum connections. First, do NOT nick the strands
when stripping the insulation! The nicked strands break right off. Second,
wire brush the bare wire with a stainless wirebrush. Aluminum oxide, unlike
copper oxide is one of the best insulators known. Third, use an antioxidant
compound, Penetrox is the brand we used to use. It is conductive, so don't
get it on the insulation. Fourth, tighten the setscrews firmly. Fifth, and
VERY important, tighten the setscrews again the next day. Aluminum creeps,
and they will often be loose by the next day. Pretty stable after that, but
checking once a year or so is just smart. Finally, aluminum connections
come loose if they are overloaded, because the aluminum expands a lot and
squeezes out like toothpaste. So don't be a cheap ass and overload it, use
the right size.
Gary H. Lucas
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