Rotary phase converter: local ground or all the way to the panel?

The GFCIs look grounded to my tester. I haven't bothered to open them up and look if there is a ground wire in there. What I was trying to say is that all of the "normal" (non-GFCI) 3 prong outlets are just hot and neutral with no ground wire in there. Landlord did the cheap thing, although I don't know of any easy and inexpensive way to retrofit a ground in to a lot of outlets (say 20+).

As for my sub-panel and 3 phase panel things, I've just ordered a 500' spool of #1 aluminum wire. It is _WAY_ less expensive than copper. I will be certain to read up and make certain that I bond everything correctly, use anti-corrosion goo and make certain all connections are torqued down properly. The RPC and all of the machine loads will be made using some copper THHN that I already have.

I've acquired a Cutler Hammer 3BR1224L125 125 amp 3 phase circuit breaker load center panel and now I need to find some CH BR3xx plug/ stab-in breakers. 3 pole breakers are pricey new! Anybody have some Cutler Hammer compatible breakers like these: BR360 BR350 BR340 BR330 BR320 BR315 BR310

Thanks!

Reply to
rpseguin
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As for my sub-panel and 3 phase panel things, I've just ordered a 500' spool of #1 aluminum wire. It is _WAY_ less expensive than copper. I will be certain to read up and make certain that I bond everything correctly, use anti-corrosion goo and make certain all connections are torqued down properly. The RPC and all of the machine loads will be made using some copper THHN that I already have.

I've acquired a Cutler Hammer 3BR1224L125 125 amp 3 phase circuit breaker load center panel and now I need to find some CH BR3xx plug/ stab-in breakers. 3 pole breakers are pricey new! Anybody have some Cutler Hammer compatible breakers like these: BR360 BR350 BR340 BR330 BR320 BR315 BR310

Thanks!

Reply to
rpseguin

Suggest try Ebay...

Reply to
PrecisioNmachinisT

Here's how to do the aluminum connections. First, do NOT nick the strands when stripping the insulation! The nicked strands break right off. Second, wire brush the bare wire with a stainless wirebrush. Aluminum oxide, unlike copper oxide is one of the best insulators known. Third, use an antioxidant compound, Penetrox is the brand we used to use. It is conductive, so don't get it on the insulation. Fourth, tighten the setscrews firmly. Fifth, and VERY important, tighten the setscrews again the next day. Aluminum creeps, and they will often be loose by the next day. Pretty stable after that, but checking once a year or so is just smart. Finally, aluminum connections come loose if they are overloaded, because the aluminum expands a lot and squeezes out like toothpaste. So don't be a cheap ass and overload it, use the right size.

Gary H. Lucas

Reply to
Gary H. Lucas

I'm not absolutely certain of the full nuances[+] of "plug connected device" w.r.t. CEC or NEC, but strictly speaking I don't think NEC or CEC applies in this case.

_However_, UL and CSA do. In particular, 2 two pin to 3 socket adapter (without GFCI) will not pass CSA, and is illegal to offer for sale in Canada. I do not believe such a device will pass UL either, but UL doesn't have power-of-law as CSA (or legislatively equivalent) does in Canada.

Conversely, if it has non-fraudulent UL or CSA markings on it, it will be legal unless overruled by local ordinance.

[+] I'm meaning edge-cases here. 2->3 plug adapters that simply make the third pin connect via pigtail to the outlet cover screw are illegal and covered by both NEC and CEC I believe. As the ground wire is screwed on, I think they're considered "permanent wiring". Or something. I dunno for sure. They're certainly illegal in Canada because they won't be granted CSA approval.
Reply to
Chris Lewis

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