I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.
My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.
What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
If it's like this cr*p they sell at Home Despot, it's copper clad
steel core with an _aluminum_ braid shield:-
That would explain the copper-like heat conduction that you're
I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
Yes it's that crap.
Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.
When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.
Crimps in hand...
yeah stainless steel braid, aluminium shield and a copper-plated steel
core. most of the RG6 I've used is like that.
a solderable F connector socket is probably the best way to terminate it.
Give up! If you can't give up spot weld it to some tinned copper.
Well, what does it feel like?
Steel wire feels very stiff. Grab a leaded component out of the box and
ponder the leads; they're probably tin plated steel (check with a magnet).
Most resistors, capacitors and diodes are. Some smaller ceramic caps have
thicker, softer copper leads; find some if you can.
Aluminum wire is very soft, floppy stuff. It is much softer than copper,
than copper is of steel. If that's what it is... oh well.
As for soldering practice... the old saw about "apply solder to the
opposite side of the joint" is complete BS. Forget about it. Don't try
soldering as you were told, make the solder happy and good joints will
follow. First goal, get the part hot: hold the iron on the part, and
apply solder right beside the iron, or to it, so the iron heats and wets
what it's touching. On a braid, solder will spread and soon the joint
will accept solder from all sides.
The entire CATV industry is built on crimped connections. It's
amazing, the amount of misinformation in this thread. The braid is
nothing more than drain wires, in continuous contact with the foil
shield. It doesn't have to carry any power, so the random contact
points all add up to a low resistance connection. As long as water
doesn't get into the coax, it will likely outlast the installer. The
.750", .500" and other sizes of hardline used is aluminum for both
conductors. The .750" can carry 30A @ 60 VAC without problems.