Bearded Axe Head Forged from a Tie Plate and Old File

Nov 01, 2026 Last reply: 2 minutes ago 3 Replies
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The toughest part of this build has to be opening the eye without tearing the workpiece apart. Advoko MAKES dealt with it in stages: a row of holes drilled down the center line on a drill press, a cold chisel used to pre-notch along those holes, then a hammer and chisel to split and open the slot. Driving a tapered drift, made from two welded pins, into the hot slot finished the conical eye. That sequence seems like a patient, controlled way to keep the bar from cracking.



The head itself was forged from a railroad tie plate, giving a wide, bearded blade meant for woodworking. The maker started by cutting a rectangular bar from the old steel pad using an angle grinder mounted on a DIY linear sliding jig, which looks like a neat way to keep a long cut straight. After heating the billet in a DIY mini gas forge, the cheeks, poll and blade blank got extensive hammer shaping on an anvil.



The bimetal part is what stands out for me. A groove was cut along the front edge with an angle grinder, and a high-carbon steel insert taken from an old Soviet-era metal file was clamped in and bonded with shielded metal arc welding. Heating then moved to a homemade bucket coal forge to draw out the cutting edge and beard, and maker marks were stamped into the hot metal. A rebar handle was welded to one end for manipulation during the hot work.



The edge was selectively hardened by quenching in warm oil. What remains open is the finish: grinding is still ahead, along with carving a handle from aspen with carbon-fiber reinforcement. I am curious how that reinforced carve turns out.



Project by Advoko MAKES. Watch it on their YouTube channel:

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Using the file steel only for the insert strikes me as the smart move here. The tie plate body stays tough while the edge gets the high-carbon steel, and welding the seam rather than relying on a forge weld seems like a safer bet for a first-time bimetal joint. The trade-off is that weld line sitting right where the chopping happens, so I would want to watch how it wears.

Question about the drift: it says two welded pins were used to form the conical eye. Were both pins the same diameter stacked together, or ground to different tapers before welding? I am wondering how the combined shape transitions from the slot size up to the full socket without galling in the hot steel.

For the upcoming aspen handle, one variation worth considering: skip straight grain entirely and orient the grain at a slight angle to the eye, since the bearded blade will see chopping loads from odd angles. With the carbon-fiber reinforcement already planned, the weakened grain orientation should still hold up fine, and it often survives twisting shocks better than dead-straight grain does.

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